As was said above, you need to verify oil pressure. I actually was in an old Astro van with a 4.3 engine when the oil pressure gauge quit working. (or so we thought because it still seemed to run ok) Well it indeed did not have any oil pressure but managed to run quite a while without pressure before the death rattle started making it obvious there was a big problem.
Project Fix the Rod Knock, can we do it? Lets talk
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Originally Posted By: itguy08
Originally Posted By: Rickey
"That would be my first step - make sure oil pressure is up to snuff and if it is address the knocking noise. No oil pressure will definitely cause knocking and will trash the engine."
A bad rod bearing can cause low oil pressure.
it's somewhat of a "chicken and egg" thing.
True but looking at his video he's not getting any pressure (or not enough to make the sensor move) so I'd think you would at least get 1-5 PSI even with bum bearings.
The sensor indicates at least one bar, so that is probably about 6 or so PSI.. something happened at about 4:19 in my video where it came back. I have been reading the responses about how one thing could cause another. Good candidate for stalling when fully warmed at lights??..
Also, how much rod knocking can it take????????
Need to see what I can do where, when and with who, how.
Originally Posted By: Rickey
"That would be my first step - make sure oil pressure is up to snuff and if it is address the knocking noise. No oil pressure will definitely cause knocking and will trash the engine."
A bad rod bearing can cause low oil pressure.
it's somewhat of a "chicken and egg" thing.
True but looking at his video he's not getting any pressure (or not enough to make the sensor move) so I'd think you would at least get 1-5 PSI even with bum bearings.
The sensor indicates at least one bar, so that is probably about 6 or so PSI.. something happened at about 4:19 in my video where it came back. I have been reading the responses about how one thing could cause another. Good candidate for stalling when fully warmed at lights??..
Also, how much rod knocking can it take????????
Need to see what I can do where, when and with who, how.
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Originally Posted By: Fleetmon
On 350's, if run low on oil and they spin a cam bearing, you lose top end oil pressure and oil pressure flow for the sender (and fuel pump signal), correct? Is this 4.3 designed the same way?
A 4.3 is a "3/4 350."
It seems I need to take of this oil pan, OR find someone to change the sender, since I cant get down under that distributor...
Sounds like it can be saved....................
IF I don't keep running it....................
I feel this way.
On 350's, if run low on oil and they spin a cam bearing, you lose top end oil pressure and oil pressure flow for the sender (and fuel pump signal), correct? Is this 4.3 designed the same way?
A 4.3 is a "3/4 350."
It seems I need to take of this oil pan, OR find someone to change the sender, since I cant get down under that distributor...
Sounds like it can be saved....................
IF I don't keep running it....................
I feel this way.
Quote:
Well it indeed did not have any oil pressure but managed to run quite a while without pressure before the death rattle started making it obvious there was a big problem.
Fixed with oil pump if that happens, no?
It really, really seems like my engine is save-able.
Well it indeed did not have any oil pressure but managed to run quite a while without pressure before the death rattle started making it obvious there was a big problem.
Fixed with oil pump if that happens, no?
It really, really seems like my engine is save-able.
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Quote:
Well it indeed did not have any oil pressure but managed to run quite a while without pressure before the death rattle started making it obvious there was a big problem.
Fixed with oil pump if that happens, no?
It really, really seems like my engine is save-able.
If you can verify oil pressure then its decision time. If there isn't any oil pressure then you are going to have to drop the pan to get to the pump and when you are there, you can look at the rod bearings and see if they will live longer or if the engine needs a total rebuild.
Quote:
Well it indeed did not have any oil pressure but managed to run quite a while without pressure before the death rattle started making it obvious there was a big problem.
Fixed with oil pump if that happens, no?
It really, really seems like my engine is save-able.
If you can verify oil pressure then its decision time. If there isn't any oil pressure then you are going to have to drop the pan to get to the pump and when you are there, you can look at the rod bearings and see if they will live longer or if the engine needs a total rebuild.
i finally got to listen to your video....i'm not convinced it is a rod knock
Originally Posted By: Fleetmon
i finally got to listen to your video....i'm not convinced it is a rod knock
I have some type of suspicion that it is not as well!!
I have been using the alternate vehicle (the F-150, been pulling double and triple duty) but as to the S10... You are right, there are things that do NOT add up. I also declined to let the mechanic o the "$800 rip-off bearings job."
As to the NEXT thing that I should do.. Should I get the sensor under the distributor changed, the oil sender, to see what we see, and what tale it tells?
By the way, I am in Norristown.
i finally got to listen to your video....i'm not convinced it is a rod knock
I have some type of suspicion that it is not as well!!
As to the NEXT thing that I should do.. Should I get the sensor under the distributor changed, the oil sender, to see what we see, and what tale it tells?
By the way, I am in Norristown.
MMO has performed a few miracles stopping nasty engine noises for me over the years. While its unlikely to fix yours, at $5 (Walmart) why not..
