Pennzoil Ultra 5w30 switch to 5w20

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TheChevyGuy

TheChevyGuy

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Jul 14, 2013
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Location
Race City USA, NC
Hello Everyone, my first post here, and from what I can tell, I need to be specific and bring the details.

So, here we go, I have a 2007 Chevrolet Trailblazer that recommends to use 5w30 motor oil. I have always used the 5w30 (I am very meticulous with my vehicles, all Chevrolet of course). I pour Pennzoil Ultra 5w30, and use a K&N filter. However recently I have found that I can get a 5qt jug of 5w20 Pennzoil Ultra at Wal-Mart for $26 (minus a $6 coupon gets me out the door at $20). I really like the deal and dropping to a 5w20 doesn't seem to be a major ordeal to me, BUT I am reading many differing opinions on this. I thought this would be the best place to get the best answers.

I have the 4.2L VORTEC engine with a 2 wheel drive transmission. I don't really tow or anything extended duty, I just want the ultimate protection. I drive about 12k a year and the vehicle has 94k on it. I normally do the oil changes at the recommended 7500 miles or if the engine oil life sensor goes sooner.

Otherwise because ULTRA is becoming so much more scarce and when you do find it it is expensive, should I switch to Pennzoil Platinum 5w30?

can I really create issues dropping down to a 5w20?

I am asking for your opinions.....
 
I'd use Platinum (or any other synthetic) in the correct viscosity before I'd lower the viscosity out of the approved spec just to use a more expensive oil. In light of the fact you describe yourself as meticulous, your OCIs are managed correctly, you go all out on your filters, and you don't abuse the engine, I think Platinum is an excellent choice and it will provide more than adequate protection for you.
 
I'd call that false economy, stick with the 5w30 GM spec'd for your vehicle. That's a great Ultra deal no doubt but not if it's not the right oil.
 
I agree with sticking with 5w30. Pennzoil platinum or any other name brand synthetic would serve well in your application.
 
I've got a 5.0 Windsor in a fox mustang. Just for giggles I put 2 quarts M1 5w-20,2 quarts PP 0w-20 and a quart of eneos 0w-20. I've got over 2000kms on it thus far and I think I going to stay with a 20 grade in this motor. Oil pressure is a couple pounds less at idle but the same while driving.
I won't recommend going a grade thinner however thus far I'm very happy with the switch.
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
I've got a 5.0 Windsor in a fox mustang. Just for giggles I put 2 quarts M1 5w-20,2 quarts PP 0w-20 and a quart of eneos 0w-20. I've got over 2000kms on it thus far and I think I going to stay with a 20 grade in this motor. Oil pressure is a couple pounds less at idle but the same while driving.
I won't recommend going a grade thinner however thus far I'm very happy with the switch.


Until you wipe a bearing (I kid I kid... kinda). The 302 has a bottom-end that likes to move around a bit, which was why I was only comfortable running a 20-weight in it in the winter. In contrast, the Modular with its deep-skirted multi-bolt mains is far more rigid down there and also has a much higher volume and pressure oiling system.

Are you beating on it?
 
stick with 5w-30, nowadays i have found out especially on warm weather 5w-20 does not really improve mpg but barely protect when the car with manual gearbox is worked hard
 
Originally Posted By: TheChevyGuy
Hello Everyone, my first post here,

can I really create issues dropping down to a 5w20?

I am asking for your opinions.....


Welcome to BITOG.

Stick with the OEMs opinion and condition of use in the OEMs operating manual of an 5w-30 oil with OEMs builders approval. Thats the one that matters.
 
Last edited:
Stick with the 30-weight oil in the warmer months and use the 5W-20 in the winter or mix it with some leftover 5W-30 in the colder months.
 
Thanks for all the input....I am going to go back to the 5w30 Mobil 1 I used to use along with a Mobil 1 filter....in doing a little more research (and looking at the owners manual) this is the factory pour for the Trailblazer SS. If Mobil 1 is good enough for GM I will go back to it and stay with it.

Seems that I can get the Mobil 1 and M1 filter for $30 at Advance Auto....I can handle that!
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: Clevy
I've got a 5.0 Windsor in a fox mustang. Just for giggles I put 2 quarts M1 5w-20,2 quarts PP 0w-20 and a quart of eneos 0w-20. I've got over 2000kms on it thus far and I think I going to stay with a 20 grade in this motor. Oil pressure is a couple pounds less at idle but the same while driving.
I won't recommend going a grade thinner however thus far I'm very happy with the switch.


Until you wipe a bearing (I kid I kid... kinda). The 302 has a bottom-end that likes to move around a bit, which was why I was only comfortable running a 20-weight in it in the winter. In contrast, the Modular with its deep-skirted multi-bolt mains is far more rigid down there and also has a much higher volume and pressure oiling system.

Are you beating on it?

I have been yeah. I only did it just to see if pressure would be ok but I gotta admit if feels like its got more out of the hole then it used to.
I've got a built 306 so this engine is basically for me to see exactly what kind of abuse a stockish 302 can take. It will end up a being punched out and rebuilt.
I'm gonna run it on a 20 grade til I finally get my 2000 back. Some idiot at the tuning shop decided to take it for a spin on the nitrous tune spaying 150,and ended up sideways into a telephone pole.
The tuning shop has sent it to my auto body guy who is waiting on parts that are 4-6 weeks out. That 2000 is cursed I think.
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: Clevy
I've got a 5.0 Windsor in a fox mustang. Just for giggles I put 2 quarts M1 5w-20,2 quarts PP 0w-20 and a quart of eneos 0w-20. I've got over 2000kms on it thus far and I think I going to stay with a 20 grade in this motor. Oil pressure is a couple pounds less at idle but the same while driving.
I won't recommend going a grade thinner however thus far I'm very happy with the switch.


Until you wipe a bearing (I kid I kid... kinda). The 302 has a bottom-end that likes to move around a bit, which was why I was only comfortable running a 20-weight in it in the winter. In contrast, the Modular with its deep-skirted multi-bolt mains is far more rigid down there and also has a much higher volume and pressure oiling system.

Are you beating on it?

I have been yeah. I only did it just to see if pressure would be ok but I gotta admit if feels like its got more out of the hole then it used to.
I've got a built 306 so this engine is basically for me to see exactly what kind of abuse a stockish 302 can take. It will end up a being punched out and rebuilt.
I'm gonna run it on a 20 grade til I finally get my 2000 back. Some idiot at the tuning shop decided to take it for a spin on the nitrous tune spaying 150,and ended up sideways into a telephone pole.
The tuning shop has sent it to my auto body guy who is waiting on parts that are 4-6 weeks out. That 2000 is cursed I think.


Is this one stock? You are less likely to hurt a stock one
smile.gif


Yeah, your 2K sounds like it has been crazy bad luck!
frown.gif
 
My last oil change on my 4.2 was mostly 5w20 and it doesn't even show a difference on the OP guage. You could buy the 5w20 jug and make it up with 5w30, or better yet get some T6 on sale and a 5:2 ratio would be a happy 5w30.

Mine goes over 11k miles before I get to 0% on the OLM and I don't worry a bit with the 7qt sump. Where do you get the 7500 mile recommendation from?
 
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