Recent Topics
Seattle Arco's now accept credit cards
by Apollo14
34 minutes 49 seconds ago
Lubrizol CVT Additive System
by The Critic
Today at 02:40 AM
California to ban plastic bags
by Merkava_4
Today at 02:12 AM
Best bbq in tn?
by ram_man
Yesterday at 11:57 PM
Oil for new car
by massparanoia
Yesterday at 11:22 PM
Mixing Mobil 1 High Mileage with Mobil 1 AFE?
by lukejo
Yesterday at 11:21 PM
Beware of energy guide label inconsistencies; 2014
by JHZR2
Yesterday at 11:14 PM
funny website
by friendly_jacek
Yesterday at 10:43 PM
120K Mile 6G74 - Mobil 1 or Shell Ultra?
by Spetz
Yesterday at 09:54 PM
My evening OCI tonight in photos
by volk06
Yesterday at 09:22 PM
Push Mowers won't start/run--advice?
by lukejo
Yesterday at 09:12 PM
1/4" Drive Cordless Electric Ratchet
by john_pifer
Yesterday at 09:10 PM
Newest Members
Trashman, massparanoia, Tdog02, Helliar, jrmitch
51147 Registered Users
Who's Online
26 registered (Apollo14, Bandito440, Char Baby, chrisri, Alfa_Hadera, 1 invisible), 539 Guests and 201 Spiders online.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Stats
51147 Members
64 Forums
218560 Topics
3446300 Posts

Max Online: 2862 @ 07/07/14 03:10 PM
Donate to BITOG

Page 2 of 5 < 1 2 3 4 5 >
Topic Options
#3114937 - 09/04/13 06:10 PM Re: Seizing caliper? [Re: cb_13]
OVERKILL Offline


Registered: 04/28/08
Posts: 25941
Loc: Ontario, Canada
Originally Posted By: cb_13
I agree with Astro. I have seen the hoses cause a similar issue. Even if you replace the caliper I would also replace the hose if it's a high mileage vehicle.


It isn't a high mileage vehicle.
_________________________
Network Engineer
02 Expedition
01 BMW ///M5
05 Forester XT

Top
#3114939 - 09/04/13 06:11 PM Re: Seizing caliper? [Re: JamesBond]
OVERKILL Offline


Registered: 04/28/08
Posts: 25941
Loc: Ontario, Canada
Originally Posted By: JamesBond
If you drive it around the block easy a few times, is there a difference in temperature of the rotors after you park it?

I assume this is a special car that doesn't get driven daily. Find a safe place and give the brakes a bit of a workout and see if that helps.

I rebuilt a front caliper that had been dragging on an e28 535i recently. It was just cleaning the piston and bore, and replacing the seal and boot. The brakes had been bled recently but there was still a lot of gunk down in the caliper. I thought it would be difficult and was kind of timid about it but once you take it all apart its actually pretty simple. Watch some videos on how its done.

I would get a rebuild kit from BMW or from the caliper builder and give it a shot.


It is daily driven, I put a lot of miles on it actually.

I was unaware that BMW sold caliper rebuilt kits! If they do, then we are good to go. I've done calipers before, just didn't think BMW sold the necessary parts.
_________________________
Network Engineer
02 Expedition
01 BMW ///M5
05 Forester XT

Top
#3114943 - 09/04/13 06:13 PM Re: Seizing caliper? [Re: outdoorsman310]
OVERKILL Offline


Registered: 04/28/08
Posts: 25941
Loc: Ontario, Canada
Originally Posted By: outdoorsman310
when do you hear the squeak? low speed, high speed, affected by turning? do you hear it when applying parking brake instead of regular brake? check that the pads are worn evenly and the caliper and pads slide freely. the flex hose could be blocked inside as well. does that have tapered rotors? that has lug bolts instead of studs right? you might want to tighten a few on the rotor to ensure that it is flat on the hub when rotating the wheel.


- The squeak is constant, and happens at any speed.

- It is not affected by turning.

- The parking brake does nothing to it, as it is in the right front wheel

- The flex hoses LOOK in good shape, no signs of dry rot, but I guess this is a possibility

- No, the car does not have tapered rotors

- Yes, it has lug bolts. But also has bolts that hold the rotor to the hub
_________________________
Network Engineer
02 Expedition
01 BMW ///M5
05 Forester XT

Top
#3114948 - 09/04/13 06:21 PM Re: Seizing caliper? [Re: OVERKILL]
outdoorsman310 Offline


Registered: 08/26/13
Posts: 113
Loc: DE
is the backing plate contacting the rotor? pad shims could be falling off too. if you cant push the piston back easily but it pushes back easily when the bleeder is opened that would indicate a restriction in the line.

Top
#3114996 - 09/04/13 06:59 PM Re: Seizing caliper? [Re: outdoorsman310]
OVERKILL Offline


Registered: 04/28/08
Posts: 25941
Loc: Ontario, Canada
Originally Posted By: outdoorsman310
is the backing plate contacting the rotor? pad shims could be falling off too. if you cant push the piston back easily but it pushes back easily when the bleeder is opened that would indicate a restriction in the line.


