Ultra and Royal Purple

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Originally Posted By: buster
I have nothing against boutique oils, but put up or shut up. Don't show me timken or 4-ball wear tests. Show me something inside an actual engine or show me approvals otherwise it's all marketing. It took Amsoil 7 years since Mobil did their Vegas study to produce a similar study. They even acknowledged the relevance of "real engine" testing.

FWIW, RP's oils contained 3x the allowable amount of sulfur per API guidelines. RP makes some excellent oils, but I don't think they have any advantage over any other brand.

I criticized RL because it barely passed one of the tests required by the API. Isn't that something one should criticize a brand for, especially when paying $11qt and using it in a daily driver?


Buster,

You obviously in your life time have NEVER tore down an engine in a street application or race application. Me,I've done it.Quite frankly you people that base everything on UOA's,latest videos on YOUTUBE,etc. on this website dont clearly get the whole picture.
I've said as short as a few weeks ago,seen a engine tore apart that EXCLUSIVELY ran RP HPS motor oil that was in excellent condition. But I guess I should've taken it upon myself to show "poof" as the god's of bob is the oilguy wouldnot believe otherwise.

You see there are people who use oils every day,in both street and race applications.and have "0" issues in tear-downs etc.I'm sorry they dont all have a membership on BITOG to prove to you and many others,that an oil is indeed good wether is be RP,Redline or others that constantly get bashed on this website. Quite honestly, I've had this EXACT conversation with others WHO have left this website for the same basic reasons,because they are tired of the oil bashing that continually goes on and on without any sort of factual data that shows it's a bad oil.
 
I have UOA's which IS better than "my brother's friend's mechanic" lame [censored] that the RP haters spout here. I have my data..WHERE IS YOURS? Boy? Anybody?
My M1 samples were posted here and showed over 73PPM of iron. They are here..search! M1 SL SM was HORRIBLE for me on more that one sample. It is JUNK in my application along with Valvoline
Lettme guess. UOA's are a poor indicator. WELL SON, YOU HAVE ANYTHING BETTER? Boy, search bubba, my data has ALREADY been posted here. WERE IS YOURS?? I'm WAITING?
YES, HEMI I AGREE
Bottom line: M1 SL SM and Valvo SUCKED in more than one piece of equipment..My truck, car, 80hp tractor.
 
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Originally Posted By: DragRace
Originally Posted By: buster
I have nothing against boutique oils, but put up or shut up. Don't show me timken or 4-ball wear tests. Show me something inside an actual engine or show me approvals otherwise it's all marketing. It took Amsoil 7 years since Mobil did their Vegas study to produce a similar study. They even acknowledged the relevance of "real engine" testing.

FWIW, RP's oils contained 3x the allowable amount of sulfur per API guidelines. RP makes some excellent oils, but I don't think they have any advantage over any other brand.

I criticized RL because it barely passed one of the tests required by the API. Isn't that something one should criticize a brand for, especially when paying $11qt and using it in a daily driver?


Buster,

You obviously in your life time have NEVER tore down an engine in a street application or race application. Me,I've done it.Quite frankly you people that base everything on UOA's,latest videos on YOUTUBE,etc. on this website dont clearly get the whole picture.
I've said as short as a few weeks ago,seen a engine tore apart that EXCLUSIVELY ran RP HPS motor oil that was in excellent condition. But I guess I should've taken it upon myself to show "poof" as the god's of bob is the oilguy wouldnot believe otherwise.

You see there are people who use oils every day,in both street and race applications.and have "0" issues in tear-downs etc.I'm sorry they dont all have a membership on BITOG to prove to you and many others,that an oil is indeed good wether is be RP,Redline or others that constantly get bashed on this website. Quite honestly, I've had this EXACT conversation with others WHO have left this website for the same basic reasons,because they are tired of the oil bashing that continually goes on and on without any sort of factual data that shows it's a bad oil.


And the most hillarious part is if you do actually post something showing RP did a great job it STILL gets shouted down and ignored. For instance the RP vs M1 Mustang cam wear thread where the RP clearly outperformed the M1 but all the RP haters twisted and turned it in every way possible to try and discredit or minimize what your eyes clearly showed.

The bottom line is there are RP haters here on BITOG and NOTHING will ever sway them. If God himself came down and said RP was good they would not believe it.
 
The old "with Synerlec" API SL oil was very good.
The current API SN oil seems to be nothing special for the money.
I'd use PP, PU or M1 instead, although you could use RP with no fear of excess wear or deposits.
You'd pay more, though.
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
The current API SN oil seems to be nothing special for the money.


And your basis for this is??? Just curious what you are making that claim on.

Originally Posted By: fdcg27
I'd use PP, PU or M1 instead, although you could use RP with no fear of excess wear or deposits.
You'd pay more, though.


