Are these as bad as they are made out to be? i'm thinking about buying a used snapper self propelled mower with one on it that they seller says turns over but won't start. I've never heard much good about those engines though and was just wondering.
Intek engines
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This is an Intek on a walk-behind mower? I wasn't aware that they made small Inteks for walk-behinds. The Inteks I've seen are in the 12hp and larger variety on lawn tractors and such.
If it is a larger one with electric start, check for spark and check for fuel. I've seen the anti-backfire solenoid on the bottom of the carburetor bowl get sticky and stick. You should clear this click when the key is turned on.
If it is a larger one with electric start, check for spark and check for fuel. I've seen the anti-backfire solenoid on the bottom of the carburetor bowl get sticky and stick. You should clear this click when the key is turned on.
Usually good motors. Just drain the gas, change oil, spark plug and air filter and spray a shot of carb cleaner down the carb and it should run.
It is probably a card issue. It MAY need a rebuild.
BEWARE: The Briggs engines burn oil and lots of it. I used a well serviced 26hp Craftman PRO gargen tractor and in 5 acres it used 22 ounces of oil and smoked. My experience is that Briggs are long lasting but use the cheapest oil you can find in them because they burn it at an alarming rate.
Briggs I've used:
3.5hp
5hp
5.50 series
6.75 series
17.5 I/C
24HP Sears Platinum
26Hp Sears Garden tractor Pro edition.
All burned LARGE amounts of oil but ran fine.
Dusty
It is probably a card issue. It MAY need a rebuild.
BEWARE: The Briggs engines burn oil and lots of it. I used a well serviced 26hp Craftman PRO gargen tractor and in 5 acres it used 22 ounces of oil and smoked. My experience is that Briggs are long lasting but use the cheapest oil you can find in them because they burn it at an alarming rate.
Briggs I've used:
3.5hp
5hp
5.50 series
6.75 series
17.5 I/C
24HP Sears Platinum
26Hp Sears Garden tractor Pro edition.
All burned LARGE amounts of oil but ran fine.
Dusty
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For some reason I was thinking of the Lincoln specific mod engines
I find the Briggs burned much less oil when I used M1 TDT 5w40.
However, I got rid of all my B&S OPE and bought Honda powered equipment.
However, I got rid of all my B&S OPE and bought Honda powered equipment.
Not a bad motor at all. Clocked near 500 hrs on a mid 04 craftsman Dyt4000 and going up to date... Zero engine problems, minus a coil pack going out around 200 hrs. Zero oil usage, no valve ticks. Oil and filter changed with a name brand syn every 40 hrs on avg. Engine still has full power, and does not leak or smoke. Even still has the original battery! I would buy another in a NYC sec!. Now the tractor on the other hand... that needed tires, brakes, tie rods, sparkplugs, air filters, fuel filters, oil filters, transmission shift keys & a couple gears and fluid, front grill, belts... although reading through the list it does seem like mostly wear and tear items.
EDIT: I see you are talking about the walk behinds!, also have a couple of these! one is a mids 2005 6.5HP, the other a 2013 7.25. The 6.5HP one is perfect. NEVER an issues, first pull start, NO oil usage, no abnormal operation. Changed the oil many times, always used a synthetic. still have factory pulg, and air filter.
The 7.25 was just bought this year, and well. after leaking out 1/2 the oil out on the ground via the intake after the first use, was going to take it back, but i filled up the oil and it never leaked again.. It smokes on every start up. It also just blew a coil pack YESTERDAY!. 3rd time using it. ykes.
EDIT: I see you are talking about the walk behinds!, also have a couple of these! one is a mids 2005 6.5HP, the other a 2013 7.25. The 6.5HP one is perfect. NEVER an issues, first pull start, NO oil usage, no abnormal operation. Changed the oil many times, always used a synthetic. still have factory pulg, and air filter.
The 7.25 was just bought this year, and well. after leaking out 1/2 the oil out on the ground via the intake after the first use, was going to take it back, but i filled up the oil and it never leaked again.. It smokes on every start up. It also just blew a coil pack YESTERDAY!. 3rd time using it. ykes.
The Sno Intek 12 or 13 HP (i forget) i have has been great, no complaints in over 6 years now.
One pull and never used a drop of Mobil 1 0w40. This engine doesn't even need the electric starter.
One pull and never used a drop of Mobil 1 0w40. This engine doesn't even need the electric starter.
