My new Briggs recommends 5w-30 full syn I am how ever a big fan of HDEO in small air cooled engines I found a 0w-30 full syn HDEO what are your thoughts.
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is this to thin for Briggs?
- Thread starter kyxtremetuber
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Its still a 30 weight oil...
What exactly is this 0W-30 you speak of? Some 0W-30s are actually on the thick side, almost a 40. GC for example is one of them.
Originally Posted By: kyxtremetuber
My new Briggs recommends 5w-30 full syn. I am how ever a big fan of HDEO in small air cooled engines. So, I found a 0w-30 full syn HDEO.What are your thoughts?
Fixed
My new Briggs recommends 5w-30 full syn. I am how ever a big fan of HDEO in small air cooled engines. So, I found a 0w-30 full syn HDEO.What are your thoughts?
Fixed
You are good to go.
gathermewool
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Originally Posted By: JethroBodine
Originally Posted By: kyxtremetuber
My new Briggs recommends 5w-30 full syn. I am how ever a big fan of HDEO in small air cooled engines. So, I found a 0w-30 full syn HDEO.What are your thoughts?
Fixed
If you're going to fix it, you should probably make sure you're 100% correct. Otherwise, you look like a duffus.
My thoughts, OP? Give a little more information, such as the oil you've decided on, why you think it's UNSAT, and any other pertinent information, such as the application and usage...
Originally Posted By: kyxtremetuber
My new Briggs recommends 5w-30 full syn. I am how ever a big fan of HDEO in small air cooled engines. So, I found a 0w-30 full syn HDEO.What are your thoughts?
Fixed
If you're going to fix it, you should probably make sure you're 100% correct. Otherwise, you look like a duffus.
My thoughts, OP? Give a little more information, such as the oil you've decided on, why you think it's UNSAT, and any other pertinent information, such as the application and usage...
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Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: KD0AXS
What exactly is this 0W-30 you speak of? Some 0W-30s are actually on the thick side, almost a 40. GC for example is one of them.
But they are still a 30 weight oil...
What he said....don't confuse those not so educated (like me)....You BITOG people will have me guessing that a 30wt really ISNT a 30wt soon. Ha!
0-30wt is a 30wt it's not like non-detergent 30wt so where is the issue?
Originally Posted By: KD0AXS
What exactly is this 0W-30 you speak of? Some 0W-30s are actually on the thick side, almost a 40. GC for example is one of them.
But they are still a 30 weight oil...
What he said....don't confuse those not so educated (like me)....You BITOG people will have me guessing that a 30wt really ISNT a 30wt soon. Ha!
0-30wt is a 30wt it's not like non-detergent 30wt so where is the issue?
I've not seen a Briggs mower (Except for whole house generators or snowblowers) that called for anything other than HD 30.
What sort of engine is this?
What sort of engine is this?
Originally Posted By: WMSmotorhead
I've not seen a Briggs mower (Except for whole house generators or snowblowers) that called for anything other than HD 30.
What sort of engine is this?
Briggs recommends synthetic 5w30 engine oil for all their engines in all temperatures and have for about 5-10 years now.
Briggs Oil Recommendation
SAE 30 40° F and higher (5° C and higher) is good for all purpose use above 40° F, use below 40° F will cause hard starting.
10W-30 0 to 100° F (-18 to 38° C) is better for varying temperature conditions. This grade of oil improves cold weather starting, but may increase oil consumption at 80° F(27° C) or higher.
Synthetic 5W-30 -20 to 120° F (-30 to 40° C) provides the best protection at all temperatures as well as improved starting with less oil consumption.
5W-30 40° F and below (5° C and below) is recommended for winter use, and works best in cold conditions.
I've not seen a Briggs mower (Except for whole house generators or snowblowers) that called for anything other than HD 30.
What sort of engine is this?
Briggs recommends synthetic 5w30 engine oil for all their engines in all temperatures and have for about 5-10 years now.
Briggs Oil Recommendation
SAE 30 40° F and higher (5° C and higher) is good for all purpose use above 40° F, use below 40° F will cause hard starting.
10W-30 0 to 100° F (-18 to 38° C) is better for varying temperature conditions. This grade of oil improves cold weather starting, but may increase oil consumption at 80° F(27° C) or higher.