Not reading this whole thread, but just pull the pan and roll new bearings into it. Cost is a set of rod & main bearings, and an oil pan gasket. Use loctite on the rod & main bolts and torque them correctly. Sounds like this is an older budget engine, so guess what - if the bearings in it are shot, a new set of standard bearings are going to be a LOT better. Wouldn't waste the time or money doing anything more unless this was going to be a full rebuild.
That engine needs a full tear down and inspection. Its been run with 0 oil pressure for far too long.
By throwing a set of rod bearings at it you are wasting your $ IMO.
You'll never be able to clean all the metal out, and will just ruin your new set of bearings (if the crank is even still serviceable).
That definitely sounds like spun bearing...
What does the oil look like?? Drain it in a bucket and look for metal shavings.
By throwing a set of rod bearings at it you are wasting your $ IMO.
You'll never be able to clean all the metal out, and will just ruin your new set of bearings (if the crank is even still serviceable).
That definitely sounds like spun bearing...
What does the oil look like?? Drain it in a bucket and look for metal shavings.
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Originally Posted By: mattd
That engine needs a full tear down and inspection. Its been run with 0 oil pressure for far too long.
By throwing a set of rod bearings at it you are wasting your $ IMO.
You'll never be able to clean all the metal out, and will just ruin your new set of bearings.
That definitely sounds like spun bearing...
What does the oil look like?? Drain it in a bucket and look for metal shavings.
Believe it or not, I did change the oil today. Put in a quart of the old, 2 quarts 20W-50, and some Lucas. No metal shavings.
I am actively seeking someone that can help me do these things. It sounds like checking the rods, doing the bearings.. I believe there to be SOME oil pressure,... so the engine is basically running off of what was in the cylinder walls? Maybe that is why it is stalling more?
I let it cool down a long time today, I started her up to drive it back/forth about 30 seconds, sounds like it was building compression.
Something about "rod bearing" don't add up, other things do...
I wish I could find someone to try these "on the cheap" fixes. I believe they will do the job, and yes I will clean out the filter frequently. It sounds and runs far too well to be scrapped.
I have also stopped starting it up, today was its last day of running/moving.. I took the videos you see, and I have the spare engine in the back.
That engine needs a full tear down and inspection. Its been run with 0 oil pressure for far too long.
By throwing a set of rod bearings at it you are wasting your $ IMO.
You'll never be able to clean all the metal out, and will just ruin your new set of bearings.
That definitely sounds like spun bearing...
What does the oil look like?? Drain it in a bucket and look for metal shavings.
Believe it or not, I did change the oil today. Put in a quart of the old, 2 quarts 20W-50, and some Lucas. No metal shavings.
I am actively seeking someone that can help me do these things. It sounds like checking the rods, doing the bearings.. I believe there to be SOME oil pressure,... so the engine is basically running off of what was in the cylinder walls? Maybe that is why it is stalling more?
I let it cool down a long time today, I started her up to drive it back/forth about 30 seconds, sounds like it was building compression.
Something about "rod bearing" don't add up, other things do...
I wish I could find someone to try these "on the cheap" fixes. I believe they will do the job, and yes I will clean out the filter frequently. It sounds and runs far too well to be scrapped.
I have also stopped starting it up, today was its last day of running/moving.. I took the videos you see, and I have the spare engine in the back.
Originally Posted By: Fleetmon
i finally got to listen to your video....i'm not convinced it is a rod knock
I am suspicious too. it sounds identical to a cracked flex plate (auto trans) that happened on an old grand prix I had years back. Made the exact same noise, same harmony too. But first, quit fooling around and get an actual oil pressure guage temp installed where the pressure switch goes to verify oil pressure. after you VERIFY pressure, shut off engine and crawl under, remove the flex-plate cover, and start inspecting. Let us know what you find.
i finally got to listen to your video....i'm not convinced it is a rod knock
I am suspicious too. it sounds identical to a cracked flex plate (auto trans) that happened on an old grand prix I had years back. Made the exact same noise, same harmony too. But first, quit fooling around and get an actual oil pressure guage temp installed where the pressure switch goes to verify oil pressure. after you VERIFY pressure, shut off engine and crawl under, remove the flex-plate cover, and start inspecting. Let us know what you find.
Originally Posted By: mattd
If it is stalling more, its very possible it could be from the increased friction on the bottom end moving parts due to the lack of oil pressure. There is no cheap, easy fix for something like this
I feel I did the right thing by not running it more. I suspect one may be related to the other.
I like the bearings idea.
Oh, and I also see a "Z" VIN engine. Can I change that over to fit in a W? Just curious.
It also runs fine before it starts "Stalling more".. If there is in fact no pressure due to a bearing, then I think I am doing the right thing by not starting/running until I get that remedied.
And how can there be NO oil pressure with real thick oil and a lot of it? I believe I have SOME PSi. You saw that sender flicker, right??..
If it is stalling more, its very possible it could be from the increased friction on the bottom end moving parts due to the lack of oil pressure. There is no cheap, easy fix for something like this
I feel I did the right thing by not running it more. I suspect one may be related to the other.
