What does Liqui-Moly CERATEC do?

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Originally Posted By: Vikas
I said, technically I can understand molly can be helpful and my personal experience confirms that.

On the other hand, adding crushed diamonds or fine particles of titanium or micro particles of ceramics to my engine? I have hard time coming up with rational explanation as to how it would be beneficial. It does not matter that the company peddling this product is trustworthy or the person promoting this product has stellar reputation.


Then we go back to don't use it.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: Vikas
I use their MO2S product and I like it. I liked it even more when it was $4.00 :) Now it costs $8 :-(

I can understand how that molly can be helpful in lubrication purposes.


It is difficult to understand. If you have some time read up on the pros and cons of coating bullets and burnishing barrels with moly. From my own experiences barrels last longer, and clean up easier, you can also shoot more between cleanings. It is claimed moly reduces friction between the bullet and the barrel. Does this time into automotive applications would be the next logical question? I think a nice coat on engine bearings would be of some benefit. I also think it will fill tiny imperfections on cylinder walls if they are present.


Most current aftermarket piston manufacturers put a moly coating, or patch on their piston skirts. I doubt they are doing this for the heck of it, or just for 'marketing purposes'.
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Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: Vikas
I use their MO2S product and I like it. I liked it even more when it was $4.00 :) Now it costs $8 :-(

I can understand how that molly can be helpful in lubrication purposes.


It is difficult to understand. If you have some time read up on the pros and cons of coating bullets and burnishing barrels with moly. From my own experiences barrels last longer, and clean up easier, you can also shoot more between cleanings. It is claimed moly reduces friction between the bullet and the barrel. Does this time into automotive applications would be the next logical question? I think a nice coat on engine bearings would be of some benefit. I also think it will fill tiny imperfections on cylinder walls if they are present.


Most current aftermarket piston manufacturers put a moly coating, or patch on their piston skirts. I doubt they are doing this for the heck of it, or just for 'marketing purposes'.
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You don't have to sell me on it.
 
As DD said, the coatings on pistons are just one example. Moly has been plated on piston rings as well for ages.

The fact that one does not understand the product takes nothing away from it. Nano tech is here to stay, and ordinary stuff can become remarkable at ultra small sizes...
 
aaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrrrrgggggggggggggg why the heck are we discussing molly? there is no controversy about it.

this topic is about ceramics. have you used it in your engine? this goes both to Frank or Steve.
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
aaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrrrrgggggggggggggg why the heck are we discussing molly? there is no controversy about it.

this topic is about ceramics. have you used it in your engine? this goes both to Frank or Steve.


You mentioned moly I mentioned moly. You have a problem with Ceramics, I said don't use it. I stated why I don't use it, where's the problem? These topics drift, you've been here long enough to know that.
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Originally Posted By: Vikas
aaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrrrrgggggggggggggg why the heck are we discussing molly? there is no controversy about it.

this topic is about ceramics. have you used it in your engine? this goes both to Frank or Steve.


No. I have not. I am rarely the first to try anything new.

As stated above, NANO TECH (which relates to the microscopic particles of anything in oils) is here to stay.

I agree it seems counter intuitive, but many things commonly thought to be understood have remarkably different characteristics under a certain size particle.

I would be willing to try almost anything with LM's name on it due to the high quality reputation they have worldwide.
 
Best way to know is to try same oil for same oci:plain oil,then oil+mos2,then oil+ceratech. I had tried both mos2 and ceratech. Not the same ooil but pretty same oci. Wear numbers were lowest with Ceratec on 1mz-fe which was abused by previouis owner. It was better,but not enough to pay extra $20. I may try later on cars in sig, maybe on those engines it will make more difference.
 
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Originally Posted By: MBS500
I may try later on cars in sig, maybe on those engines it will make more difference.


I suspect that your Fiat Turbo will benefit from the Cera-Tec coating; putting it in the newer engines is best for longterm benefits. Have also had good results with the MoS2 in numerous vehicles over the years.
 
graphite is BAD news for a lub ...it wear down like a lapping job and ceramics ....[censored] worst than graphite pour in sand !!!
 
If Liqui Moly is correct, and the Ceratec does last for 50K Kms then it would be fairly economical, especially if it drops fuel consumption in any amount. The question is does it actually fully benefit the engine that long? I've heard that drivers in Germany use it at every oci for maximum benefits. Maybe their oci's are longer than 20K? I have a bottle of Ceratec sitting here which I'm planning on putting in on the next oc. I hope to do 20K kms on oci with M1 ep then, if I like the results plan on using 1/2 a bottle of Ceratec on oci thereafter. Clevy uses it on every second oci, alternating with LM moly. If I'm not happy with Ceratec I will give Lubegard's Bio Tech a shot....
 
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Originally Posted By: dino33
If Liqui Moly is correct, and the Ceratec does last for 50K Kms then it would be fairly economical, especially if it drops fuel consumption in any amount. The question is does it actually fully benefit the engine that long? I've heard that drivers in Germany use it at every oci for maximum benefits. Maybe their oci's are longer than 20K? I have a bottle of Ceratec sitting here which I'm planning on putting in on the next oc. I hope to do 20K kms on oci with M1 ep then, if I like the results plan on using 1/2 a bottle of Ceratec on oci thereafter. Clevy uses it on every second oci, alternating with LM moly. If I'm not happy with Ceratec I will give Lubegard's Bio Tech a shot....



