Hyundai says 0w-20 and 0w-30 would void warranty..

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rikstaker

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Hi, I wish an expert can answer this.

I was wondering what would be the best oil viscosity to use for maximum protection in my Sonata GLS 2012 2.4 GDI, The owners manual is not clear, says 5w20 or 5w30, but 5w20 for better fuel economy. I am more concerned about protection, so I was wondering what grade is better for all year round. Also, will there be any warranty issues if I use 0w-20 or 0w-30 oils as these provide better cold temperature performance and same operating temperature viscosity? I live in Toronto Ontario.

Reply:

hank you for taking the time to contact Hyundai Auto Canada. We apologize for the delay in response.

We understand that you are inquiring about the best oil grade recommended by the manufacturer for your Hyundai vehicle. We had the opportunity to review your inquiry with our technical assistance team which informed us that, 5w20 would be the best oil for your vehicle as per a manufacturer recommendation. The oil grade may not be clear in the owner’s manual but our engineers informed us that the best recommended grade can be found on the cap of your oil tank.

You also inquired if there would be any repercussions to your warranty coverage if you were to use 0w-20 and 0w-30 oil and our understanding is any damages to your vehicle caused by the use of other products and/or grades recommended by the manufacturer would lead to our warranty department not being able to provide any assistance with the repairs of the said part.

We invite you to contact our customer relations department at 1-888-216-2626 if you have any other queries.

Cordially,


Christopher

Hyundai Auto Canada
Customer Relations Coordinator
75 Frontenac dr
Markham, ON
Canada
L3T 7P9
 
I'd stay on with 5W30 or 5W20 throughout warranty period if I were you, and keep all the oil change receipts just in case.

Past warranty period: feel free to experiment with whatever you like.

Q.
 
It is what it is.

Toronto climate will play well with 5W-20. Best bet is to source a "lighter" 5W-20, use that with OEM filter and sleep well at night.

I own a 2013 Sonata 2.4L and use 5W-20 with it.
 
Sounds like you got your answer already: 5W-20 for maximum protection of your warranty. Why would they tell you the warranty could be invalidated by using 0W-20 if they thought it protected your engine better? What is it you want to protect the engine from? If 0W products make you feel better and you're OK with the (probably very tiny) risk that they could deny an engine warranty claim if you have a problem and they do the necessary testing to discover your non-recommended oil grade, then use 0W-20 or 0W-30 and rest easy. Your engine will probably be perfectly healthy for a very long time no matter what you choose, and if it ever does fail, it will probably have nothing to do with your engine oil anyway. More miles, less worry. These are trivial details. The engineering has already been done for you.
 
Originally Posted By: accent2012
Go ahead and use what you want, because what the heck does Hyundai know about their engines and oil?


If there is an engine oil related issue, they will ask for the oil change receipts which will clearly show weights and filters used.
 
Originally Posted By: J. A. Rizzo
Sounds like you got your answer already: 5W-20 for maximum protection of your warranty. Why would they tell you the warranty could be invalidated by using 0W-20 if they thought it protected your engine better? What is it you want to protect the engine from? If 0W products make you feel better and you're OK with the (probably very tiny) risk that they could deny an engine warranty claim if you have a problem and they do the necessary testing to discover your non-recommended oil grade, then use 0W-20 or 0W-30 and rest easy. Your engine will probably be perfectly healthy for a very long time no matter what you choose, and if it ever does fail, it will probably have nothing to do with your engine oil anyway. More miles, less worry. These are trivial details. The engineering has already been done for you.


2.4L engines have a history of a spun 2nd crankshaft bearing. Oil changes would be the first question by the dealer.

Why risk it?
 
Originally Posted By: Danno
Originally Posted By: J. A. Rizzo
Sounds like you got your answer already: 5W-20 for maximum protection of your warranty. Why would they tell you the warranty could be invalidated by using 0W-20 if they thought it protected your engine better? What is it you want to protect the engine from? If 0W products make you feel better and you're OK with the (probably very tiny) risk that they could deny an engine warranty claim if you have a problem and they do the necessary testing to discover your non-recommended oil grade, then use 0W-20 or 0W-30 and rest easy. Your engine will probably be perfectly healthy for a very long time no matter what you choose, and if it ever does fail, it will probably have nothing to do with your engine oil anyway. More miles, less worry. These are trivial details. The engineering has already been done for you.


