Kendall GT-1 0W20 12' Mazda3 Skyactiv engine

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I frequent NASIOC and learned of this site by one of your members long ago.
I plan to post a WRX UOA shortly.

This UOA is from my wife's 2012 Mazda3, iTouring sedan, 6 speed manual with the direct injected Skyactiv engine.
The oil is 0W20 Kendall GT-1 full synthetic with Liquid Titanium API SN.
The oil has 5041 miles on it, the car had 19959 when changed. The oil filter was a Fram ToughGaurd TG6607.
Oil analyzers Inc flagged the fuel dilution.

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3.4% fuel is bad news although the rest of the UOA is fine, so no harm done. First question is do you get any smoke at hot idle or spend a lot of time stuck in traffic or short tripping?
If you do a few longer highway trips the fuel should evaporate, but as the normal limit is 2% I kind of thing something might be wrong with the injection system. It might be worth thinking about using a direct feed fuel injector cleaner to see if that helps lower the figure.
Are you using an OEM fuel filter and good quality fuel, as they are the main reasons for damaged or gummed injectors, along with simply not using the engine at least once a month?
If you can get the fuel contamination below 2%, then the OCI could be extended.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: skyship
3.4% fuel is bad news although the rest of the UOA is fine, so no harm done. First question is do you get any smoke at hot idle or spend a lot of time stuck in traffic or short tripping?
If you do a few longer highway trips the fuel should evaporate, but as the normal limit is 2% I kind of thing something might be wrong with the injection system. It might be worth thinking about using a direct feed fuel injector cleaner to see if that helps lower the figure.
Are you using an OEM fuel filter and good quality fuel, as they are the main reasons for damaged or gummed injectors, along with simply not using the engine at least once a month?
If you can get the fuel contamination below 2%, then the OCI could be extended.



Its an engine quirk. Mazda DI is known to dilute their oils a bit. Any UOA on this website attests to that. Almost all of them show the oil between 6~7 cST @ 100C. Some even show dilution in the 5 cST ranges. The wear always looks good though. Makes me believe something I read on some Mazda forums a bit ago, one of the dealership techs mentioned that these engines are broken in from the factory, this helps it work well with the thinner oil they spec for the US and Canada markets I guess.
 
Originally Posted By: bourne
looks excellent ! What all oils have you used in it so far ?


She bought it new and I've used Kendall 0W20 and Fram TG oil filters exclusively. I'm no fan of Fram, but they at least listed something that correctly fit. Wix and Purolater listed the wrong filter for the Skyactiv engine initially. The first oil & filter change wasn't a fun experience.
 
Another good viewing for kendall! I'm using it in my ecoboost with good results as well. I wouldnt change a thing. The tough guard is a good filter but a lot of people will knock its cardboard ends and not having metal.
 
Originally Posted By: skyactiv
Originally Posted By: bourne
looks excellent ! What all oils have you used in it so far ?


She bought it new and I've used Kendall 0W20 and Fram TG oil filters exclusively. I'm no fan of Fram, but they at least listed something that correctly fit. Wix and Purolater listed the wrong filter for the Skyactiv engine initially. The first oil & filter change wasn't a fun experience.
Look for the Fram Ultra for that engine. One of the best filters on the market.
 
I think I am going to stick with OEM filters for now. Although I have heard/read that Purolator L14612/PL14612/PSL14612 will work with the skyactiv engine. Its just terribly easy for me to get OEM filters through work.
 
Was the car on the highway prior to the oil change? In other words, was the engine nice and hot, and did it have a chance to burn off the excess fuel? Or did you just "drive it around the block" before changing the oil?

Wear metals look good, though the viscosity is approaching the lower limit, which makes the 5k change seem just about right.

Thanks for sharing.
 
Originally Posted By: k24a4
Was the car on the highway prior to the oil change? In other words, was the engine nice and hot, and did it have a chance to burn off the excess fuel? Or did you just "drive it around the block" before changing the oil?

Wear metals look good, though the viscosity is approaching the lower limit, which makes the 5k change seem just about right.

Thanks for sharing.



This is a DI engine, getting rid of the fuel is difficult and the cause of the low viscosity.
 
Originally Posted By: volk06

This is a DI engine, getting rid of the fuel is difficult and the cause of the low viscosity.


Yeah, if it were me I'd run a thicker grade viscosity. Is 5w30 acceptable per the manual? I really don't understand why people run high VI 0w oils except perhaps in the winter.
 
Originally Posted By: walk23
High fuel dilution. Right oil. Wrong fuel delivery system.


No, a different fuel delivery system. DI engines do have dilution as a side effect. Whether it's a problem or just an occurance will take time to figure out. See Dnewton3's thread on EcoBoost engines. Until we learn more history on DI, I would stick to the mfrs. recommended drain interval and continue UOA.
 
Dilution can be reduced in these engines. My uoa showed no signs of it with the same engine.
 
Originally Posted By: AITG
Originally Posted By: walk23
High fuel dilution. Right oil. Wrong fuel delivery system.


No, a different fuel delivery system. DI engines do have dilution as a side effect. Whether it's a problem or just an occurance will take time to figure out. See Dnewton3's thread on EcoBoost engines. Until we learn more history on DI, I would stick to the mfrs. recommended drain interval and continue UOA.


I agree. The manu's most definitely would have run a lot of UOAs among other longevity tests while developing these engines.
 
What about using a thicker 20W like M1 5W-20 to combat dilution?

Or possibly some ratio of TGMO or Mazda OEM oil blended with M1 0W-40 to achieve a slightly higher viscosity while preserving a high VI for economy's sake?
 
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