Help with diagnosing old Kohler Command engine

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The engine on my 17 year old Craftsman lawn tractor appears to have suffered some significant failure. It's a 15 HP single cylinder Kohler Command. It has performed reliably for all these years, the only repair was the replacement of a deteriorated breather hose 7 years ago. It has been properly maintained for its entire life.

Here's the recent evolution of the problems:

The engine fired up and ran fine the first mowing of the season (April). The following week, it started to crank but stopped turning after a very brief time (perhaps one rotation of the flywheel). I gave the battery a quick charge and it started up later that day. I then bought a new battery believing that was the problem. A week or two after installing the new battery, it exhibited the same starting problem. This time I noticed that if I held the key in "start" position, the flywheel continued to rotate very slowly and after about 5 seconds it would crank normally and fire right up. Once started, it ran normally with no other symptoms other than an unusual amount of oil smoke on startup. For the next few uses, it either started right up or would exhibit the slow, then normal cranking before firing up.

Last week I attempted to start it and this time the flywheel didn't move at all after a short (normal) rotation. I then made several attempts at starting by turning the key to "start" position then off. After about 6 or 8 tries, the engine cranked normally and then acted like it was starting but only made popping sounds (like backfires). At that point I noticed that there was fuel dripping from the muffler.

I then removed all of the covers, carburetor and valve cover. One thing I found was that (prior to removal) the carburetor throat was full of gas. I rotated the flywheel by hand and noted that the valves were opening and the springs and rest of valve gear appeared intact. It appeared that the flywheel/magneto magnets passed the coil/pickup shortly after the intake valve opened (as well as sometime after the compression stroke). I reassembled the engine and cleaned the carb and installed a new float/needle/pin.

It appeared that the carb was no longer overfilling and I attempted to start it. The engine cranked strong but nothing happened. I put a few drops of gas in the opening to the carb which then resulted in the popping and backfiring. To me it acts like it has somehow "jumped timing", but I'm not sure how that would have happened.

I'm seeking suggestions on what might have failed or what the next step in diagnosing it might be. I have only a moderate amount of mechanical experience and seeing as to how it's such an old mower/engine, I'm trying to weigh how much time/money/effort would be reasonable. (the mower deck works, but has begun to show some rust-through on the deck, so its lifetime is limited).

In addition to the timing question, this engine has a compression release mechanism and I wonder if it could have broken. It is also equipped with a fuel shutoff solenoid on the carb bowl.

Any info would be appreciated.


BTW - Engine has Rotella T-5 10W30 in it....
 
Flywheel key is sheared. If it's never happened in 17 years, it's not as unusual as you might think. If it was hard to crank over before, the valves may need to be adjusted. Search YouTube for a video demonstrating how to adjust the valves. Make sure you adjust them the same time you replace key (and before attempting to start the engine).

example (push mower) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O8nseGCrbTg
 
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Thanks.

I'll look into the flywheel key. According to the Kohler service manual, my model has non-adjustable valves. Could that be a mis-nomer like lifetime fluid?
 
i'm thinking it was part hyrdro locked by too much fuel sittin in the cylinder, making it hard to crank. then some pooled in the muffler, allowing some backfires.

next time, experiment turning by hand and see if its physically not wanting to. then pull the plug, try again. easier? then it's got fuel in the cylinder.

check your oil. it may be overfilled with gas that has dumped through the rings into the sump.
 
Originally Posted By: meep
i'm thinking it was part hyrdro locked by too much fuel sittin in the cylinder, making it hard to crank. then some pooled in the muffler, allowing some backfires.

next time, experiment turning by hand and see if its physically not wanting to. then pull the plug, try again. easier? then it's got fuel in the cylinder.

check your oil. it may be overfilled with gas that has dumped through the rings into the sump.


When I initially noticed the fuel that was one of my first thoughts - something I think was happening. At that time I drained the oil and it was fine and have since refilled with fresh oil. I think the float and needle may have been faulty and I replaced them. After that the engine cranks normally but only backfires. I wonder if the initial problem with hard cranking (and repeated "bump" starts) occurred with fuel in the cylinder and the last time it did indeed shear the flywheel key - resulting in altered timing(?). It's been a reliable engine and I'd really prefer to fix it, but with the age of the tractor I can't see putting a lot of money into repairing it.
 
Had a similar problem with my Command Pro. Turned out to be a bad spark plug. Acted like the timing was off, a new plug solved the problem and has been fine for 2 years and counting.
 
Originally Posted By: BSLMS
Had a similar problem with my Command Pro. Turned out to be a bad spark plug. Acted like the timing was off, a new plug solved the problem and has been fine for 2 years and counting.

That is what I would do.

If it spins over fine now that you fixed the flooding, I would change the plug too. The flooding probably fouled the spark plug.
 
these engines are known to have problems with the magnets under the flywheel getting loose and flying off and or locking up the flywheel on the stator assembly caused by flywheel rusting and pushing magnets off sounds like what has happened
Phill
 
Thanks for the ideas. I replaced the plug with no change in behavior. Also, the magnets on the flywheel (exposed and pass the coil) are intact and attract a steel screwdriver.

I'm going to remove the valve cover again and re-visit the valve operation v.s. flywheel position, as well as get a rough measure of the amount of valve opening that occurs.
 
Yes, the sheared flywheel key must be replaced to correct timing. Did you look at the youtube video to get an idea of how to adjust the valves? It's very easy to do. My 18 HP Briggs would barely turn over unless I manually turned the engine past the compression stroke before cranking it. Adjusted the valves and it started like a dream.
 
If a new plug didn't help, I would look at the flywheel key next. Make sure you don't lube the key or flywheel, that can lead to the key shearing.
 
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Originally Posted By: AVB
If a new plug didn't help, I would look at the flywheel key next. Make sure you don't lube the key or flywheel, that can lead to the key shearing.


Thanks. It was indeed the key. Ended up being a cheap and easy fix. I finished up just before you posted your suggestion.

I had never replaced a key before and wouldn't have known about not lubing the shaft - but fortunately the Kohler Service document mentioned it, so I wiped it and the flywheel thoroughly before assembly. Good thing, because I had put a bit of PB Blaster on the bolt before removal.

Less than $3 and it runs like new again. Thanks for all the suggestions!
 
Good job.

A sheared key on a pull start engine will get your attention real fast. I had it happen on a old push mower. It will give your shoulder a yank that you won't forget.
 
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