Recommended oil for 90 5L Mustang

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Hey guys,

Just bought a new-to me 1990 mustang 5L 302 v8. The car has 75k miles and I don't know of its previous oil change cycles. What I do know is this:

The sticker on the windshield indicated a 10w30 bulk valvoline oil used previously. Car is a summer car and nothing else. I know all about PP being a cleaner oil, but I've been away from here for a while now.

Your thoughts? Ps- i am going to go with a purolator filter, or stick with Motorcraft?
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
M1 0w-40 with a Motorcraft filter if you intend on beating on it like a red-headed step-child.


+1, you won't get much better than that...
 
I'm running a fankenbrew 20 grade in my 88. I beat the heck out of it too. A bit more pep using a 20 grade too.
If its just for summer you can run anything from a 20 to a 40 grade. The 5.0 are a very durable motor so its not going to die on you whatever you pick.
I am liking the 20 grade in mine and am going to stick with it. Unless some kind of catastrophe takes place.
Were you going to use a synthetic or conventional?
An hdeo wouldn't hurt either synthetic or conventional. Try out a few oils and see what you like.
 
Originally Posted By: Striker
I wanted something synthetic that's for sure. My LS1 loves GC, not sure if it's needed here on this motor.

Go for it. GC won't hurt anything, but it will provide plenty of protection and its nice to use the same oil in multiple vehicles.
 
I use qsud 0w20 in most of my engines. I switch because!quite a few people i know use it relidiously. They all swear it makes their vehicle run quieter, start fast and easier, better throttle responce and acceleration, and some clain and documented fuel saving. I have to back the clains to. I run it in most everything i own.

Ken
 
Originally Posted By: Bandito440
Originally Posted By: Striker
I wanted something synthetic that's for sure. My LS1 loves GC, not sure if it's needed here on this motor.

Go for it. GC won't hurt anything, but it will provide plenty of protection and its nice to use the same oil in multiple vehicles.


I do that with our (the wife and I) fleet, but with Pennzoil HM.
 
Only beef is the price of gc compared to say pp or the likes. I was always under the impression these old pushrod engines enjoyed thicker oils. As for filter, just stick with oem?
 
Originally Posted By: Striker
Only beef is the price of gc compared to say pp or the likes. I was always under the impression these old pushrod engines enjoyed thicker oils. As for filter, just stick with oem?


GC is a thicker oil. It is very similar in viscosity to M1 0w-40.
 
Yeah I'm well aware of that
smile.gif
I wish it came 5 wt tho. Car is only a summer car.
 
Originally Posted By: Striker
Yeah I'm well aware of that
smile.gif
I wish it came 5 wt tho. Car is only a summer car.


Why would you desire it to have a heavier "winter" rating? It is already pretty bloody heavy at colder temps
confused.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Striker
Only beef is the price of gc compared to say pp or the likes. I was always under the impression these old pushrod engines enjoyed thicker oils. As for filter, just stick with oem?


I assumed the same thing,and was of the belief that thicker was better however in my quest for knowledge and practicing what I preach I've decided to try today's very stout 20 grades in older vehicles that may benefit from the lighter more modern versions.
Thus far I've only had one engine that I found unsuitable for a 20 grade and that was my 99 chev with a 5.3. It lost too much oil pressure at hot idle and made me uncomfortable keeping with the switch.
That truck runs best with a 10w-30 for summer and GC for winter. I haven't tried m1 0w-40 for winter yet but I'm going to try the Caterham blend first before going going with straight 0w-40.
Piston slap was almost non existent with 10w-30 in the summer. I think the extra viscosity at start up kept the piston from too much side to side when first started hence less noise but I'm not an engineer. It could just muffle the noise better.
Op
Match the oil to your driving conditions. You may be an ideal candidate for the Caterham blend based on the limited use of the car.
 
Originally Posted By: Striker
Yeah I'm well aware of that
smile.gif
I wish it came 5 wt tho. Car is only a summer car.


