Why would temp gauge swing up then back down?

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Originally Posted By: guyonearth
I can tell the temperature of the engine to within 5 degrees just by watching the position of the needle. I've compared it to the reading from the PCM and it's dead on. There's no reason a gauge can't be accurate or consistent.


I have cars like that too. Not Fords!
 
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Car runs fine, but it does.

Air pocket?
Something worse?

This time, it went up to about the "A" on.my temp gauge's range of "NORMAL," back down to the N, stayed low a little, now is fine.

?


I have no idea what kind of car you are talking about.

You need to give us LOTS more info to discuss your symptom...
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Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
So, if you were me, you would STOP messing with the cap, keep an eye on the overflow, and let it set up that way?


YES. Leave it alone and monitor the coolant level in the overflow tank only.

Originally Posted By: Papa Bear
I have no idea what kind of car you are talking about.

You need to give us LOTS more info to discuss your symptom...
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Stick around, PB, and you'll get several orders of magnitude more information than you ever think you'll need. Some of it may actually be on the car!
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In my 1990 Chevy K1500 pick-up with 350TBI, my temp gauge slowly (like in 30 seconds) rises to 190, and then in 5 seconds, drops to 140. It cycles like this at idle, or on the highway at 80MPH. It cycles like this non-stop once at operating temps.
 
Sticky thermostat, useful in winter, you get REALLLY FRIGGIN GOOD HEAT in the morning. Not so good for the engine though.
 
Originally Posted By: itguy08
After that all the Fords (00 Explorer, 03 Escape, and 10 SHO) all park it smack in the middle no matter what the temp.
I wouldn't worry about it as long as it's in the normal range. Older cars tended to have wild swings in the temps but it's nothig to worry about as long as its in normal.
I think they've dumbed down the gauges. My 1987 Olds 442 temp gauge was very accurate as to what was really going on under the hood.

The 1995 Cutlass 3.1 gauge wasn't bad, as was moms 1999 Monte Carlo.

However, the gauge in my Grand Caravan doesn't budge from center after reaching normal operating temp. It can be 90 degrees with the A/C full blast and both fans running or a frigid winter day the needle stays stuck in the middle.

They might as well put a warning light there instead.
 
Originally Posted By: Papa Bear
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Car runs fine, but it does.

Air pocket?
Something worse?

This time, it went up to about the "A" on.my temp gauge's range of "NORMAL," back down to the N, stayed low a little, now is fine.

?


I have no idea what kind of car you are talking about.
You need to give us LOTS more info to discuss your symptom...
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1995 Ford Taurus GL
 
I don't know how quickly this is happening, but
Erratic temperature swings at the gauge sender are caused by problems with coolant flow. If the coolant is flowing properly, the system has too much mass for such erratic changes to happen. If it's sweeping significantly in just a few seconds, then it's not normal.
Coolant could be low (caused by a leak) which causes flow problems. That's the first thing to look for before you worry about anything else. Could be a bad water pump (suspect if revving cools it off). Sticking thermostat, maybe a restriction somewhere like the radiator but I'd expect that to be static.

I'm guessing at the "N" on your gauge is probably lower than the intended thermostat opening temperature. You had cold coolant in the radiator that suddenly displaced the hot coolant ("A" reading). Could be any of the above causing it.

If the overflow is running dry then it's sucking air into the system, which doesn't help.

When the car has been sitting cold, you don't by any chance find the overflow overflowing, do you? A bad/incorrect radiator cap can cause that to happen, leaving air in the system above that level. That applies to some cars but I don't know if it does to the Taurus.
 
Originally Posted By: armos
If it's sweeping significantly in just a few seconds, then it's not normal.

What would you consider "significant"?

The reason I ask is that my coolant temp normally stays at about 97C, but if I floor it, it'll drop to about 80C within 20 seconds or less. Then it'll slowly get back up to 97C again after I'm done flooring it. I thought this was normal behavior.

By the way, the actual gauge does not budge while this is happening. It has a dead range in the center from 75C to about 115C.
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: armos
If it's sweeping significantly in just a few seconds, then it's not normal.

What would you consider "significant"?

The reason I ask is that my coolant temp normally stays at about 97C, but if I floor it, it'll drop to about 80C within 20 seconds or less. Then it'll slowly get back up to 97C again after I'm done flooring it. I thought this was normal behavior.

By the way, the actual gauge does not budge while this is happening. It has a dead range in the center from 75C to about 115C.


I was thinking more along the lines of moving say 25-50F in like 3-5 seconds, or even in a sudden twitch. Whenever I've seen that there was a problem causing it.
20 seconds sounds more reasonable, and it doesn't sound like you're seeing hot spots, just a shift from normal temps to temporary overcooling.

If I did the math correctly yours is a drop from 206F -> 176F. I assume the thermostat threshold is in the 190s somewhere. Since it doesn't have high temperature excursions it doesn't sound like a problem. If the flow was poor or intermittent, you should see it get much hotter in the head (gauge reading) and then suddenly cool off when the coolant starts flowing again.
It sounds like it's having no problem staying at ~205F, so efficiency doesn't seem to be in doubt. The only thing strange is that it seems to overcool a bit at WOT.
If it's been consistent for a long time, the range of temperatures isn't widening, then maybe it is normal. I haven't noticed that happen on cars I've owned, but maybe I just wasn't watching for it under the right circumstances.
With full throttle you'll get into high RPM, and perhaps that turns the water pump fast enough to provide a lot of "excess" cooling while the thermostat is taking some time to close, so you end up well below the thermostat threshold before it closes. I've never really noticed that happen but it makes some sense.
It implies there was a differential of over 30F between the coolant in the cylinder head and the radiator, even though the thermostat was open (as it would be at 205F). But at low RPM maybe that's not unusual.

