Switch to Synthetic?

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Hello

I've been lurking around for about a month now. These forums are full of very knowledgeable people. I apologies if this is a stupid question. I'm hesitant in doing it with out hearing what people have to say.

I've been doing a lot of search for the past 2 weeks. First the details. I have a 99 Acura 3.2 TL with 107,000 miles and I'd like the car to last another 107,000 if not more. I've changed the oil using Castrol GTX 5w30 between 3k - 4k. I just switched to Pennzoil high mileage 5w30 when the car went over 100k.

Let me know if this makes sense.

I would first do two Auto-RX treatments using dino before I should switch to a synthetic. I don't want any leaks so should I even bother switching to a full synthetic or am I better off with a high mileage oil?
Thanks
 
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The high mileage would be fine if you plan on sticking with the 3-4K change interval. The auto-rx is a "must". I would only use synthetics if you plan on extending your change interval, maybe double it with a good synthetic. If you're apprehensive about increased OCIs, then take a UOA at the normal change interval and see whats left of the oil and how the wear numbers look.

I'm no expert, but from what I've read hear over a period of time, this seems fairly universal. There is a clear path to longevity on most well-maintained engines. You're already far down the road to good maintenance.

Others with more knowledge/experience than I have sould chime in soon.
 
Hello, 99tl. Switching to a synthetic will be just fine after your Auto-Rx threatments. However, you should also considder using a maintenance-dose(3oz). This will ensure that no leaks will occure and will also ensure your engine being sparkling clean inside. A maintenance-dose of Auto-Rx is even more important if you use mineral oil(I would say it is a must, but that's just my opinion). I have tested several synthetics; Mobil1, Amsoil, Catrol(TXT and Syntec), Shell, Esso and royal Purple. The one I found performed best, is Royal Purple. I have also read some good tests of Scheaffers. I would have tried this one too, if it were available here in Norway. However, all these synthetics are good ones, so you will not go wrong here.
 
If I were you, (knowing now, what I wished I knew then)
1. Do the two complete cycles of A-Rx
clean/rinse/clean/rinse--use 10w-30 Dino
2. Do an additional 3,000 mi "rinse" on 10w- 30 Dino
Step 2 will allow the seals an extra period to harden/seal.

3. Switch to syn
 
Thanks for the quick response. I'm going to place my order for the A-RX right now.

And yes unfortunately my car is the auto. I just completed my third flush and fill x3 using the Honda tranny fluid. I'm lucky though because my car has the 4 speed auto which doesn't have the same problems as the 5 speed.

I hope this isn't to broad a question but do you have any other recommendations? I just changed my brake fluid. What about fuel injector cleaners? I use the Lucas at every oil change.
 
Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but it's the 4 speed auto's that had the first set of major problems and then the 5 speed autos had the second set of problems, 2nd gear would totally burn out. You have the 6th generation transmission, which Honda has issued a voluntary extened warranty, 5 years or 100K.
You don't have to totally flush/rinse the trans. like Honda recommends. At every other OCI, just drop the 3 quarts out of it and replace it with 3 new quarts.
 
Castrol GTX is a good oil, I'd stick with it and that OCI regimen that your using. Don't fall for the HM oil fluff, most of them are the same oil as their weights it's just that they are little more thicker and may have slightly more amounts of additives in them. I'm a firm believer in if it ain't broke, don't fix it. That Honda engine is a good one and should serve you well past 200K. The clear path to longevity is not dogging the engine all the time and a standard, religiously applied OCI along with other changes....trans., air filter, clean throttle body, etc. etc.
I had a '90 Cierra with a V6 that I just sold with over 200K trouble free miles following that principle. The only reason I sold it was that 15 years in the same vehicle was enough. My wifes 02 Accord 3.0 V6 turned 105K and I'm not changing anything...6K OCI's with M1 5W-30, ATF dropped everyother OCI. I'd be way more concerned with the transmission on that car, if it is a auto, then I would the engine.
 
I ordered the Auto Rx yesterday but I'm changing the oil this weekend. So, should I switch to Castrol GTX 10w30 with a fram filter (I bought a 4 pack from a wholesale club). I'm still trying to understand the whole oil weight thing. The information in the site is a little overwhelming.

I also have an Acura MDX with 50k that I plan to run a clean and rinse and then switch to synthetic. My wife drives the car and she's not very good about reminding me that the car needs an oil change. She doesn't drive the car much. So, if I can get away with 7,500 OCI (twice a year) why not. I'm also going to change the air filter, and tranny fluid.
 
The Castrol GTX 10W30 sounds good, just pour in the Auto-Rx when it comes in and start the clock on the cleaning cycle then. Probably wouldn't change the filter since it'll be essetially new when the A-Rx goes in.

On the MDX, your plan sounds good. Definately switch to synthetic on this one, then you won't worry so much if the wife forgets for a little while. Try to stick with the 7,500 mile OCI and if it slips a little on synthetic, it won't be so bad.
 
search forum for posts on Fram oil filters...you may want to switch brands...hope those are not the Frams with the Frying Pan Teflon?
cheap is not always better especially with the $3000 plus price tag on high tech engine rebuilds nowdays

Mobil 1 full PAO syn 0w20 or 5w30 perform well in the HMC designed engines...many of the top UOA's posted to forum
I run Mobil 1 in both of wife's Honda/Acuras with 10k OCI's and Purolator filters, LC in the oil for extra antioxidants and FP in the gas for fuel system cleaning...search forum for LC and FP
 
99tl, the "oil weight thing" is about viscosity.

When looking at the second number, i.e., the "30" in a 10w-30, the thicker the oil at operating temperatures (and remember it is THINNEST at operating temperatures), the higher that number. A 40 weight is thicker at 200 degrees F than the 30 weight. (The viscosity is measured in Centi-stokes...exactly what that means isn't important, just so that you know the higher the Cst, the thicker the oil at that temperature)

It's a little different at the other end, the "XW" end. The "10w" stops flowing at a given extreme cold temp. The "5w" still flows at that temp, and can go a little lower before it stops flowing. The "0w" still flows at a lower temp, and can go a bit lower. HOWEVER, there are 0w oils that are THICKER than 5w oils when still below normal operating temperatures! German Castrol (green) 0w-30 is THICKER at all temperatures than most any 5w-30(other than at VERY low temps, where the 5w doesn't flow at all, and the GC 0w still flows). And, the GC 0-30 is so thick at operating temps, that it is ALMOST a 40 weight!

So, the message is, the first number simply tells a range when the oil gets so thick it quits flowing at all. The second number tells you the relative viscosity of the oil at normal operating temperatures, higher numbered oils (40) don't flow as easily as the lower numbered oils (30, or even thinner, a 20), just like at the cold-end of the spectrum....all these oils are much thinner when warm than when cold.

One more thing: Thicker isn't better. Using the thinnest oil for your application will yield the highest flow and therefore best cooling effects on the moving parts. Plus, you might get better MPG using thinner oils, for obvious reasons.
 
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