Synthetic 5W-30 -20 to 120° F (-30 to 40° C) provides the best protection at all temperatures as well as improved starting with less oil consumption.
5W-30 40° F and below (5° C and below) is recommended for winter use, and works best in cold conditions.
It's always a good idea to start with the manufacturers suggestions and work from there. I know what you're thinking, that a good HDEO will have more adds which might be beneficial to small air cooled engines, right. While there doesn't seem to be any harm in that thinking, a VOA of B&S'S oil shows no more adds than SL PCMO, so no real need for an over abundance. I would think that a good HM syn like Mobil 1 HM 5W30 would be near perfect. It has SL level zddp without going overboard. Then again, any of the xW30 syn oils would be excellent. One of the best woud be GC 0W30, or something along those lines. Remember, these types of engines have been run with almost any oil and survived, so add packs, while not crucial, aren't life and death.
It's still a 30 weight oil.
Originally Posted By: WMSmotorhead
I've not seen a Briggs mower (Except for whole house generators or snowblowers) that called for anything other than HD 30.
What sort of engine is this?
Originally Posted By: WMSmotorhead
I've not seen a Briggs mower (Except for whole house generators or snowblowers) that called for anything other than HD 30.
What sort of engine is this?
Run whatever you want to run. That engine with fresh oil ( frequent oci's). I run good old whatever is laying around. I have only used 5w20 for the last few years. Never any problems.
Ken
Ken
Run it with confidence!
I repair small engines as a hobby. The only Briggs and Stratton engines I've seen blow up are those with no oil. As long as there is oil in them they will keep running. Heck, my dad bought a cheapo push mower and never changed the oil for 15 years. It was running fine when he sold it with its original oil in it. He never changed it, just added some when it wasn't full, which was probably every two years.
The average homeowner never changes the oil in their mower. Your mower will last 10 times as long since you are not only changing the oil, but using quality oil.
The weak point on mowers is usually not the engine. The deck rusts and the wheels fall off long before the engine quits.
I repair small engines as a hobby. The only Briggs and Stratton engines I've seen blow up are those with no oil. As long as there is oil in them they will keep running. Heck, my dad bought a cheapo push mower and never changed the oil for 15 years. It was running fine when he sold it with its original oil in it. He never changed it, just added some when it wasn't full, which was probably every two years.
The average homeowner never changes the oil in their mower. Your mower will last 10 times as long since you are not only changing the oil, but using quality oil.
The weak point on mowers is usually not the engine. The deck rusts and the wheels fall off long before the engine quits.
My 1955 briggs model 8 calls for sae20 above 32°F, 10w oil below 32°F. i have 5w-20 in the sump.
ken
ken
regardless of what you run in your B&S flathead engines: do check your oil level every 5 to 10 hrs of usage.
This is mainly due to the fundamental design that they do not have valve stem seals, and oil will seep into the combustion chamber through valve stems (more so for older/worn engines with worn valve guides).
Q.
This is mainly due to the fundamental design that they do not have valve stem seals, and oil will seep into the combustion chamber through valve stems (more so for older/worn engines with worn valve guides).
Q.
Back in the pre-BITOG era, when dinosaurs roamed the earth, no one ever "changed the oil" in a lawnmower. One would have been ridiculed for doing so. As jeepman said, the deck disintegrated or the handle fell off before the motor quit. Changing the oil with anything better than 3-in-1 or sewing-machine oil will be way more service than most ever had.
OK, removing my tongue from my cheek, what I mean to say is 0W-30 full synthetic HDEO will be massive overkill for any lawnmower. Sleep well.
OK, removing my tongue from my cheek, what I mean to say is 0W-30 full synthetic HDEO will be massive overkill for any lawnmower. Sleep well.
Originally Posted By: jeepman3071
The weak point on mowers is usually not the engine. The deck rusts and the wheels fall off long before the engine quits.
+1 This. Put whatever you want in it. You're still in the top 10% of homeowners who actually service their mowers.
The weak point on mowers is usually not the engine. The deck rusts and the wheels fall off long before the engine quits.
+1 This. Put whatever you want in it. You're still in the top 10% of homeowners who actually service their mowers.
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