What are you trying to say. This sentence is stating you want it to come with a 5 grade,which I've never seen in existence.
Try to remember in the late 80s-early 90s the 10w-40s would sludge because of the viscosity improvers used at the time,as well as the 5w-30s. The 10w-30 grades were less prone to sludging because of very few viscosity index improvers in general in that grade.
Basically a 10W-30 starts life as a 10 grade oil. Then viscosity index improvers are added so that the oil with thin less when up to operating temp. The problem with that is these VII are usually polymers derived from plastics and they degrade in use and can become deposits and sludge.
Thin of them like a coiled up snake. As the oil heats up the snake uncoils,maintaining the oils viscosity. In used the coils are cut(shear)and the oil starts becoming what it started out as.
That problem really no longer exists to that degree so you can discard the 10w part of the recommendation and focus more on the 30 since its the operational viscosity.
Any of today's 30 grades(not weight) will be far better than what was available when the car was built.
In fact when the car was built the 30 grades of that era would shear and become a 20 grade,so in reality the engine was operating with a 20 grade in the sump for some of the oils interval and those engines were still legendary for their longevity.

And lesson time since by the post I quoted you don't know what the w means on the oil labels. It means winter,not weight. So a 5w-30 means the oil behaves as a 5 grade does (thickness) in the winter when cold and the 30 means it behaves as a 30 grade when up to operating temp.
Oil isn't measured in weights,they are separated by grades. Weight has just been around for so long that people haven't adopted the proper terminology and since most of us know what is being implied its accepted.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Clevy

Basically a 10W-30 starts life as a 10 grade oil. Then viscosity index improvers are added so that the oil with thin less when up to operating temp. The problem with that is these VII are usually polymers derived from plastics and they degrade in use and can become deposits and sludge.


No. Completely depends on the oil as to what the viscosity of the base is and the VI of the base oils used. For example there are numerous 5w-30 oils now on the market with no VII's, meaning they sure as heck aren't starting out as an SAE 5
wink.gif


Quote:
Thin of them like a coiled up snake. As the oil heats up the snake uncoils,maintaining the oils viscosity. In used the coils are cut(shear)and the oil starts becoming what it started out as.
That problem really no longer exists to that degree so you can discard the 10w part of the recommendation and focus more on the 30 since its the operational viscosity.


They polymers work both ways. They reduce viscosity increase as the oil cools and increase viscosity as the oil heats. So you could have an oil with a base that, at 100C, puts it in SAE 20 territory and VII it into a 10w-30. However you could also have an oil that, depending on the VI of the base oils used is very close to being a 10w-30 or is a 10w-30 right out of the gate.

Quote:
Any of today's 30 grades(not weight) will be far better than what was available when the car was built.


Yes, they most certainly are.

Quote:
In fact when the car was built the 30 grades of that era would shear and become a 20 grade,so in reality the engine was operating with a 20 grade in the sump for some of the oils interval and those engines were still legendary for their longevity.


No. While that was possibly true of some (most?) 5w-30's of that era, it wasn't necessarily the case with the 10w-30 oils which were inherently more shear stable.

Quote:
And lesson time since by the post I quoted you don't know what the w means on the oil labels. It means winter,not weight. So a 5w-30 means the oil behaves as a 5 grade does (thickness) in the winter when cold and the 30 means it behaves as a 30 grade when up to operating temp.


No.

The 5w simply denotes the oil passes the 5w CCS and MRV requirements at -30C. Which, IIRC, is 6,600cP for the CCS. It has nothing to do with the oil behaving like an SAE 5 would in the winter when cold.

The numbers before and after the "w" are measured using different testing protocols at wildly different temperatures and have no correlation with each other. The SAE 0w, 5w, 10w, 15w, 20w and 25w designations are separate from the SAE 20, 30, 40, 50 and 60 designations. Of course they all fall under SAE J300.

Quote:
Oil isn't measured in weights,they are separated by grades. Weight has just been around for so long that people haven't adopted the proper terminology and since most of us know what is being implied its accepted.


It really isn't that wrong
wink.gif


There's a nice little WIKI on it:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil

Quote:
These numbers are often referred to as the "weight" of a motor oil, and single-grade motor oils are often called "straight-weight" oils.
 
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