You've misunderstood. I use the ceratec first. Then an interval of just oil,then a full can of mos2,then half a can of mos2 at every oci.
I cannot comment yet on how this has worked out since I've only put 20000 on the hemi.
Once the 4v gets back on the road it will be the real test mule,because its going to be hit with nitrous and still be my dd.
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: dino33
If Liqui Moly is correct, and the Ceratec does last for 50K Kms then it would be fairly economical, especially if it drops fuel consumption in any amount. The question is does it actually fully benefit the engine that long? I've heard that drivers in Germany use it at every oci for maximum benefits. Maybe their oci's are longer than 20K? I have a bottle of Ceratec sitting here which I'm planning on putting in on the next oc. I hope to do 20K kms on oci with M1 ep then, if I like the results plan on using 1/2 a bottle of Ceratec on oci thereafter. Clevy uses it on every second oci, alternating with LM moly. If I'm not happy with Ceratec I will give Lubegard's Bio Tech a shot....



You've misunderstood. I use the ceratec first. Then an interval of just oil,then a full can of mos2,then half a can of mos2 at every oci.
I cannot comment yet on how this has worked out since I've only put 20000 on the hemi.
Once the 4v gets back on the road it will be the real test mule,because its going to be hit with nitrous and still be my dd.


Cheers, keep us updated. Especially interested if you see any fuel mileage increases...
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Dino.
As far as mos2 goes its always led to less fuel consumption.
I'm not sure that cera-tec can help in this regard however that's not why I'm using it. I'm using cera-tec to lessen wear,which I'm confident it does.
147 grain actually linked an article to me about ceratec,and it was tested and proven to lessen or eliminate wear.
I'd love 147 grain to link this thread to that article,I hadn't seen it before however from my own digging I found the theory and idea to be sound,hence my use of it.
Liqui-moly/lubro-moly has proven to me to be a reliable and sturdy company,and I'm confident in their claims of their products. In a market where everything is labelled snake oil their products stand up and prove that they aren't,
Great company,great products.
In regards to cera-tec I had used it in my old 2v in my mustang. When it spit its second plug I decided to go 4v,and ditch the 2v,but I tore the 2v apart to sell in the mustang forums.
The cera-tec actually filled in the wear scar on both cams,and left a layer behind that was so hard I used a nail to try and scratch it to no avail. It would have taken a belt sander to remove the layer cera-tec left behind,which tells me that cera-tec eliminates metal on metal contact,which in my mind eliminates wear.
Just my experience. Your results may vary.
 
This topic reminded me to go get it. I used it and MoS2with good result. Just ordered 8 cans from bav autosport, since they have it for cheapest price- $20 and free shipping if it's more than $150 order.
Anyway people often afraid that it will mess with their plugs.
Will see, will use it with every oil change in FIAT, since it is easy to change plugs and they are due every 32k miles anyway. Correct dosage, little less than full can, and dump rest to bimmer.
Fiat's little engine is little noisy (they all do that), will see maybe it will actually quite it down a little.
 
Is Ceratec this good for worn out engine or only for new engine? I would have no trouble putting liquid sand in my lawn mower provided it came with stellar review :) I have had it with it.
 
I've heard claims that it good for both. New - it covers and protects engine internals - old ones- it fills gaps,scratches and so on and significantly lowers rattle, tapping and so on. Some use it with thick oil before selling half dead car before sale in EU.
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Cera-tec is the ultimate additive.
It works the same as mos2 however it uses nano particles of ceramic to create the barrier and the layer is so hard you need a belt sander to grind it off. I have 6 cans of it and will only use it in a newer engine because its so hard to find.
That is the greatest additive on earth. I love the stuff.
It's better than mos2 and lasts 10 times as long between treatments.


Clevy could you give us an update.

We finally got the 2002 Polaris 325 ATV engine top end torn down and removed the connecting rod after getting 11.5 hours of run time at a fast idle on the engine running Liqui Moly Ceratec in Mobil 1 10w-40 High Mileage engine oil.

We bought this 'project' ATV with a known damaged engine due to being ran bone dry of motor oil when the guy blew an oil cooler line when running down the road. It turned out the crankshaft was chewed up as well as the connecting rod after being ran with the rod inserts spinning in the rod cap.

Picked up a used rod off of eBay and went back with Standard size rod inserts and a new set of rings after we smoothed off the crankshaft some 180 grit emery strips by hand with the crankshaft still in the ATV (did not split the engine case) then hit it a bit with 800 grit paper.

After about 10 total hours of idle time with it setting in an open shop I could hear a knock when getting on the throttle hard at no load.

While there was little hope it would hold up I was surprise after over 11 hours of run time as noted above that it still was making good power and on tear down the rod inserts were getting thinner but had NOT spun and the used connecting rod looked fine after about 11.5 hours. The crankshaft still has groves in it from the initial damage of running without motor oil but the groves now feel smooth in the direction of rotation but are still there if you feel from side to side of the rod journal on the crank.

