Rust locked bolt/stud. Rust disolver

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I have a couple bolts/studs that are rusted to the point that rust has locked it in the automotive part I am trying to remove. The part (LSPV load sensing proportioning valve) was covered with rust, I sprayed it with BG In-Force for a year and it is now clean from rust and the nuts came off without snapping off the bolt. But behind the nuts, the bolt or studs are still rusted to the point that the bolt/stud wont come free from the LSPV even after using a hammer on them.

I am in need of a way to get the stud out without damaging the LSPV part that the stud had locked into. I plan on replacing the studs. What can I use to dissolve the rusted studs. I could just keep doing what I have been doing with the In-Force by removing the nuts, spraying the stud and replace the nuts but would like a faster way to dissolve the rusted studs. The LSVP studs are horizontally positioned up under the Land Cruiser so a spray or jell would be easiest way to apply.
LSPV_Before.jpg
 
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PB Blaster, spray it heavily and let it soak for an hour, then spray it again and try to break it loose.
 
I assume we are talking about the two horizontal studs with bolts that are maybe 3/4" apart?

1) Why does the LSPV need to come out?

2) There is a good chance you will snap the line when you try and remove the fitting for the line.

3) If you are planning on replacing the stud, who cares if it snaps?

PB Blaster would be my starting point for everything rust related.

4) Is the stud replaceable? Or does a new one need to be welded in place?
 
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Yes, its the 2 studs with nuts.

The LSPV needs to be adjusted due to lift kit. See the marks in valve. The lift reduces pressure to the rear brakes. Adjusting it gets the brake system back to factory spec.

I can replace the studs (cheap fix) but if I brake the valve I might have a hard time replacing the valve as the brake lines are rusted too. If I have to replace the valve I may have to replace the brake lines and that will cost time, $$$ and hardship or working in the tight space.

Many have broke the valve trying to get it off the rusted studs.
 
Originally Posted By: Gabe
Is there room for an impact??


The nuts are off. Cant get to behind the valve. The stud behind the valve is flat based so there is nothing to get grab so impact wont help at this time.
 
So if the nuts come off the studs, then the valve would slide off the studs (except for the lines)?

I think an impact is better at getting off rusted things than a pipe on a socket wrench. Less chance of snapping.

Replace any broken brake line with the non steel (copper allow) brake line material.

Do you really need a lift?
 
Already have the lift.
No way to cut off the studs.

About all I can do is keep putting pen-oil on studs till enough rust has been removed so that I can pound out the studs.
 
Pb blaster and put an air hammer on the stud ends. Just enough to shake things good, don't mushroom the ends. Repeat several times every hour then soak overnight and try to remove. Heat would be best, but risk to valve is there. I'd try kroil if you have some easy to source. PB Blaster or seafoam penetrating oil are easier to source.
 
Looking at the pic again, I'd back the nuts off till flush with the end of the stud then take a decent piece of steel and hold it wit vice grips and hit the steel plate with an air hammer. If you use the round taper bit, welding a nut to the plate will keep the air hammer from slipping.
 
"CRC Freeze Off" spray enough on it will contract a part because of the cold then wrench off. Or use a CO2 Fire Extinguisher. Had a rear disc brake Toyota Rav with pads held in by pins. Rusted in by 5 years of New York winters. Tried PB Blaster soak for 24 hours no luck. Sprayed CRC Freeze off and got the pins out. Cost about $7.00 a can.

"CRC Freeze-Off Super Penetrant loosens rusted and corroded nuts, bolts, couplings, fittings, hinges, locks & frozen components. Freeze-Off is a unique formula that immediately drops the temperature of the area in direct contact with the spray. The freezing effect cracks rusted surfaces, allowing Freeze-Off to reach deeper & work more effectively than other penetrants. Lubricating film prevents corrosion and displaces water. This is a low VOC formula."
 
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that casting looks thick enough to keep heat away from what is inside the casting. torch heat on the nuts should stay in the nuts. talk to a really good welder. ill bet he can do it.
 
So you've got the nuts off but need to remove the proportioning valve?

Drill the studs out.

I also don't understand your comment, "No way to cut off the studs.". Why not? Looks like ample room to get an angle grinder or Sawzall in there.
 
Originally Posted By: mase
"Kano kroil works the best"


+1

It isn't even in the same league with PB or any of the others.
I am inclined to agree. It's hard to be sure without an objective test but we keep the Kroil for the hard stuff and it pays off.
 
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