I like the bearings idea.
Oh, and I also see a "Z" VIN engine. Can I change that over to fit in a W? Just curious.
It also runs fine before it starts "Stalling more".. If there is in fact no pressure due to a bearing, then I think I am doing the right thing by not starting/running until I get that remedied.
And how can there be NO oil pressure with real thick oil and a lot of it? I believe I have SOME PSi. You saw that sender flicker, right??..
c'mon dude....put a manual gauge in it and verify oil pressure....or at the least, pull a valve cover and see if you have oil flow. The knocking noise is too irregular IMO to be a rod......verify you have pressure and start looking for whats loose/rubbing/coming undone/whatever.
I think you may find a flex plate problem or something related as mentioned here. I'd give you a hand if I could but I have fields to cut every weekend and have a real job that fills in the rest of my time.
I think you may find a flex plate problem or something related as mentioned here. I'd give you a hand if I could but I have fields to cut every weekend and have a real job that fills in the rest of my time.
Originally Posted By: Fleetmon
c'mon dude....put a manual gauge in it and verify oil pressure....or at the least, pull a valve cover and see if you have oil flow. The knocking noise is too irregular IMO to be a rod......verify you have pressure and start looking for whats loose/rubbing/coming undone/whatever.
I think you may find a flex plate problem or something related as mentioned here. I'd give you a hand if I could but I have fields to cut every weekend and have a real job that fills in the rest of my time.
Awesome sauce.
By the way, I am sort of mechanically somewhat stupid over here. I have laid on the top of the engine at night with a lantern and seen the oil sender, but cannot get to it.
Is there anyone in the PA area that I can maybe go see.. West Norriton? Eagleville? Maybe a BITOGer?? That can help me do that, what Fleetmon said.. ? I am sick of being shafted by Brandon and Alton, what all with forgetting to install dipsticks and [censored].
c'mon dude....put a manual gauge in it and verify oil pressure....or at the least, pull a valve cover and see if you have oil flow. The knocking noise is too irregular IMO to be a rod......verify you have pressure and start looking for whats loose/rubbing/coming undone/whatever.
I think you may find a flex plate problem or something related as mentioned here. I'd give you a hand if I could but I have fields to cut every weekend and have a real job that fills in the rest of my time.
Awesome sauce.
By the way, I am sort of mechanically somewhat stupid over here. I have laid on the top of the engine at night with a lantern and seen the oil sender, but cannot get to it.
Is there anyone in the PA area that I can maybe go see.. West Norriton? Eagleville? Maybe a BITOGer?? That can help me do that, what Fleetmon said.. ? I am sick of being shafted by Brandon and Alton, what all with forgetting to install dipsticks and [censored].
I know on small block chevys there is a port right above the oil filter that can be used for an oil pressure sending unit. I do not know if the 4.3 has this or not but it would be worth looking to see and then buy the cheapest oil pressure gauge you can find and hook it up. Bottom line is you need to either find a way to hook up a real gauge or change the current sending unit.
Try you tube for videos on changing the sending unit in an S10. There is most likely something on there that can help show you how to do it or at least show what is involved in the job.
Try you tube for videos on changing the sending unit in an S10. There is most likely something on there that can help show you how to do it or at least show what is involved in the job.
Originally Posted By: morepwr
I know on small block chevys there is a port right above the oil filter that can be used for an oil pressure sending unit. I do not know if the 4.3 has this or not but it would be worth looking to see and then buy the cheapest oil pressure gauge you can find and hook it up. Bottom line is you need to either find a way to hook up a real gauge or change the current sending unit.
Try you tube for videos on changing the sending unit in an S10. There is most likely something on there that can help show you how to do it or at least show what is involved in the job.
I have a remote oil filter.
I am encouraged that it is cracked flex plate. Where, exactly, is a flex plate? This engine WAS dumped on a pallet, with parts on the back needing replaced...
I will do as you all have said, even if I need to take it to someone, to change the sending unit for what I have.
I am doing my darndest to stop driving it, whatever it is is worsening, so, why do it in.. I am staying off it as much as I can.
I know on small block chevys there is a port right above the oil filter that can be used for an oil pressure sending unit. I do not know if the 4.3 has this or not but it would be worth looking to see and then buy the cheapest oil pressure gauge you can find and hook it up. Bottom line is you need to either find a way to hook up a real gauge or change the current sending unit.
Try you tube for videos on changing the sending unit in an S10. There is most likely something on there that can help show you how to do it or at least show what is involved in the job.
I have a remote oil filter.
I am encouraged that it is cracked flex plate. Where, exactly, is a flex plate? This engine WAS dumped on a pallet, with parts on the back needing replaced...
I will do as you all have said, even if I need to take it to someone, to change the sending unit for what I have.
I am doing my darndest to stop driving it, whatever it is is worsening, so, why do it in.. I am staying off it as much as I can.
IIRC, to change the Oil Sender switch, I must lay on top of the engine, and I can probably get to it with the distributor removed, as in the above video.
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