A/C system help

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The A/C on the GP was not blowing as cold as it should have and it has started warming up here in SoCal (high of 100F today), so I decided to recharge the system last night. I picked up a can of EZ Chill R-134a from WalMart. Following the instructions, I ran the A/C on high for a few minutes, attached the included hose to the low side port, and checked the pressure, which was at 25 psi or maybe a bit lower, which was well below the 40-50 psi range the ambient temp chart said it should be for a full charge. So I charged the system. After following the turn, shake, stop, and check pressure procedure on the can for a few minutes I stopped and hopped in the car to see what effect it had. To my dismay it had none! The A/C compressor clutch then started acting up and would disengage, engage for a second, and then disengage again. I took the car for a drive at that point and after a few minutes and about a mile of city street driving the clutch engaged full time and the system started blowing colder air than it has in the short time I have owned it (less than four months). I took it for a short trip on the freeway and back home. I checked the pressure on the system after getting home and it was about 40 psi so I decided to use of the rest of the 18 oz can (it was nearly empty). At that point the pressure gauge read about 45 psi. The clutch went back to its cycle of disengaging for 10-15 seconds and reengaging for a second or two before cutting out again. It wasn't cutting out because the A/C temp or car interior temps were fine because the air coming out of the vents was warm, the system was set to 60F, and the temp in the car was probably 75F+. I tried the test drive again to see if that would help and no such luck. I let the car sit overnight and tried it again a few minutes ago and it is doing the same thing: compressor engages for a second, disengaged for 10-15 seconds, engages for a second, etc. It is also causing the engine speed to fluctuate, bumping up 200-300 RPM when the clutch engages and down again when it disengages. The drop in RPM can be felt when driving.

Do I need to take it in to have a mechanic look at it or is there some troubleshooting I can try at home?

Edit: One more thing to add. When the clutch is engaged, the pressure gauge reads 45 psi (low end of the fully charged range due to higher ambient temps this morning), when it disengages the pressure jumps a bit and then rises slowly to 65-70 psi, then the clutch engages and the pressure drops again. It repeatedly runs through that cycle with the clutch not being engaged for more than a second or two.
 
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I think the next step would be to check the relay. Try swapping it with another (horn?) and seeing if it acts any better.
 
Judging by description, you have overcharged your system.

To make matters worse: isn't those EZchill recharge comes with some form of leak sealer?

I'd bring it to a shop and have them service it if I were you (before it becomes worse).

Q.
 
Those low side guages don't mean a thing at this time! They are basically a gimmick . To properly charge your AC system I need a high pressure reading. that's why they are called AC gauges and not AC guage . As a proper set of gauges has a high and a low sidegauge
 
Originally Posted By: Quest
Judging by description, you have overcharged your system.

To make matters worse: isn't those EZchill recharge comes with some form of leak sealer?

I'd bring it to a shop and have them service it if I were you (before it becomes worse).

Q.
good catch with the sealer. No Shop will work on it now. The sealer costs us $1000 when it plugs up the valves in our charging station
 
Could be under or over charged, can't know for sure without proper gauges and a vent temp thermometer. I think Autozone and such may loan out A/C tools.

If overcharged you can bleed off some refrigerant at the low pressure schrader valve, if over, more refrigerant can be added (straight 134a only, no sealer or other goop).
 
personally, I would only use pure, unadulterated R-134a refrigerant when recharging/diagnosing A/C issues, and would absolutely stay away from using any form of sealer, period.

having dye in the system is ok (for diagnostic purposes).

Q.
 
Congrats, to save a few bucks, you used wal Matt garbage products and got air, moisture, and unnecessary chemicals in your system. Yuck.

Do the job right (nobody will necessarily touch your car now), find the leak, fix it, pressure test with Nitrogen and a trace of refrigerant, vAcuum it to 500 micron or less, then fill.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Congrats, to save a few bucks, you used wal Matt garbage products and got air, moisture, and unnecessary chemicals in your system. Yuck.

Do the job right (nobody will necessarily touch your car now), find the leak, fix it, pressure test with Nitrogen and a trace of refrigerant, vAcuum it to 500 micron or less, then fill.

Well, thanks for making me feel like and idiot. I hadn't read or heard any warnings against using such products, so I assumed they were safe. But you know what they say about when you assume...

It seems that I have more money than time, mechanical abilities, proper tools, or sense, so I will stick with oil and wiper blade changes and leave the rest to the pros.
 
Those self recharge kits are junk. You cannot properly see whats doing on in an A/C system by viewing the low side pressure only. You need to bring it to a shop that has a full set of gauges and a evac/recharge machine.
 
Originally Posted By: NMBurb02
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Congrats, to save a few bucks, you used wal Matt garbage products and got air, moisture, and unnecessary chemicals in your system. Yuck.

Do the job right (nobody will necessarily touch your car now), find the leak, fix it, pressure test with Nitrogen and a trace of refrigerant, vAcuum it to 500 micron or less, then fill.

Well, thanks for making me feel like and idiot. I hadn't read or heard any warnings against using such products, so I assumed they were safe. But you know what they say about when you assume...

It seems that I have more money than time, mechanical abilities, proper tools, or sense, so I will stick with oil and wiper blade changes and leave the rest to the pros.


Sorry, I know when I was considering some sealant that supposedly was great and was more of a preventative thing and was being advertised in a trade journal as the greatest thing, a few cursory searches gave me all the insight that I needed for avoiding it.

I know when I bought my gauges and watched videos online, they made a big deal of purging the air out of the lines before filling the system. The kits never imply such a thing... So you have air and no high side reading.

Sorry, dont mean to make you feel like an idiot, but I do hope that given the wealth of forum, youtube and website knowledge that is out there, you do a bit more rigorous reading on what to or not to do, because these things unfortunately can get very expensive and do unforseen damage very easily to automotive systems (AC isnt the only one, but it is a great example of something that can get ruined and $$$$$$ really quick).

I wish you all the best on getting this figured out. Others have indicated that you may be overcharged... Ive come to learn that the pressure charts, and the ratios that are recommended for high and low side pressures, seem to never be readily achievable... Weight really is the best way...
 
Hopefully, the can of 134a you bought contained NO sealer. If it did, you just really complicated your problems.

It would have been far better to do some research FIRST, here or elsewhere, before acting.

The 'gauge' on the can is not a reliable way to do this.

Note to you & others: Some systems no longer have a high-pressure port. Mine doesn't. Only low-pressure.

Don't ever use a 'sealer-in-a-can-of-134a'. Ever. Only 100% pure 134a. Read the can carefully.
 
why didn't you try to reduce the pressure? given that it was ok before your second attempt to add more? as far as legality or illegality of how to "reduce the pressure", nobody has to know how you could have done that.
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
why didn't you try to reduce the pressure? given that it was ok before your second attempt to add more? as far as legality or illegality of how to "reduce the pressure", nobody has to know how you could have done that.

I didn't want to play with R-134a and possibly injure myself or damage anything. I had read about releasing pressure from the low side fitting but dicided not to risk it.

Also, I wasn't sure if it was a high pressure issue or if I had screwed something else up.
 
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AZ appears to have a set of gauges for about $50, anyone know if they would be accurate/a good investment? Harbor freight has a set for about the same as well.

This, combined with a rented vacuum pump and a can of 100% r134a and you could do a legit home service.
 
Originally Posted By: sleddriver
Note to you & others: Some systems no longer have a high-pressure port. Mine doesn't. Only low-pressure.


Thanks for the heads up! Never heard this one before.

One other thing I find is the r134a that has no additives usually cost less too. I hate it when they add on oil of unknown PAG viscosity as well.
 
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