I assumed it was an intek because I saw another snapper for sale with the same engine but it had a yellow yardman cover on it but it said 6.5HP intek on the sticker. The one i'm looking at didn't have any good pics of the sticker, but it was definitely a ohv engine. It does have electric start on it
Any small Briggs engine that has OHV should be fine. A smaller one like this one would not have an anti-backfire solenoid like the larger ones had. There are two things to look at with a Briggs like this.
1) The carburetor jet plugs very easily with debris or varnish. This is in the actual bottom bolt that holds the carburetor bowl on. I almost never have to take a Briggs carburetor off the engine; but I almost always have to drain the fuel and take this bolt out and clean the jet hole. If I'm lazy or if I know the fuel in there is fresh, you can usually tip the tank back and still leave the fuel line attached to the carburetor, so you lose only the small amount of fuel in the carburetor bowl itself. If you're lucky, you can remove the bolt, the bowl will stay stuck to the bottom of the carburetor, and you can clean the jet hole in the bolt and then reinstall it with very little loss of fuel. The proper fix, though, would be to take everything off and put new carburetor bowl and bolt gaskets on it when you put it back together.
2) Many of these engines have automatic chokes, and these chokes tend to stick either open or closed. If the engine is a no-start, and if the ignition coil is good, then it's likely that there's a problem with the choke. They're usually easy to fix...some lubricant often gets them working again (on the choke thermostat on the engine block, not the choke butterfly in the carburetor). You should be able to take the air filter out and look into the carburetor and see if the choke butterfly is open or closed. On a cold engine, it should be closed all the way; if it's open or partially open, then that's most likely the problem right there. If it has a manual choke, move it back and forth and be sure the choke butterfly does indeed open and close as you work the manual choke lever.
The fix for either of the two items above takes only time; rarely are any new parts needed (except for fresh fuel if you have to drain the tank). If you can spray carburetor cleaner into the carburetor, pull the cord, and the engine runs for a second or two and dies, that's a good sign. It means that the engine's probably good, that the flywheel key is not sheared, and that it's probably just a fuel or choke problem. If it doesn't try to run at all on a quick shot of carburetor cleaner, then you're probably looking at either a sheared flywheel key (less likely) or a bad ignition coil (more likely). I doubt that it has either of these problems, but anything is possible on a piece of used equipment.
1) The carburetor jet plugs very easily with debris or varnish. This is in the actual bottom bolt that holds the carburetor bowl on. I almost never have to take a Briggs carburetor off the engine; but I almost always have to drain the fuel and take this bolt out and clean the jet hole. If I'm lazy or if I know the fuel in there is fresh, you can usually tip the tank back and still leave the fuel line attached to the carburetor, so you lose only the small amount of fuel in the carburetor bowl itself. If you're lucky, you can remove the bolt, the bowl will stay stuck to the bottom of the carburetor, and you can clean the jet hole in the bolt and then reinstall it with very little loss of fuel. The proper fix, though, would be to take everything off and put new carburetor bowl and bolt gaskets on it when you put it back together.
2) Many of these engines have automatic chokes, and these chokes tend to stick either open or closed. If the engine is a no-start, and if the ignition coil is good, then it's likely that there's a problem with the choke. They're usually easy to fix...some lubricant often gets them working again (on the choke thermostat on the engine block, not the choke butterfly in the carburetor). You should be able to take the air filter out and look into the carburetor and see if the choke butterfly is open or closed. On a cold engine, it should be closed all the way; if it's open or partially open, then that's most likely the problem right there. If it has a manual choke, move it back and forth and be sure the choke butterfly does indeed open and close as you work the manual choke lever.
The fix for either of the two items above takes only time; rarely are any new parts needed (except for fresh fuel if you have to drain the tank). If you can spray carburetor cleaner into the carburetor, pull the cord, and the engine runs for a second or two and dies, that's a good sign. It means that the engine's probably good, that the flywheel key is not sheared, and that it's probably just a fuel or choke problem. If it doesn't try to run at all on a quick shot of carburetor cleaner, then you're probably looking at either a sheared flywheel key (less likely) or a bad ignition coil (more likely). I doubt that it has either of these problems, but anything is possible on a piece of used equipment.
Not a bad engine. Not as good as some others. Head gaskets seem to go out more often than most other type engines. I replace four or five a year. That's out of the 25 of them I work on (tune up).
Originally Posted By: Miller88
For some reason I was thinking of the Lincoln specific mod engines
That was "Intech" and they weren't limited to Lincolns. They were also used in the '03-'04 Marauder.
For some reason I was thinking of the Lincoln specific mod engines
That was "Intech" and they weren't limited to Lincolns. They were also used in the '03-'04 Marauder.
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