Bad stabilizer link?

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Ontario, Canada
2006 Civic.
Sometimes going over abrupt bumps on the road, I would hear this metallic thunk that seems to be coming from front end.
However, if I am driving fast(say highway) and go over normal bumps, everything seems fine.

Jacked up front end and checked for play in tierods/ball joints by wiggling wheels. There are none.

Grabbed onto stabilizer links and try wiggling, didn't move much. However, I noticed the two sides don't quite look the same. I was wondering if it could be the possible problem. I hear it more on the driver side.

Here's the passenger side:
20130829_234447_1.jpg


Here's the driver side:
20130829_234550_1.jpg


Is it my imagination or does it look like driver side is a bit bent? Should both sides look identical and like passenger side?
 
Good chance you're onto something. I replaced one link once and just made the noise worse. The replacement part was not oem so its dimensions were slightly off.

one way to determine if link is source of noise is to disconnect one side, test drive and see if sound is gone.

Another possible source of your noise is control arm bushings.
 
Originally Posted By: Brule
Good chance you're onto something. I replaced one link once and just made the noise worse. The replacement part was not oem so its dimensions were slightly off.

one way to determine if link is source of noise is to disconnect one side, test drive and see if sound is gone.

Another possible source of your noise is control arm bushings.


How do I tell if control arm bushing is bad? Will I notice cracks?

I am debating if I should go with Moog stabilizer links as they are much beefier and it's about $20 more than OEM. Will they generate noise just because they're not OEM?

http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Moog-K80768

http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Moog-K80769
 
Originally Posted By: wing0
Originally Posted By: Brule
Good chance you're onto something. I replaced one link once and just made the noise worse. The replacement part was not oem so its dimensions were slightly off.

one way to determine if link is source of noise is to disconnect one side, test drive and see if sound is gone.

Another possible source of your noise is control arm bushings.


How do I tell if control arm bushing is bad? Will I notice cracks?


It's not a bushing, so I've been told...it's more a seal....and here's my Camry's that's going, the one on the right (RF)...to be replaced in the next 6 months...I don't hear any clanking yet...you should replace the front/rear in pairs

u32l.jpg
 
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Originally Posted By: wing0
Originally Posted By: Brule
Good chance you're onto something. I replaced one link once and just made the noise worse. The replacement part was not oem so its dimensions were slightly off.

one way to determine if link is source of noise is to disconnect one side, test drive and see if sound is gone.

Another possible source of your noise is control arm bushings.


How do I tell if control arm bushing is bad? Will I notice cracks?

I am debating if I should go with Moog stabilizer links as they are much beefier and it's about $20 more than OEM. Will they generate noise just because they're not OEM?

http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Moog-K80768

http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Moog-K80769


Get Deeza. I put new Deeza links all the way around on my 99 Avalon and I have been very happy. Also just put on Deeza inner and outer tie rod ends on right side. Do some checking here and you will find a consensus that Moog quality is sketchy at best and everyone has been pleased with Deeza.
 
My Accord was also clunking similar to your description. Very little slop in the link joints was apparent. Replaced the end links with Moog and the problem is gone. I pried apart the old joints in order to get a visegrip on the shaft so the nut would come off.

FWIW the new Moog links had grease fittings.
 
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There doesn't have to be much play - sometimes even none that you can feel yourself, in order for it to turn into a big clunk. It can reverberate through the entire vehicle pretty easily.
 
When replacing the link/rods, you may notice the allen wrench socket on the end of the bolt, (see photo above), that needs to be held/locked while removing the nut around it.
 
You know that Moog and Deeza makes end links that use wrenches instead of that allen wrench which will strip out when you try to remove the old ones. That and some Deeza and maybe the Moog ones might be regreasable as well.
 
Originally Posted By: KitaCam
When replacing the link/rods, you may notice the allen wrench socket on the end of the bolt, (see photo above), that needs to be held/locked while removing the nut around it.

Problem is you cant use a socket with an allen wrench stuck in the end of the bolt. On some Hondas you cant use a box end wrench because the nut is recessed in the control arm, so you have to get creative, especially if its rusty.
 
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Originally Posted By: zzyzzx
You know that Moog and Deeza makes end links that use wrenches instead of that allen wrench which will strip out when you try to remove the old ones. That and some Deeza and maybe the Moog ones might be regreasable as well.


The moog I'm looking at is greaseable.
I was hoping this would last me longer.
 
Originally Posted By: wing0

I am debating if I should go with Moog stabilizer links as they are much beefier and it's about $20 more than OEM. Will they generate noise just because they're not OEM?


No...just replace the links as a pair was my point...not just one side. Aftermarket should be as good or better.
 
Originally Posted By: hsd
Originally Posted By: KitaCam
When replacing the link/rods, you may notice the allen wrench socket on the end of the bolt, (see photo above), that needs to be held/locked while removing the nut around it.

Problem is you cant use a socket with an allen wrench stuck in the end of the bolt. On some Hondas you cant use a box end wrench because the nut is recessed in the control arm, so you have to get creative, especially if its rusty.


In the photo above you can use a box wrench, open ended or not....
 
If you have any trouble just cut the nut off with a 4.5 inch cutoff wheel.

Takes more time to think about than to do, really.
 
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