RP can be had for the same or less than those oils in 5 qt jugs from Wal-Mart if you buy on sale. PepBoys for instance routinely has deals for RP oils w/ RP filters where the oil ends up $5-$6 or even less p/qt. When you compare qt bottle to qt bottle cost the new API RP oils run in the same approx price range as the brands you talk of which is $9-$10. Sometimes it is a little less and sometimes a little more.

Bottom line is this price negativity is just unfounded. If you want to run RP you absolutely can get it for a reasonable cost and at times less than the regular name brand oils even in 5qt jugs at Wal-Mart which is the BITOG holy grail.
 
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My 300+k miles LS400 had various brand name and house brand dino's at 7-8k OCI, it also had various synthetic brand names with 13-15k OCI, it never had any boutique oil. The engine is still running great without any oil related problem. As it is now, I think the engine will lasted 400-500k miles easily with any API oil, but everything else is falling apart.

For daily drive at reasonable speed (below 100-120 MPH on highway) almost any brand name (even house brand) oil will be more than sufficient to protect the engine, as long as OCI is reasonable.
 
no BiTOG member with half a brain spends "$9-$10" per quart for most all of the big name full synthetic oils when WalMart has them for $22.47 per 5qt. jug - that is less than $4.50 a quart, so why exaggerate? (i.e. B.S.)
 
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
My 300+k miles LS400 had various brand name and house brand dino's at 7-8k OCI, it also had various synthetic brand names with 13-15k OCI, it never had any boutique oil. The engine is still running great without any oil related problem. As it is now, I think the engine will lasted 400-500k miles easily with any API oil, but everything else is falling apart.

For daily drive at reasonable speed (below 100-120 MPH on highway) almost any brand name (even house brand) oil will be more than sufficient to protect the engine, as long as OCI is reasonable.


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Originally Posted By: DragRace
Originally Posted By: buster
I have nothing against boutique oils, but put up or shut up. Don't show me timken or 4-ball wear tests. Show me something inside an actual engine or show me approvals otherwise it's all marketing. It took Amsoil 7 years since Mobil did their Vegas study to produce a similar study. They even acknowledged the relevance of "real engine" testing.

FWIW, RP's oils contained 3x the allowable amount of sulfur per API guidelines. RP makes some excellent oils, but I don't think they have any advantage over any other brand.

I criticized RL because it barely passed one of the tests required by the API. Isn't that something one should criticize a brand for, especially when paying $11qt and using it in a daily driver?


Buster,

You obviously in your life time have NEVER tore down an engine in a street application or race application. Me,I've done it.Quite frankly you people that base everything on UOA's,latest videos on YOUTUBE,etc. on this website dont clearly get the whole picture.
I've said as short as a few weeks ago,seen a engine tore apart that EXCLUSIVELY ran RP HPS motor oil that was in excellent condition. But I guess I should've taken it upon myself to show "poof" as the god's of bob is the oilguy wouldnot believe otherwise.

You see there are people who use oils every day,in both street and race applications.and have "0" issues in tear-downs etc.I'm sorry they dont all have a membership on BITOG to prove to you and many others,that an oil is indeed good wether is be RP,Redline or others that constantly get bashed on this website. Quite honestly, I've had this EXACT conversation with others WHO have left this website for the same basic reasons,because they are tired of the oil bashing that continually goes on and on without any sort of factual data that shows it's a bad oil.


You may be right. And yes, I have not torn down any engines so I don't have experience related to that. I don't know much about RP HPS. What types of engines are you referring to where you have seen a significant improvement over a off-shelf brand, just curious?
 
Originally Posted By: LScowboy
no BiTOG member with half a brain spends "$9-$10" per quart for most all of the big name full synthetic oils when WalMart has them for $22.47 per 5qt. jug - that is less than $4.50 a quart, so why exaggerate? (i.e. B.S.)


Clearly you don't know what oil costs unless it comes from Wal-Mart in a 5qt jug. Newsflash. Not every person buys their oil at Wal-Mart. Also, there was no exaggerating or [censored] on my part. I leave that for folks such as yourself.
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Not everyone wants or needs 5qts of oil at a time. Many people buy oil by the qt for a variety of reasons. Maybe they only need 1 qt? Maybe they only have a 4 qt sump and don't want to have part containers of oil left over? Maybe they don't like Wal-Mart and won't shop there? Whatever the reason may be not everyone buys oil in 5 qt jugs at Wal-Mart. So a price comaprison buying oil by the qt is not crazy nor is anyone, be they a BITOG member or not, for buying oil by the qt.

There is nothing wrong with comparing the p/qt cost of RP to the name brands when purchased in idividual bottles. They are sold that way so it is a 100% valid comparison. When you compare RP by the bottle to the name brand synthetics by the bottle you see that the RP( API stuff not HPS or XPR )is right there in that same $9-$10 p/qt price range. Whether or not you want to admit it or not that IS what M1, PP/PU, VVL, etc... cost per qt bottle at most all parts stores. QSUD and Kendall GT1 are a little less.