No, nothing is contacting the rotors. Pad shims are perfect, I had the works apart yesterday as per my OP.

I'm hesitant to crack the bleeders on these as I'm worried about breaking them.....
_________________________
Network Engineer
02 Expedition
01 BMW ///M5
05 Forester XT

Top
#3115013 - 09/04/13 07:09 PM Re: Seizing caliper? [Re: OVERKILL]
Tegger Offline


Registered: 03/20/06
Posts: 1394
Loc: Canada
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
I don't think I'll have time for that in the next few days however, as I have a VERY busy month coming up unfortunately

I kinda wish you'd waited until you actually had time to carry out the advice you're receiving.

Some Googling indicates that your M5 has 2-piston floating calipers. This complicates things greatly, for now you have twice the probability of a seized piston on either side. Plus you have the standard floating-caliper bugbears of seized pads and seized pins

And you definitely need to check for trueness of the rotor. I see your rotors are slip-on over the hub. This adds yet another variable: rust buildup between rotor and hub. This can make the rotor wobble as it spins. To confirm the presence of that, you need a dial indicator (cheap Grizzly one will do).

Pistons can rust (or are yours stainless?) and old brake-fluid can cause really thick gum to build up. You MUST check for all the above things or you're wasting your time and everybody else's.

Considering that you live in the Rust Belt, and considering the age and the unknown maintenance history of the vehicle, anything anybody tells you now is a guess. You need to do what I've said, and actually look at the parts in question the way I said to.
_________________________
1991 Acura Integra - 414,467 miles - Mobil 1 5W-30, Honda OEM filter - **SOLD**
2013 Toyota RAV4 - 15,000 miles - Toyota 0W-20, Toyota filter

Top
#3115024 - 09/04/13 07:16 PM Re: Seizing caliper? [Re: Tegger]
OVERKILL Offline


Registered: 04/28/08
Posts: 25941
Loc: Ontario, Canada
Originally Posted By: Tegger
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
I don't think I'll have time for that in the next few days however, as I have a VERY busy month coming up unfortunately

I kinda wish you'd waited until you actually had time to carry out the advice you're receiving.

Some Googling indicates that your M5 has 2-piston floating calipers. This complicates things greatly, for now you have twice the probability of a seized piston on either side. Plus you have the standard floating-caliper bugbears of seized pads and seized pins

And you definitely need to check for trueness of the rotor. I see your rotors are slip-on over the hub. This adds yet another variable: rust buildup between rotor and hub. This can make the rotor wobble as it spins. To confirm the presence of that, you need a dial indicator (cheap Grizzly one will do).

Pistons can rust (or are yours stainless?) and old brake-fluid can cause really thick gum to build up. You MUST check for all the above things or you're wasting your time and everybody else's.

Considering that you live in the Rust Belt, and considering the age and the unknown maintenance history of the vehicle, anything anybody tells you now is a guess. You need to do what I've said, and actually look at the parts in question the way I said to.


- The Car has single piston calipers. The next generation M5 after mine has twin-piston.

- As in the original post, I had the caliper OFF the car. The pins slide freely and do NOT BIND.

- The pads move freely, and I cleaned and lubricated their contact points, as indicated in the opening post.

- I have a dial indicator, I'll dig it up.

- The hub and mating surface are clean, I checked that. They were off recently.

- The pistons are rusty as heck inside where the pad clips slide in, so I'm going to go out on a limb here and say they aren't stainless wink

- I've looked at everything except the inside of the caliper, because I can't take it apart without risking making the vehicle undriveable. That's WHY I created this thread, to get some idea BEFORE I dug in any further so that I'm not wasting MY TIME by giving myself a vehicle I can't drive while waiting for replacement parts. I'm sorry if you took this as wasting your time and that of other members, that was not my intention.
_________________________
Network Engineer
02 Expedition
01 BMW ///M5
05 Forester XT

Top
#3115045 - 09/04/13 07:37 PM Re: Seizing caliper? [Re: OVERKILL]
andyd Offline


Registered: 09/25/04
Posts: 3711
Loc: Marshfield , MA
It is NOT the brake hoses. If the BMW was 20 yrs old, maybe. I am running on original hoses.

I have developed a process of fixing sticky calipers.First, I free up the bleeder. Then, I take the caliper off the carrier. Next, I slowly pump the brake pedal to ease the piston out until I can grab it with pliers. I pull the piston out and wire wheel the rust off its top. If there are any corrosion blisters on it, I file them smooth. I use Syl- Glyde to re-assemble. I make sure the bleeder is clean . I use a 6" C clamp and a hammer to start the piston back in. Twist, twist, tap, tap. The piston seal is at the top, corrosion in the barrel wont affect it. Bleed the system and you're done. The rubber parts are fine to re-use, so I don't even bother with the rebuild kits any more.
_________________________
2 1988 BMW 528e 20w50 dino, STP filter

1994 Ranger ,600$ Rat, 5w30 dino, STP filter

Top
#3115058 - 09/04/13 07:55 PM Re: Seizing caliper? [Re: OVERKILL]
nitehawk55 Offline


Registered: 04/01/10
Posts: 1042
Loc: Ontario , Canada
Getting any pedal pulse ?

