additive suggestions?

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I'm currently running RL 5W-40 in a 2000 LS1 V-8 (all alloy GM late model, for those who don't know). Should I even bother with anything else (LC,LM Cera Tec, Oil Extreme, etc.)?? Will the moly based suppliments "poison" my engine with too much moly (given the very high dose already in the RL)? I am not looking to increase the viscosity at any temp as it is borderline too high now with the RL, just reduce friction to the max possible. Comments/suggestions/leave it alone??
 
RL I wouldn't add anything to. Thats an expensive oil and quite different than off the shelf stuff.

If you want an additive, try running some Lucas UCL in your gas tank. Seems like good stuff with my MPG tracking.
 
quote:

Originally posted by dailydriver:
I am not looking to increase the viscosity at any temp as it is borderline too high now with the RL

I can't imagine that oil needing much help. Why don't you blend the viscosity down a bit?

You will use 100gallons of gas for every gallon of oil you buy. You should consider adding something to it for continuous cleaning and lubrication.
 
Do not add anything run UOA's every 3-5K and work from there additives are NOT needed no matter what everyone on this site says.

Any one on this site that blends and formulates and truly knows his shxt should agree on this, additives are not neccessary period end of story.

If you use ANY good quality oil even walmart stuff I have no problem with that to 5-7K OCI.
With a properly tested UOA's.

Additives are a feel good do nothing deal mostly can not hurt but take the $20 and buy a good bottle of wine and relax.

Kinda like hanging dingle balls all around the cab headliner of a pickup truck will do nothing but if it makes you happy OK.

All the additives you need are put in for you so stop trying to do better than the formulator of the oil.

Also I know the Formulator at RL and he forgot more than I remember it is avery good oil and second to none trust me on that so be happy.

Rant Off Flame suit on.
do not care
bruce
 
Yeah Bruce! I would cringe to see additives put in Redline. But I do like my dingle balls, and so will put zddp booster additives in all my other oils--but not the Redline! I figure if abour 1500 ppm zinc and phosphorus is good enough for Redline, then it's good enough for any other oil.
 
quote:

do not care

Yes you do!
smile.gif


However, I understood everything until you made this statement.

quote:

the Formulator at RL and he forgot more than I remember

What do you mean with this?
 
quote:

Originally posted by Winston:

quote:

do not care

Yes you do!
smile.gif


However, I understood everything until you made this statement.

quote:

the Formulator at RL and he forgot more than I remember

What do you mean with this?


I'm guessing he meant, "he forgot more than I'll ever know about this stuff", right? BTW, thanks everyone for the responses. it seems everyone here is always adding/mixing something in/to their oil, but I now realize that's only to the "lesser" stuff, not GC/S2K/RL/Motul, etc. For those that suggest fuel additives; I do use Amsoil PI now, may try the RL SI again (or the FP) in the future.
 
No he has forgot more stuff about blending and PCMO race oils etc than I currently remember
lol.gif
lol.gif


Tall Paul: I have to back off here since I sent you a "basic" compatible ZDDP package you CAN add it to any oil even RL and It will help to enhance wear and oxidation protection BUT RL needs no help I should have prefaced that better I'm happy again.
bruce
 
bruce381, are you hittin' the vino and posting formulating gems again ?
lol.gif


Additives for me are correction fluids to compensate for weakness in the unit or chemistry and use verified through analysis.

Sometimes I find that a oil formula works well with no correction but Specialty Formulations would be the only consumer available product that meets that standard. Cost and corner cutting for marketing reasons affect most other OTS fluids.

I do agree with bruce381 that starting with the chosen oil and getting a trend on that alone is a good idea. However it is just a matter of time before cleaning internally is needed to optimize the application whatever the chemistry is. Oil analysis properly interpreted can ID that very accurately.


Sincerely, Terry straight up,no ZDDP, just Auto-RX and LC.
cheers.gif
 
quote:

Originally posted by bruce381:
I have to back off here since I sent you a "basic" compatible ZDDP package you CAN add it to any oil even RL and It will help to enhance wear and oxidation protection BUT RL needs no help
bruce


Will you share that with the rest of us?
 
Terry, I think you nailed it with your "just a matter of time" observation on keeping an engine clean.

Let's face it -- combustion is a dirty process. Additives like LC and ARX are ideal solutions for managing your engine's health. Both Frank at Auto-RX and the folks at Lube Control deserve some serious kudos for making products available that help with that.

My personal preference is to run a 3-ounce maintenance dose of ARX. Others choose LC. Either method will extend your engine life, and that's something all BITOGERs can relate to.
 
Look i do not like any extra addtives.

I sent tallpaul a full blown add pak for juiceing his oils.

That said UOA at a set interval using the same oil over a period of time will show the maximium life of said oil and a additve will/may show a improvement IMHO it is not needed.

I think that the effect if any of any of the popular additives here are due to as much as the frequent oil chnages with a dino oil as to the additves. Aswell as bad testing in that there is NO real like side bye side comparisons.

That said popular additives here will do not harm and some good but IMHO are not needed.

Let me also say that the popular additves talked about here would have shown better perfromance with older lesser PCMO's like SG etc but now with SL amd SM they have lost some of the performance advantage since new oils are so much better than before.

As an old Chevron research fellow told me "keep it clean and change it offten" rules to live by.
bruce
 
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