I have done the price comparisons on here before and at some stores the RP is the most expensive and at others it isn't when comparing qt bottle prices. They all come out within $0.50-$1 of each other though and that is pretty even. For example I just checked AAP for 5W30. RP was $9.79. M1-EP was $9.59. M1, PP/PU, and VVL were $8.99. So as I said alll in the $9-$10 range. pricing is similar at AZ, PB, OR, etc...

What can I say. RP isn't sold in 5 qt jugs at Wal-Mart so I can't comapre that in anyway. However I will bring this up to further prove a point I made. I took advantage of the last PepBoys deal on RP oil and got my 2 deals. 5 qts of RP oil w/ an RP Oil filter for $35 = $70. Then I had a $10 Rewards coupon so that saved me another $10 so I paid just $60 for 10 qts of RP and 2 RP oil filters = $30 for an OC.

RP filters run $15 each as a rule. Even if you only take off $10 for the filter that means the 5 qts of oil were just $20 which is $4 a qt so less than your Wal-Mart 5 qt jug of M1. I can buy RP by the bottle from a couple local speed shops here for $7.50-$8 a qt which is less than the name brands by the qt as well. I have options to get RP for reasonable costs here.

So everything I posted is 100% factual. Twist it all you want but numbers don't lie unlike some here at BITOG.
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I was able to get my RP Synerlec for $6 a quart back in the day :^) If I could get the HPS for that price I`d use it for life. But,my source had a falling out with their distributor,and no longer sell/carry RP products :^( They also sold Max Gear and Synchromax for $6 a quart too. They still made a profit selling at these prices. Just goes to show how ridiculous autoparts chains mark stuff up.
 
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Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
I was able to get my RP Synerlec for $6 a quart back in the day :^) If I could get the HPS for that price I`d use it for life. But,my source had a falling out with their distributor,and no longer sell/carry RP products :^( They also sold Max Gear and Synchromax for $6 a quart too.


Military Post Exchange has HPS at $8/qt.
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Originally Posted By: NHHEMI
One thing for is sure, you have come to the wrong place for feedback on Royal Purple if you want answers that are based on anything that isn't ridiculous from more than 1 or 2 people. 90%+ of the feedback here will be negative and from people who have never used RP. They don't like it because it is purple and because it isn't sold for $20 in 5 gal jugs at Wal-Mart so it has to be bad. You will also hear that there are tons of bad UOA's with it here but that is just untrue.

If you browse the many auto forums out there you will see RP is very highly regarded from folks who actually use it. It is treated like a redheaded stepchild here at BITOG though. For a place supposedly full of intelligent people who know oil you will get a lot of ignorant, foolish, and downright false info on RP here from the naysayers.

Expand your search out to other forums besides BITOG for feedback on RP if you want to get unbiased and factual feedback from actual users.


AMEN.
 
RP is overhyped and overpriced. Four years ago BP caught them with their pants down and proved that their Castrol products performed just as well as Royal Purple's:

http://www.imakenews.com/lng/e_article001398592.cfm

I hear Royal Purple has changed ownership and judging from PQIA's latest test, it seems that they have slipped even more. I would choice Mobil and Pennzoil without hesitation over RP. Plus both are a lot cheaper with Walmart's everyday prices or Pep Boys $30 deals.
 
Originally Posted By: kajunman
I use Penzoil Ultra 10W-30 in my Focus after break in. How does it compare to Royal Purple 10W-30?

Thanks in advance,

kajunman


Assuming th break-in occurred during the last 10 or so model years, neither meets the specification for Ford's manufacturer's warranty, so I'd say they were equally bad.
 
That article is over 4 years old. You are kidding me. Mobil called BP out on the GIII not being "true" synthetic. What do they do. Mobil goes to GIII themselves. Talk about losing credibility. Is the kettle BLACK?
FYI Amsoil tested oils and it showed M1 as average at BEST..
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I guess that makes it truth..lol
 
Originally Posted By: DrDusty86
That article is over 4 years old. You are kidding me. Mobil called BP out on the GIII not being "true" synthetic. What do they do. Mobil goes to GIII themselves. Talk about losing credibility. Is the kettle BLACK?
FYI Amsoil tested oils and it showed M1 as average at BEST..
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I guess that makes it truth..lol


Actually your info is not correct. But then this is the internet, so what does it matter.
 
From the article that he posted above RP must be junk. Tig, What isn't correct?
Mobil took BP to court didn't they? Mobil sued BP saying they now cheapened the base stocks and STILL called it synthetic, right? Tigs fill me in buddy, if you know what went down homie
 
Mobil WAS GIV synthetic aka a real synthetic. Now is a highly refined dino oil AKA a GIII. Right? Mobil 1 went to a cheaper base stocks, right? YET they idn't reduce the price, right?
Tig, Facts?
 
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