'06 Civic Stripped Oil Drain Plug

[Gito]

Oh yeah. If you tap with M14 1.25 then remember to use the correct drain plug and in this case you would use an M14x1.25 drain bolt. Quickly approaching 500,000 miles on my Honda Civic. Original oil pan will need a new gasket soon, finally.

 

[Win]

I stripped one on an Xj6. They have a huge drain plug that is easily overtorqued.

I took my old plug out, took it to a machine shop, and had them drill it out and thread a new plug into it. I then chased the threads on the pan, put the old plug in secured with red ( I think) Loctite, and let it sit up for about twenty four hours.

Changing oil was a two wrench affair after that, but it didn't leak and was easier than changing the pan.

I thought about retapping it, but the angle was dicey and I didn't want a leaker. Cost about ten bucks.

 

[TFB1]

Originally Posted By: Win
I stripped one on an Xj6. They have a huge drain plug that is easily overtorqued.

I took my old plug out, took it to a machine shop, and had them drill it out and thread a new plug into it. I then chased the threads on the pan, put the old plug in secured with red ( I think) Loctite, and let it sit up for about twenty four hours.

Changing oil was a two wrench affair after that, but it didn't leak and was easier than changing the pan.

I thought about retapping it, but the angle was dicey and I didn't want a leaker. Cost about ten bucks.


That no doubt has many BITOGers convulsing, can't be a proper repair..

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: The_Eric
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
All this talk of rubber expanding plugs and oversize plugs is silly

Do you know this guys capabilities or his tool box?
Come over and swap a W body 3.8 or a Northstar and lots of other pans out and then tell me how silly it is.
10hrs on a N* under ideal conditions with the tools and a lift double that on your back.

Swapping the pan is fine if its easy enough to get at but there is nothing wrong with an oversize piggyback plug or re thread job if its done properly.
The correct repair depends on a lot of things, if its tight, doesn't leak and you can change the oil its correct.

Its easy to armchair repairs but consider the job not just the price of the pan. what happens if the exhaust manifold studs break then you have the next fiasco ditto lots of other things that can and do go sideways on a job like this.


Trav, you're right about me not knowing his skill level or how well prepared he is tool wise.

There are several forum members that have no business simply changing their own oil, let alone anything more complicated and yet they ask for and receive all sorts of advice. I recommended what felt was the best course (and I would do it to my own car too) and you recommended what you felt was the best course of action - and would likely practice what you preach. It's up to the o.p. to decide what's right for him. I did overstress my opinion, and even though I feel it's the correct repair, I shouldn't have stated it like I did.

You needn't lecture me about oil pans on W bodies (I've done several too) or the Northstar engine... I've had the unfortunate luck to have had to do one of those as well... On stands, on my back.

I too, probably should have added a disclaimer, but I thought that the job was well within the capabilities of most DIYers. It's pretty straightforward, but you do have to unbolt the steering and the subframe...which I personally don't think is a terribly big deal:

http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/mechanical-problems-technical-chat/45030-diy-how-remove-oil-pan.html

Book time on it is 3.1 hours.

 

[901Memphis]

How about a Fumoto valve + some JB Weld? Then you stop the leak and don't have to fiddle with the drain plug anymore?

http://www.amazon.com/Fumoto-F-106-Engine-Drain-Valve/dp/B003OXUPOQ