If this happens after accelerating from a stop, then the change in airflow over the radiator is also a factor, since the fan probably isn't on at 205. Between that and the high RPMs it might just be getting a surge of cooling before the thermostat can react.
Maybe the thermostat sticks open, but maybe it's nothing at all.

==
I knew many cars have dumbed down oil pressure gauges, but I didn't know they were doing it with coolant gauges. I have to say I find that outrageous. The owner needs to know if the system is losing it's ability to stay in the regulated temperature range. That's the warning sign that something needs attention before it starts to seriously overheat later.
115C is 239F - I'd want to be aware of the behavior before it got to that point.
I believe that cooling malfunction is one of the most common ways older cars get ruined. So for manufacturers to deliberately reduce people's awareness of the temperature, definitely annoys me.
 
Typically you see swings on an otherwise healthy vehicle because the electric fans are doing their thing.

Most have at least two speeds, some can vary the speed based on demands. My car can cycle its two speeds for coolant temp, trans temp, and AC high side pressure.

In the heat of summer at an indicated 97 degrees ambient the HS fans operate in 20 second bursts just for the AC and actually reduce the temps at the gauge.

Our trucks with mechanical fans NEVER vary unless they need a new clutch. Temp goes right to the 205 mark and just sits there whether you're moving or not, AC or not, etc.

It's also worth noting not all cars can be damaged by coolant overheating. Many have elaborate protection schemes programmed into the PCM that make it difficult to cause serious damage no matter how stupid you are.

So as per my usual mantra, it's wildly platform specific.
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Typically you see swings on an otherwise healthy vehicle because the electric fans are doing their thing.

Yup, that's what I believe is happening on my car. When I gun it, the electric fan kicks in.
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Typically you see swings on an otherwise healthy vehicle because the electric fans are doing their thing.

Yup, that's what I believe is happening on my car. When I gun it, the electric fan kicks in.


It will happen in my car in very hot weather. The stock programming would not even use the high speed fans until around 230 degrees coolant temp. The low speed would run continuously due to my AC being on all the time (very rarely off).

Now I run a 180 thermostat and have the high speed fans kick in at 195, this way my coolant temp never exceeds 200 even if I am really into the throttle.
 
Mine stays down close to the bottom of the gauge for extended periods of time, and only sometimes rises to the middle of but not over the middle of the gauge, with no real common denominator from when it does that.

It MAY rise to the middle when on the highway but sometimes it doesn't even do that.

today it almost never got off the line on top of the C mark!
 
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Mine stays down close to the bottom of the gauge for extended periods of time, and only sometimes rises to the middle of but not over the middle of the gauge, with no real common denominator from when it does that.

It MAY rise to the middle when on the highway but sometimes it doesn't even do that.

today it almost never got off the line on top of the C mark!


That sounds like the T-stat not working correctly.
 
My Aerostar had the exact same symptoms twice, both times I changed the thermostat and the problem was resolved. I found the thermostat would last between 4 or 5 years in that vehicle, and I learned to only use Motorcraft thermostats in it. I did not have an electric fan, mine was belt driven. YMMV
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Mine stays down close to the bottom of the gauge for extended periods of time, and only sometimes rises to the middle of but not over the middle of the gauge, with no real common denominator from when it does that.

It MAY rise to the middle when on the highway but sometimes it doesn't even do that.

today it almost never got off the line on top of the C mark!


That sounds like the T-stat not working correctly.


I do agree with you, the only thing is that we just changed it a week ago and this symptom continues!

Is it at all possible that the cooling system is soo stopped up that nothing short of putting a garden hose in and running it until the water runs clear will help things?
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
My Aerostar had the exact same symptoms twice, both times I changed the thermostat and the problem was resolved. I found the thermostat would last between 4 or 5 years in that vehicle, and I learned to only use Motorcraft thermostats in it. I did not have an electric fan, mine was belt driven. YMMV


Sounds like another T0stat change is in order.

I am now alarmed, because this also was changed by the guy, and they had to re-do the VSS, and it works now.. Less jerky, but still suspect...

I wonder if he put it in backwards, it IS a fail-safe.

And just two weeks ago, the temp was in the normal range, and I asked why it fluxuates WITHIN the normal range. This is weird.
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Typically you see swings on an otherwise healthy vehicle because the electric fans are doing their thing.

Yup, that's what I believe is happening on my car. When I gun it, the electric fan kicks in.


The swings you're seeing go well below the thermostat threshold though, unless your thermostat is a lot colder than usual. It looks more like a case of the thermostat not closing quickly under a WOT scenario.
If you were able to maintain WOT for much longer, it should ultimately stabilize back in the intended range after the thermostat has time to react.
 
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
My Aerostar had the exact same symptoms twice, both times I changed the thermostat and the problem was resolved. I found the thermostat would last between 4 or 5 years in that vehicle, and I learned to only use Motorcraft thermostats in it. I did not have an electric fan, mine was belt driven. YMMV


Sounds like another T0stat change is in order.

I am now alarmed, because this also was changed by the guy, and they had to re-do the VSS, and it works now.. Less jerky, but still suspect...

I wonder if he put it in backwards, it IS a fail-safe.

And just two weeks ago, the temp was in the normal range, and I asked why it fluxuates WITHIN the normal range. This is weird.


If the speedo is "bouncing", that's not the VSS and is the speedo cable "catching" in its lining. So you either need to replace the speedo cable, or fab up a way to lubricate it so that it smooths out. My '87 Mustang had this problem, I just replaced the cable. Problem solved.
 
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