2.4L engines have a history of a spun 2nd crankshaft bearing. Oil changes would be the first question by the dealer.

Why risk it?


Never heard that before about spun bearings in the 2.4L GDI engines, and they've been around since 2007 I think...

I was being sarcastic in my previous post. Why ask a question about using something not stated in the manual at a company known for being warranty sticklers. These aren't racing engines, so I wouldn't try using products not mentioned in the manual, as far as what types of fluids can be used.
 
Last edited:
Use the oem spec and keep your warranty. You've,even,got 2 choices. How easy can it be?
 
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Funny how some think that anything without a "0" before the "w" will somehow wear out the engine.
Just because select few on this board choose to praise 0wXX oils not matter what, does not mean that it's all actually relevant in real life.


I think some people don't even understand what the 0W really means in comparison to 5W anyway. There's a lot of rampant speculation and a herd mentality and almost no practical results. No way would I stray from Hyundai's recommended oil grade during the warranty period. And I agree that 0W-XX products are probably totally unnecessary unless spec'd for the engine. Use the least expensive 5W-20 API SN oil and a decent filter and quit worrying about it. If there's a spun bearing issue with the engines, oil type and grade probably aren't going to prevent it. You can't make up for a design problem with fluids, and if you could, then Hyundai would change their recommendation so they wouldn't have the warranty claims.
 
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Funny how some think that anything without a "0" before the "w" will somehow wear out the engine.


Who's every actually made that claim?

Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Just because select few on this board choose to praise 0wXX oils not matter what, does not mean that it's all actually relevant in real life.


If you live in really cold temps, having an oil that's more pumpable in very cold temps is a good thing, like "in real life".
 
Hyundai didn't say your warranty would automatically be void if you use 0w-20 or 0w-30. They said IF you damaged something because you used 0w-30 or whatever other viscosity, AND the damage was caused by that incorrect viscosity, THEN it would be void.
Quote:
any damages to your vehicle CAUSED by the use of other products and/or grades recommended by the manufacturer would lead to our warranty department not being able to provide any assistance with the repairs of the said part.

Do you really think you're going to damage your engine by using 0w-20 or 0w-30? I'm assuming not, or else you wouldn't consider using them. Then you shouldn't have anything to worry about.

Do you think any unrelated engine damages could be proven to be caused by 0w-20 or 0w-30? If no, then you've got nothing to worry about.

Oh yeah, I would really like to see where the "oil tank" is located on a Hyundai.
laugh.gif

Quote:
engineers informed us that the best recommended grade can be found on the cap of your oil tank
 
Originally Posted By: JOD
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Funny how some think that anything without a "0" before the "w" will somehow wear out the engine.


Who's every actually made that claim?

Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Just because select few on this board choose to praise 0wXX oils not matter what, does not mean that it's all actually relevant in real life.


If you live in really cold temps, having an oil that's more pumpable in very cold temps is a good thing, like "in real life".


Exactly, eventhough I don't live in Saskatchewan anymore (-45 days) Toronto winters are still harsh -20 to -25 and to think 0w wouldn't benefit is ignoring the obvious.
 
Its a very general response by Hyundai. Hyundai would have to prove that the oil weight is what caused the problem if you ever do run into an engine related issue down the road (doubtful). Again, they are just protecting themselves from liability. Use what you want, however I dont think there is a significant difference between 0w20 and 5w20. I have used 5w30 and 0w20..and found no difference in starting ability in winter (parked on street during winter temps) Use a good quality synthetic 5w20 and dont be concerned. If you park in a driveway get a block heater for winter if you want.
 
0w20 may not pass API/ILSAC teost33c turbo deposit bench test, 5w20 ILSAC are required to pass this test. Highly fortified lubes usually wont pass (high MoDTC and high % VII). Not saying this flag will lead to turbo bearing failure on YOUR car in situ - but that's the API/ILSAC GF5 spec and a reason NOT TO formally recommend a 0w20 oil in 5w20 applications.
I havent researched this lately, but are there any 5w20 turbo apps out there currently?
 
5W20 is pretty thin to begin with, and I've been running it in the '12 4.6 van in my sig-and I guarantee you I'm harder on it than your Hyundai is-running 9,000 pounds, and occasional 3,000-7,000 pound trailer on the back, oil's been holding up fine, good oil pressure even after 5K miles. Now as for the transmission doing all those redline upshifts merging onto the interstate...
 
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