Oil filters....

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Excellent! This is another subject which I enjoy reading about! I'll be sure to start a few threads in here!
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Thanks again for offering up such a cool site Bob, for oil fanatics like me this is the best place to hang out!
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Filter question:
Why will some motorists try to use a 'longer' or 'taller' filter, thinking it is better, when they have no idea how much media - or what type media - is inside the can?
Isn't this the same as using synthetic oil, thinking it's better, but not having the oil analyzed?

[ June 12, 2002, 10:04 PM: Message edited by: harry31 ]
 
Harry 31,
I like your question because it made me think. I agree that taller filters may or may not be better than the standard OEM size, BUT you will increase the oil capacity of the engine, however slightly. And on a high reving engine I feel that every little bit helps.

I won't touch the synthetic oil comment as I have pro and con ideas on it. It would take me a page to explain.
 
I use a mobil 1 filter as I have found that to work the best for me. If I could find a little bigger m1 filter I'd use it, but as henry pointed out, if you dont know what type of media? Is an excellent question and it does make sense.

In the situation of toyota's sludge issue they had, I had found that the engines with higher capacity oil pans, had no apparent problem where as the lower capacity did.

So question is, the trade off of better filtration for longer oil life... or is it longer oil life for better filtration.. hmmm
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Well, one way to play that is to get one of those double filter adaptors, that allows you to install a second filter inline, then you have the best of both worlds huh.
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What's up with Fram oil filters. Everyone says they are the worst, just what is so bad about them. I have been using them for more than 10 years without any problems.
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Fram used to make high quality filters, but rumor has it when they got the contract to be sold at Walmart, the pressure was on to provide such low prices that they had to cheapen their materials. So instead of metal endcaps and proper bypass valves, they use cardboard endcaps and failure prone cheap plastic bypass valves. Stories abound about these things failing and going into bypass mode almost immediately after being put on, so having a Fram filter on there is like no filter at all.

And even if half of the stories out there aren't true, why take a chance when there are other filters priced the same that are known to be of high quality (such as the AC Delco, or the low cost filters at Walmart which are made by Champion)
 
Bob: What do you drive? To find a bigger filter to to Page 929 of the Purolator book where they give the specs for their filters. Advance Auto has this book as does Pep Boys I believe. Anyway they give you filter length, filter diameter thread/design and relief setting. You can then go down the columns and find a longer one. You can then cross reference with other filters right from the PureONE box. If your Toyota takes the PL 10241 the Purolator (no PureOne) longer filter is the L25230. The bypass valve configuration is different but it has worked out for me.
 
Speaking of Fram....

I get the cheapo oil change at Wal-Mart, insisting that they replace the standard Fram with a Champion Labs unit. At the last change, the tech. substituted the tiny Fram size filter (6607) for the standard Super-Tech. (Super-Tech and Fram share many of the same numbers.)

So, why would Fram call for a small filter when the larger size would be superior? My suspicions is that the small filter might fit 100% of all Hyundai's and the larger fit only 90% because of clearances, and that Fram is just too lazy to bother with determining clearances.

e-mail from Champion Labs...

"The Super Tech catalog calls for the ST2808 on the 2001 Hyundai Elantra.
The ST6607 could be used as a smaller alternate, however the correct filter
which we recommend is the ST2808.

The only air filter we have available for this application is the Champ
AF7999. For the nearest Champ distributor in your area, please contact our
Customer Service at (800) 851-3641.

If you have any other questions, feel free to contact us at any time.
Thank you.

Chad Garrett
Technical Service
Representative
Champion Laboratories, Inc."
 
Bob -
I just found your great forum and just in time too! Toyota has sent me their warning letter
on my 98 Camry 4 cyl - about how sludge might form and they'll fix it if needed, even though
it's my fault. Well I change oil and filters at 7500 mi as required, with Castrol GTX and cheapo
filters, and don't have blue smoke or other sludge symptoms yet. My question is What should I be doing to avoid the problem? Switch to a high quality syn like Mobil 1? Add a bypass filter? Someone suggested adding kerosene to oil to clean internal parts. Any suggestions?
 
I use either Amsoil filters almost exclusively or Mobil 1 Filters (when I can find them).

Kerosene, bad move, just thins out the oil.
 
syzygy

quote:

My question is What should I be doing to avoid the problem? Switch to a high quality syn like Mobil 1? Add a bypass filter? Someone suggested adding kerosene to oil to clean internal parts. Any suggestions?

As pointed out, do not use anything that would have to be taken out in just mins after putting it in as it will do more damage than you can imagine.

When using a harsh solvent such as kerosene or any that product that instructs you to run for only 10 or 15mins then drain, you do several things.

  • breaks big chunks off at a time that will plug up oil channels and oil pickup screens
  • will have extreme negative effects on your seals causing them to dry out and crack creating leaks
I'd suggest using something like the auto rx or schaeffers 131 engine purge to gently wash out the engine and help condition the valvestem seals. As a sludged engine gets clean, it washes off the sludge buildup around the stem seals which by that time have been exposed to extreme heat with no lubrication and will start to leak as it no longer is protected by the layer of sludge acting like a seal.

The other thing with toyotas is due to the way it treats oil, I strongly recommend that if you are going beyound 3,000 miles that you do oil analysis to establish how well your choice of oil is holding up, then extend from there.

One of the things in my investigation that I found was anyone doing 3k drains, experienced no sludge effects as the oil was replaced before it could do any damage. The only ones that sludged were ones following the 5-7500 mile recommended drain intervals.

With the newer SL grade oils, This sludge issue should become less of a problem if maintained between 3-5,000 miles but as mentioned before, do a couple of analysis as each persons situation is different in driving habits,engine condition, outside enviormental conditions and so on.

[ June 21, 2002, 10:18 AM: Message edited by: BOBISTHEOILGUY ]
 
sorry, all my customers are spanish speaking. But the pictures say a lot. Now that you asked, I've added the filter study in English

[ June 23, 2002, 02:29 PM: Message edited by: widman ]
 
The pictures aren't showing up. Out of all those filters, only the Fram is up here, and I wouldn't use that if you paid me!
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Bob -
Thanks for the sludge-avoidance suggestions, which I will do. One more follow-up -
If sludge begins to form, there should be a decrease in oil pressure. Would it make
sense to install an oil-pressure gauge to get some advance warning of the problem,
rather than just wait for the idiot-light? Maybe Toyota offers one, or is there an
aftermarket unit that fits Camrys? thx
 
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