Any fix for sloppy gear shift on a manual trans ?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Sep 12, 2004
Messages
24,362
Location
Central Florida
I notice on older Hondas with manual transmissions that the gear lever gets very sloppy and has lots of play when it is in gear or in Neutral. The gears don't grind but just lots play in the gear lever.

Any fix for sloppy gear shift lever on a manual trans ?
 
Do they have shifter bushings that wear out over time? Z32's have plastic ones that do. When mine got that way,I replaced the plastic ones with bronze ones.
 
Originally Posted By: LT4 Vette
I notice on older Hondas with manual transmissions that the gear lever gets very sloppy and has lots of play when it is in gear or in Neutral.

Yep, very common. Honda sells a kit to fix this problem, about $50 or so. Easy to do, but really fiddly due to lack of room under there.

Below is why it happens:
There are rubber "washers", plus plastic "top hats", and a few other parts that make up the bushing kit.
shifter_sketch.jpg


In this photo, shifter is turned sideways so that it's easier to re-and-re the bushings.
You can see the new "top hats" partially pressed in place, one on either side. There's a dab of yellowish silicone grease inside the front top hat. The engine side of the linkage can be seen sitting just below the shifter, on the exhaust heat-shield.
P7210886.JPG


In this image, I'm demonstrating the use of a small C-clamp to press the new sleeve and O-rings into the shifter tube.
The NEW sleeve does not yet have its O-rings. The OLD sleeve is being used as a fulcrum to press the new in place, but would have its O-rings REMOVED before use!
P7210881.JPG


P7210874.JPG


More images here, numbered in the order they were taken:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/bushing_kit/
Take a look at them all. Too many to post here.
This is one of those web pages I never got around to working on, so I just threw the pictures up in a Misc directory.

And lastly... Occasionally the cross-bolt can work loose. It's not supposed to do that, of course, but since it's hard to get leverage on the bolt, it's possible to undertorque it when installing. If somebody's already replaced the bushings once, check the bolt for looseness before condemning the bushings themselves!
 
Last edited:
I replaced a pair of shifter bushings (located on the underside of the chassis, one just below the shifter and another at the transmission) on my 2000 Civic sometime around 150k and it made a world of difference. Polyurethane, made by somebody called Energy Suspension IIRC. I similarly replaced a transmission mount on my 2003 Saab with a polyurethane one made by Genuine Saab and it also provided a good improvement.

jeff
 
For those who don't want to look thorough all the photos in my link above, here are a few relevant ones:

New rubber washers, bolt, and nut. Sleeve, top hats, and O-rings not shown, for some reason.
P7210894.JPG


New sleeve with O-rings, smeared in silicone grease
P7210888.JPG


Sleeve inserted into top hats
P7210889.JPG


Shifter turned right way around again to receive engine side of linkage. Rubber washers in place.
P7210895.JPG


Engine side of linkage reconnected.
P7210897.JPG


The hardest part, really, is removing the remains of the old top hats. That and the tight working-space. Even with the heat shield dropped, it's a squeeze. And if you have an aftermarket cat, it may be impossible do perform this operation without separating the exhaust.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: eljefino
32.gif
So how is a honda rod linkage in a FWD when properly set up? Heavenly?

No, rubbery. When I moved from my '82 Corolla to my brand-new Integra back in 1991, I was shocked at how vague and rubbery the Integra's linkage was.

My RWD Corolla had about 150,000 miles on it, and the linkage was still crisp and precise. The Integra's was a disappointment. But I got used to it.
 
Tegger,

Thanks a lot !!!
With 400K miles I'm sure you know what I'm talking about.

My nephew has a 2003 RSX with 200K miles and was asking how to fix the slack. He also has a 1994 Civic DX with the same problem but 300K miles.
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
See if someone makes an aftermarket bronze bushing kit. If so,it`ll be a permanent fix.


I will try and find a place online that sells them.
 
If you think the Honda is bad, drive a Subaru manual transmission.

Its really annoying-


Best transmission shift feel came from my old 1995 BMW M3 (Even with 180K it was crisp)
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: needsducktape
If you think the Honda is bad, drive a Subaru manual transmission.

Its really annoying-


Best transmission shift feel came from my old 1995 BMW M3 (Even with 180K it was crisp)


They certainly made some quick improvements.

Every E30 BMW manual I've ever driven has had a loose and sloppy long throw shifter.
lol.gif
 
The Acura ILX has an incredible gear shifter. Is it rod or cable actuated? Question is whatever technique that is being employed, could it be adapted to the older Hondas?
 
Originally Posted By: Tegger
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
This is what I installed in my car just to give you an idea of what to look for:

http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart/...108.196.234.146

Something like that can allow a lot of vibration through the shift lever. Not everybody would be happy with that. Honda puts all that rubber in there for a reason.


I agree, I went that route with my Triumph using Top Hat 'oil lite' bushings. Gear selection became Too precise, causing me to miss gears.
 
Originally Posted By: Tegger
In this image, I'm demonstrating the use of a small C-clamp to press the new sleeve and O-rings into the shifter tube.
The NEW sleeve does not yet have its O-rings. The OLD sleeve is being used as a fulcrum to press the new in place, but would have its O-rings REMOVED before use!
P7210881.JPG


CORRECTION. My earlier memory was false.

In that image I'm showing the use of the C-clamp to REMOVE the OLD sleeve. The shifter hole would be where the gap is between the deep socket and the C-clamp's left leg. The new sleeve is being used as a drift, which is why it doesn't have the O-rings on it (so it will be loose). The old sleeve is usually stuck in there really, really tight, and cannot be pushed out by hand. As the OLD sleeve is pressed out of the shifter hole, the deep socket receives it. The NEW sleeve is pushed in by hand once the new top hats are installed, as shown in my later photos.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top