New Mazda3 'Skyactive'

[pbm]

One of my sister-in-laws just got a new red Mazda3 with the Skyactive engine...... It's too new to know what the MPGs will be but I really like the car and the color....very sharp.

The Owners manual states 0w20 and recommends using the dealer for OCs.

I'm not sure what her plan is but I'm sure many people will NOT use the dealer and will get regular 5w20 when they take it to the local garage or Jiffylube.

Do any of you see a problem for those that use 5w20 (dino or syn.) and change it at 5K?

 

[JHZR2]

It all depends upon the driving profile and her driving style. 5w- oils were selected for use generally because of better start-up fuel economy than 10w- oils, and of course they pump and flow a bit better, offering better initial protection. For some it may never be seen, for others it may be very real.

Any bulk garbage at the jiffy lube may not be a good choice, though if the oil meets the requisite specs, it will be suitable.

 

[sciphi]

I'd use the 0w-20. It'll probably deal with any possible fuel dilution and cold-start wear better than a dino 5w-20. My brother darn near had a coronary when his 2012 MZ3 with the Skyactiv engine did its usual 2000 RPM warmup idle on the first really cold day in Buffalo. He thought something had gone seriously wrong because it was 20*F out and the stone-cold engine was idling at 2000 RPM immediately after it caught. It's normal, but a bit disconcerting.

 

[pbm]

Personally, I think that any SN rated 5w20 changed at regular intervals will work fine except in the extremes of Alaska or northern Canada. It does state that 5w20 (and I think it even mentioned 5w30) can be used in Mexico. There was also a Castrol symbol in the manual but I forget exactly what it said.

 

[Rolla07]

Not familiar with the skyactive mazdas, but why not just put in the 0w20 and change as per dealer guidelines? I doubt 5w20 would hurt but id stick with what is advised during the warranty period. My corolla idles at 2000 rpm when its first started as well. Normal according to the dealer, but its a good reason to run the 0w20 which may circulate faster, keeping the engine protected.

 

[coolbird101]

The only possible (unlikely issue) would be if an oiling issue came about during warranty and they asked for invoices of oil changes. Showing all 5w/20 changes when 0w/20 is specified could give them an out on honoring the warranty. Probably as likely to see bigfoot as this to occur, but the best advice would be to use the 0w/20, just in case.

 

[SrDriver]

I never try and outguess the engineers that have designed the engine and vehicle and too find that the dealer often offers a better price than those Iffy Lube places + they are familiar with the vehicle.

Often there could be a TSB, etc., regarding the vehicle and Iffy Lube has no way to know that.

I would use the recommended weight oil.

As another poster mentioned the Warranty is an issue too and dealer in this case would have all the service records on their computer.

I have found over the years in many cases that the OEM oil filters are a + too.

 

[pbm]

If I purchased this car it would also be red (and I might but I'm not sure what my s-i-l would think) and I would use 0w20 exclusively. I started the thread to get opinions because I'm sure that many of these cars will only see 5w20.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

Originally Posted By: sciphi
I'd use the 0w-20. It'll probably deal with any possible fuel dilution and cold-start wear better than a dino 5w-20. My brother darn near had a coronary when his 2012 MZ3 with the Skyactiv engine did its usual 2000 RPM warmup idle on the first really cold day in Buffalo. He thought something had gone seriously wrong because it was 20*F out and the stone-cold engine was idling at 2000 RPM immediately after it caught. It's normal, but a bit disconcerting.


My Focus does the same. I hate it. Gotta warm up the converter ... and perfect way to be more "green" is to idle a pig-rich cold engine at 2000RPM

 

[CATERHAM]

The ideal lube for the Skyactive engine is the Mazda High Moly 0W-20 (VI 221) which is rather unique although the Toyota OEM 0W-20 (VI 216) has similar viscosity characteristics.
That said, if you get your oil change done at a Mazda dealer there is a good chance you won't be getting the special Mazda OEM oil but some other bulk 0W-20.

Since the 0W-20 synthetic oil is so common now even Jiffy Lube is offering it and they use PP 0W-20 (VI 164) which is a much heavier oil to the Mazda OEM oil but it will satisfy Mazda warranty requirements. It's interesting to note that where I live
Jiffy lube charges $84.99 for a PP 0W-20 oil change, the dealers are actually cheaper and you can get the superior OEM oil.

