PCV valve?

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Anyone change out their pcv and see any benefits? I know most likely mine is fine but figured id change it out anyways since it hasnt been done. Im at 100k miles on the corolla. Just wanted to know if anyone has seen any differences/experience with the pcv.
 
Apparently they can either be the cause of sludge in an engine, or make no difference.

I never noticed a single difference when changing one. All passed the shake/rattle test, at replacement, though. I don't plan on replacing them in the future unless it is gummed up.
 
My old F-150 was getting a lot of condensation in the oil in the winter, even though the trips were extremely long. The PCV passed the usual tests, but upon replacement (very cheap), the problem disappeared right away.
 
A clogged PCV valve will likely contribute to build up of carbon deposits and varnishing...it's a $5 part at your dealer, will take 10 minutes to replace (cleaning a clogged valve will temporarily help, but a few thousand miles later it'll show oil dripping out the hole, indicating a malfunction)....

...check the pcv hose to see that it's still soft at each end...it's a $15 part...

pcvb.jpg
 
Changed mine in the 07 Caravan at 97k along with the plugs and wires. Really reduced spark knock for some reason. The old plugs and wires looked good, so, I think the PCV valve is what made the difference.
 
I put an aftermarket Napa PCV valve on the Camry and for a long time after that I thought my engine had picked up a tick. Replaced the replacement with a dealer PCV valve and it was nice and quiet again. The Napa PCV valve was rattling like a wood pecker on a tin can!
 
for import types of automobile: I always use/insist in using factory OE PCV valves.

Aftermarket ones quality and performance are all over the place.

Q.
 
I replaced on my '05 corolla at 70k'ish miles at the advice of BITOG members here (they even walked me thru how to do it) and I didn't notice any difference, however, it is piece of mind knowing that it won't harm my engine any was well worth it.
 
One of the perks of owning a car since new, is knowing all its little quirks and behavior.
Since my Mazda does not exhibit any unusual symptoms, does not burn any oil, looks clean as a whistle through the oil filler neck and there is no condensation in the oil I am not going to bother with PCV change, even though the car has over 100k miles on it.
Also, the PCV is not in an easily accessible spot, so why mess with things when everything works as it should?
 
Replacing the PCV valve is a must because if you don't, your car might act like it has a vacuum leak. I remember when my dad's 1997 Lexus ES300 wouldn't idle correctly, I replaced the PCV valve, and it instantly cured the problem. I also had that happen with a 1995 Honda Accord.
 
Replacing the PCV valve on our '84 Caravan was a night-and-day difference in idle quality. The old one still rattled, as if it worked freely, but something obviously must have been wrong with it.
 
I replaced one for a friend a few days back. Took me all of about 90 seconds. Gotta love Saturns.
 
Originally Posted By: MinamiKotaro
Replacing the PCV valve on our '84 Caravan was a night-and-day difference in idle quality. The old one still rattled, as if it worked freely, but something obviously must have been wrong with it.

That is because the metal spring inside gets metal fatigue.

That is why I always recommend new ones based on time and mileage.
 
Originally Posted By: artificialist
Originally Posted By: MinamiKotaro
Replacing the PCV valve on our '84 Caravan was a night-and-day difference in idle quality. The old one still rattled, as if it worked freely, but something obviously must have been wrong with it.

That is because the metal spring inside gets metal fatigue.

That is why I always recommend new ones based on time and mileage.


Yep. Learned that in auto school. Just because it rattles, does not mean its good.
 
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