The test of Liqui Moly Ceratec was a success in that the kids good some wrenching experience after two tear downs and one assembly and we know the Ceratec does lay down a smooth glassy looking coat in places of imperfections on inspecting the cylinder and cam on tear down.

We only had a window of about 6 hours where it was warm enough to tear down and look at the parts after the engine had idled for the 11+ hours with Ceratec in the oil at the rate per Liqui Moly states on the can.

Since Sunday afternoon we have now had two back to back ice storms and currently the lights are blinking and going off from time to time. The rain stopped a couple hours ago but tree limbs are popping as they freeze harder and the wind is getting stronger.

At some point (maybe March) since we are having a 'real' winter for the first time in many years I want to get some photos but not sure I have the equipment to do a good job. The glassy finish (on parts that saw a lot of pressure/friction) may rule out the use of a flash.

I can tell you the piston shirts still looked bad. Keep in mind we put the engine back together with the same 12 year old parts that are OEM except for the used rod and new standard size rings and rod bearings that it had when it was driven without motor oil running down a paved road until the farmer heard the engine knocking over the tire and wind noise.

While the cylinder seems to show some taper from but just the piston skirts it seems Liqui Moly Ceratec will NOT leave a ceramic finish on imperfect parts if the is not real friction/pressure between the moving parts of the engine.

We have picked up a very tight bottom end that includes the crank and connecting rod so when we get ready to 'quit' having fun tearing down and rebuilding we and put it back together with a good crank.

We have proved to ourselves that Liqui Moly Ceratec does as Liqui Moly states on their website. For an engine with a bad crank (rough and slightly under size) to run for 1,000,000 revolutions would be hard to explain with just motor oil in my mind. For the first hour it was a struggle for the engine and I expect that was when it was making a lot of metal.

Our control for the evaluation of Liqui Moly Ceratec is a 2001 with the same 325 Polaris ATV engine. We tore it down and put the same new rod bearings and brand of standard size rings using the same motor oil but the crankshaft was very good and the removed rod bearings showed no measurable wear after 13 years of a much harder life than of the 2002 until it blew the oil cooler hose.

The cylinder temps of the 2002 with the bad crank during the first hour of running hit 350F degrees the 2001 as our 'control' never went over 300F degrees but it only was idled for about one hour.

I guess we will put Ceratec in the 'control' ATV at some point but it will be after our Mini Ice Age.
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Originally Posted By: GaleHawkins
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Cera-tec is the ultimate additive.
It works the same as mos2 however it uses nano particles of ceramic to create the barrier and the layer is so hard you need a belt sander to grind it off. I have 6 cans of it and will only use it in a newer engine because its so hard to find.
That is the greatest additive on earth. I love the stuff.
It's better than mos2 and lasts 10 times as long between treatments.


The test of Liqui Moly Ceratec was a success .... and we know the Ceratec does lay down a smooth glassy looking coat in places of imperfections on inspecting the cylinder and cam on tear down .... with Ceratec in the oil at the rate per Liqui Moly states on the can.

We have proved to ourselves that Liqui Moly Ceratec does as Liqui Moly states on their website. For an engine with a bad crank (rough and slightly under size) to run for 1,000,000 revolutions would be hard to explain with just motor oil in my mind. For the first hour it was a struggle for the engine and I expect that was when it was making a lot of metal.

Our control for the evaluation of Liqui Moly Ceratec is a 2001 with the same 325 Polaris ATV engine. We tore it down and put the same new rod bearings and brand of standard size rings using the same motor oil but the crankshaft was very good and the removed rod bearings showed no measurable wear after 13 years of a much harder life than of the 2002 until it blew the oil cooler hose.


Thank-you for the feedback. I use this stuff in all my vehicles and agree that it performs as advertised.
 
Wow Gale,that's what I call real world data.
I had ceratec in my old sohc 4.6 that I decided to tear apart because it spit a plug. Engine had 200k or so,with at least 50 15 pound bottles of nitrous sprayed through it,some of it at a 175hp wet shot.
My stock cams felt like new. I had ceratec in for about 50k,then mos2 after ceratec at a half dose.
With 3.90 gears that mustang with the sohc 4.6 got 26mpg on the highway. In the city it got substantially less however I would enjoy myself from just about every stop light.
That car ran a 12.76 on drag radials and a 125hp shot. It was roasting the tires all the way down the track. It was a lot of fun.
I've got a 4v in that car now.
So you've gotten a lot further as far as data with tear downs. I won't have another one til I change out the chev's 5.3 in about 100k or so. It's still running like a dream so no point ripping it apart yet.
Thanks for the update Gale. It's nice to know for sure that liqui-moly is a stand up real company who sells products that perform as advertised.
They always have for me but anecdotes don't go far here.
Heck I tracked mileage in my charger for 10k miles and even my updates were questioned and I was called a liar,which really made no sense to me. It's not like I profit by selling any of their stuff.
 
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