 

[Spazdog]

Originally Posted By: sciphi
... My brother darn near had a coronary when his 2012 MZ3 with the Skyactiv engine did its usual 2000 RPM warmup idle on the first really cold day in Buffalo. He thought something had gone seriously wrong because it was 20*F out and the stone-cold engine was idling at 2000 RPM immediately after it caught. It's normal, but a bit disconcerting.

Off topic but just out of curiosity, how did he react with carbureted engines.

IIRC, the fast idle cam on my Oldsmobile 307 carb was set at something like 2000rpm. I don't remember the exact rpm but it was up there. It always sounded like it was roaring on cold start. It matched the book spec when checked on an inductive tach.

 

[sciphi]

Originally Posted By: Spazdog
Originally Posted By: sciphi
... My brother darn near had a coronary when his 2012 MZ3 with the Skyactiv engine did its usual 2000 RPM warmup idle on the first really cold day in Buffalo. He thought something had gone seriously wrong because it was 20*F out and the stone-cold engine was idling at 2000 RPM immediately after it caught. It's normal, but a bit disconcerting.

Off topic but just out of curiosity, how did he react with carbureted engines.

IIRC, the fast idle cam on my Oldsmobile 307 carb was set at something like 2000rpm. I don't remember the exact rpm but it was up there. It always sounded like it was roaring on cold start. It matched the book spec when checked on an inductive tach.


Neither one of us is old enough to have driven a carbureted car. All the cars we've driven/owned have been fuel injected. I'd be lost trying to troubleshoot a points-ignition/carbureted car.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
The ideal lube for the Skyactive engine is the Mazda High Moly 0W-20 (VI 221) which is rather unique although the Toyota OEM 0W-20 (VI 216) has similar viscosity characteristics.
That said, if you get your oil change done at a Mazda dealer there is a good chance you won't be getting the special Mazda OEM oil but some other bulk 0W-20.

Since the 0W-20 synthetic oil is so common now even Jiffy Lube is offering it and they use PP 0W-20 (VI 164) which is a much heavier oil to the Mazda OEM oil but it will satisfy Mazda warranty requirements. It's interesting to note that where I live
Jiffy lube charges $84.99 for a PP 0W-20 oil change, the dealers are actually cheaper and you can get the superior OEM oil.


Dealers don't make as much on an oil change on purpose - they want you to keep going to the dealer to get the oil changed, so you will see the new cars and buy one.

My parents get their oil changed at the dealer on their Escape. $25 for 6 quarts of 5w-30 MC Syn Blend and FL910S filter. About the same as what you can get from Walmart.

Also - the facilities at a dealer are paid for by car sales, warranty work and mechanical work. Quick change places only rely on oil changes to pay for everything.

 

[badtlc]

Most mazda dealer use Castrol Professional OE 0W-20 for bulk changes. It is a good oil and does 7,500 miles fairly easy.

Also, most Mazda dealers will change your oil for $10 if you bring your own oil and filter. I'd recommend that if you can't get the castrol for a reasonable price. Pennzoil Platinum 0W-20 is a great fit for this car with a relatively low NOACK%.

 

[skyactiv]

The Skyactiv engine is supposed to clatter when first starting it cold. My wife bought a new 2012 Mazda3 Skyactiv sedan with a 6 speed manual. She goes from Columbus, OH to Brooklyn, NY a few times a year and puts about 25k a year on a vehicle. I've used Kendall 0W20 in it exclusively and have a UOA posted on here of it. If it burned oil, I'd use Pennzoil. She did get better fuel economy than she's getting now it seems. She's always been an aggressive driver hence her wanting a stick. I think since she's more comfortable with the car, she's driving it faster which explains the mileage drop.

 

[Bamaro]

I'm guessing that a 0W-20 vs 5W-20 has more to do with gas mileage ratings rather than engine durability.

 

[MRC01]

Originally Posted By: Bamaro
I'm guessing that a 0W-20 vs 5W-20 has more to do with gas mileage ratings rather than engine durability.

Why? Theoretically, 5w20 and 0w20 should have the same viscosity when warm, and thus same fuel economy. The only difference will be on cold starts. And the 5w20 has a narrow vis range, which - all else equal - may be more shear stable. Of course all else is never truly equal.

Why would Mazda recommend 0w20 instead of 5w20?

 

[Garak]

Fuel economy testing involves cold starts, so a higher VI oil helps the results. Note that ILSAC rated oils do not include monogrades, not even 20w-20.