Permatex Right Stuff

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Quote:
Assemble parts within 5 minutes while The Right Stuff
Grey is still wet. Secure or tighten to recommended
torque specs.


I was reading the technical data sheet and that above quote made me stop and think: If I was to use that on a transmission pan, I'd have to be moving pretty fast and not make any mistakes if I was to get that applied to a large pan and get it installed before the 5 minutes is up. I don't know how fast the stuff comes out of the can, but I'm thinking I'd need 3 minutes at least just to get it applied to the pan - that leaves me 2 minutes to get the pan in position and the bolts started.
shocked2.gif
 
Very good stuff, seals like cement. Good luck getting the part off next time. It does not set up THAT quickly but gives a better seal if you do hurry up with it and install it wet. Used it on valve covers or parts I could not easily get a gasket for and it sealed well but like I said it can be a challenge to remove next time.
 
Originally Posted By: 71Chevyguy
Very good stuff, seals like cement. Good luck getting the part off next time. It does not set up THAT quickly but gives a better seal if you do hurry up with it and install it wet. Used it on valve covers or parts I could not easily get a gasket for and it sealed well but like I said it can be a challenge to remove next time.


Are you saying I have a little more time than 5 minutes? That would be cool if I did.
 
Originally Posted By: robshelton
What's wrong with using a pan gasket? Avoid the cork ones if you can - they split easily.


I'm going to try a gasket first, but Plan B is to use a gasket making compound if Plan A doesn't stop the leak.
 
Sounds like anaerobic sealer. I've heard 15 min dry time but of course chemistries change. Would be great in a shop. Exercise extreme care not to let little dried "worms" loose inside the transmission, ie don't over-goop it.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Sounds like anaerobic sealer. I've heard 15 min dry time but of course chemistries change. Would be great in a shop. Exercise extreme care not to let little dried "worms" loose inside the transmission, ie don't over-goop it.

With Anaerobic sealer you have all day to assemble it, it only dries in the absence of air. They are used on machined surfaces only as they have limited gap filling abilities.

Personally if i were to use an RTV on a tranny pan it would be one of the Grey product from Honda, Ford or Subaru (its all very similar, made by 3 bond).
Honda Bond HT is OEM for pans and has decent working times.
 
Honda makes a special one for oil pans which has a slower drying time, about 15min work time as I recall.

Good stuff.

Smoky
 
If I'm reading this right, the challenge is that the pan needs to be torqued properly in place in time of cure, right? The bond needs to be adequately torqued otherwise it will be more compressed in some spots than others?
 
71Chevyguy:

1. How fast does that stuff set up?
2. What kind of working time do you have?
3. How fast does it come out of the nozzle?
4. What size hole do you cut in the nozzle?
5. What size bead would you apply for a transmission pan?
 
Sorry for taking long to respond. Kinda hard to keep up with each post sometimes. I would say you have more like 15 minutes to work with it. I usually hurried up as much as i could but I know it had to be 15 minutes at times. It does a [censored] good job sealing things. Not sure I have used it on a tranny since most have dedicated pan gaskets but I have used it on old gaskets that I did not have a replacement for and it did well. As far as how much? I would not go overboard, maybe a thin line of it along the mating surface. I have used it to hold gaskets on a tranny pan and it held well. Basically you don't want it going in the pan if you use too much. As long as you have a consistant bead it should seal. my best guess would be 1/8" maybe a bit bigger. When it dries it almost feels like packing peanuts that have holes in them. Kinda rubbery but still soft. I believe it is soft enough that it would still compress even if it was fully set. In the end it is more like contact cement once it is torqued down. I would say the best bet is to make sure the mating surfaces are clean. I usually clean them with lacquer thinner if permissible. Not sure how well it would work on a greasy surface. Might be a bit of a challenge on the tranny side of it. As far as how quickly it comes out, go easy on it because if you push hard it will shoot out pretty good. As long as you are gentle with it you should not have a hard time controlling it. I have used it for many patchup jobs successfully and i did use it for it's intended purpose with great success in a car that had so much blowby that it blew out the gaskets but this stuff sealed it and kept it sealed. Expensive but good stuff. Hope this helps
 
I use it occasionally, but it is extremely expensive here. Last time I checked it was $23 for the regular size.

If you have time to let it cure, use Permatex Ultra Black or Ultra Grey. They cost much less, you have more time to work and they seal just as well.

For customers I normally only use Right Stuff for differential oil changes. I give them the option of leaving their pickup, we do the oil change at 7 pm with Ultra Black, and they pick it up at 10 am, or for $8 extra we do it right away and use Right Stuff.
 
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