Regardless if you had them done 6 months ago , one session of some hard braking that gets a rotor hot enough and it can warp .
_________________________
05 Ford Five Hundred AWD 3.0 DOHC V6 CVT tranny

Top
#3115065 - 09/04/13 07:58 PM Re: Seizing caliper? [Re: OVERKILL]
Warstud Offline


Registered: 09/02/05
Posts: 2759
Loc: MIchigan
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
It is like the caliper is putting just a bit of pressure on the pad and it shouldn't be.


There designed to put a bit of pressure on the pad. That's why the wheel spins so much easier when the caliper is removed. You just need to spin both wheels with the same force and count the revolutions.

Top
#3115074 - 09/04/13 08:03 PM Re: Seizing caliper? [Re: OVERKILL]
Tegger Offline


Registered: 03/20/06
Posts: 1394
Loc: Canada
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
- The pistons are rusty as heck inside where the pad clips slide in,

Then there is a very high probability that there is rust on the piston under where the dust boot covers it. And very likely gum from the old brake fluid as well. Something like this:


Yes, that's a Honda rear brake, but the principle is identical. Rust/gum causes the piston to stick and refuse to retract as it should. If you can get a Channel-Lok onto the piston, rotate/pull it out of its bore until you can peel the boot back. At that point any rust/gum will become abundantly evident.

BUT... you need to inspect everything properly, and check the rotor for runout with that dial gauge. With your car's age and lack of correct servicing, anything is possible. This is the sort of job garages hate, but that somebody like me would find to be fun.
_________________________
1991 Acura Integra - 414,467 miles - Mobil 1 5W-30, Honda OEM filter - **SOLD**
2013 Toyota RAV4 - 15,000 miles - Toyota 0W-20, Toyota filter

Top
#3115083 - 09/04/13 08:06 PM Re: Seizing caliper? [Re: OVERKILL]
GSCJR Offline


Registered: 01/20/13
Posts: 670
Loc: Ontario, Canada
Apply Syl-Glyde to the contact points between the caliper and the pads too. Specifically, on the inboard pad backing where the piston makes contact and on the outboard pad backing where the caliper fingers make contact. Also, IIRC your application contains a metal anti-rattle clip which maintains pressure on the caliper. Lubricate its contact points as well. HTH.
_________________________
03 3.0L 1MZ-FE GTX 5w-20-Defense DL3600-192 KM
10 3.5L 2GR-FE GTX 5w-20-Fram CH9972-98 KM

Top
#3115090 - 09/04/13 08:09 PM Re: Seizing caliper? [Re: OVERKILL]
tig1 Offline


Registered: 01/03/09
Posts: 9757
Loc: Illinois
The brake hose can look good, but the damage is inside the hose and can actually prevent all the pressure from releasing. Bad hoses cause a lot of premature pad failures.
_________________________
2007 Ford Fusion 141,000 miles
M1 0-20
2007 Ford Focus 127,000 miles
M1 0-20
10,000 mile OCIs on both engines
M1 ATF
M1 10-30 in all OPE

Top
#3115134 - 09/04/13 08:39 PM Re: Seizing caliper? [Re: GSCJR]
Tegger Offline


Registered: 03/20/06
Posts: 1394
Loc: Canada
Originally Posted By: GSCJR
Apply Syl-Glyde to the contact points between the caliper and the pads too. Specifically, on the inboard pad backing where the piston makes contact and on the outboard pad backing where the caliper fingers make contact.

Sil-Glyde is a bad choice for the applications you mention. Molykote M-77 is the very best stuff to use in this case.
_________________________
1991 Acura Integra - 414,467 miles - Mobil 1 5W-30, Honda OEM filter - **SOLD**
2013 Toyota RAV4 - 15,000 miles - Toyota 0W-20, Toyota filter

Top
#3115141 - 09/04/13 08:46 PM Re: Seizing caliper? [Re: GSCJR]
OVERKILL Offline


Registered: 04/28/08
Posts: 25941
Loc: Ontario, Canada
Originally Posted By: GSCJR
Apply Syl-Glyde to the contact points between the caliper and the pads too. Specifically, on the inboard pad backing where the piston makes contact and on the outboard pad backing where the caliper fingers make contact. Also, IIRC your application contains a metal anti-rattle clip which maintains pressure on the caliper. Lubricate its contact points as well. HTH.


That's all already been done yesterday smile However I used the Permatex synthetic brake lube, not Syl-Glyde.
_________________________
Network Engineer
02 Expedition
01 BMW ///M5
05 Forester XT

Top
Page 2 of 5 < 1 2 3 4 5 >