What would the difference be between Ceratec and Motor Protect? Hopefully I won't be 'red flagged' for asking....
Liqui Moly Ceratec
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MotorProtect
Fully synthetic engine-oil additive. Significantly reduces wear. High-pressure anti-wear additive forms a very thin layer on friction pairs inside the engine. The layer has ductile and lubricating properties and is effective for at least 50,000 km. The advantages are as follows: ˜ Significant reduction in wear ˜ Longer service life for the engine˜ Reduced fuel consumption and pollutant emissions due to the energy conserving effect ˜ Optimum engine performance and quieter running.
Cera Tec
CERA TEC is a high-tech ceramic wear protection product for all motor oils. CERA TEC reduces friction and wear due to ceramic compounds that withstand extremely high chemical and thermal loads. Prevents direct metal-to-metal contact, thus increasing the engine service life. The low-friction effect reduces fuel consumption in gasoline and diesel engines. Sufficient for 5 liters of motor oil.
Fully synthetic engine-oil additive. Significantly reduces wear. High-pressure anti-wear additive forms a very thin layer on friction pairs inside the engine. The layer has ductile and lubricating properties and is effective for at least 50,000 km. The advantages are as follows: ˜ Significant reduction in wear ˜ Longer service life for the engine˜ Reduced fuel consumption and pollutant emissions due to the energy conserving effect ˜ Optimum engine performance and quieter running.
Cera Tec
CERA TEC is a high-tech ceramic wear protection product for all motor oils. CERA TEC reduces friction and wear due to ceramic compounds that withstand extremely high chemical and thermal loads. Prevents direct metal-to-metal contact, thus increasing the engine service life. The low-friction effect reduces fuel consumption in gasoline and diesel engines. Sufficient for 5 liters of motor oil.
So the Ceratec has lubricating ceramics, ok. The MotorProtect has 'ductile' and 'lubricating' properties. Wonder what 'ductile' properties are? I'm assuming that the Motorprotect has Moly as it's main ingredients and possible some ceramics as well. I can't find much that explains the ingredients of MotorProtect from the LM website...
Originally Posted By: dino33
So the Ceratec has lubricating ceramics, ok. The MotorProtect has 'ductile' and 'lubricating' properties. Wonder what 'ductile' properties are? I'm assuming that the Motorprotect has Moly as it's main ingredients and possible some ceramics as well. I can't find much that explains the ingredients of MotorProtect from the LM website...
You're right, LM don't say what is in some of their products, but as far as I am aware, Ceretec has Moly, Boron and Ceramic particles in suspension, plus a dash of a few other chemicals. Motor Protect is more of a mystery, but the locals say it is Bio Moly!
Ceretec is popular with VW TDI owners in Germany who don't want to use an HDEO or higher Zinc content oil. Anyone got before and after UOA results, rather than the normal "It sounds good in my engine" accounts.
So the Ceratec has lubricating ceramics, ok. The MotorProtect has 'ductile' and 'lubricating' properties. Wonder what 'ductile' properties are? I'm assuming that the Motorprotect has Moly as it's main ingredients and possible some ceramics as well. I can't find much that explains the ingredients of MotorProtect from the LM website...
You're right, LM don't say what is in some of their products, but as far as I am aware, Ceretec has Moly, Boron and Ceramic particles in suspension, plus a dash of a few other chemicals. Motor Protect is more of a mystery, but the locals say it is Bio Moly!
Ceretec is popular with VW TDI owners in Germany who don't want to use an HDEO or higher Zinc content oil. Anyone got before and after UOA results, rather than the normal "It sounds good in my engine" accounts.
He was on the ZF forum looking for volunteers to test it, as he is trying other types of oil. You can't change two things at once and to make sense in basic statistical terms it takes three OCI's with an engine you already have UOA data for to see if it has an effect. Might take a look on the VW TDI forum later to see if I can find their data.
It's difficult to find a test vehicle, because it needs to have enough miles to have fully run in (At least 50K), but not be suffering from a terminal decline issue. It also has to have the same type of useage and drivers each year, or you can get a big difference. It also helps if the user does nice long 10K plus OCI's, otherwise the UOA numbers are too small.
Some of the UOA results did show an increase in insolubles, but I think that is from the Ceramic particles suspension. They are supposed to be too small for the filter to catch, but just to confuse things some types of Moly cause similar figures.
It's difficult to find a test vehicle, because it needs to have enough miles to have fully run in (At least 50K), but not be suffering from a terminal decline issue. It also has to have the same type of useage and drivers each year, or you can get a big difference. It also helps if the user does nice long 10K plus OCI's, otherwise the UOA numbers are too small.
Some of the UOA results did show an increase in insolubles, but I think that is from the Ceramic particles suspension. They are supposed to be too small for the filter to catch, but just to confuse things some types of Moly cause similar figures.
Originally Posted By: Bodensee
You can't change two things at once and to make sense in basic statistical terms it takes three OCI's with an engine you already have UOA data for to see if it has an effect.
Bollocks.
The foundation of statistical process control is in the implementation of full- or fractional-factorial DoE. One factor at a time went out with 7th grade science class.
You can't change two things at once and to make sense in basic statistical terms it takes three OCI's with an engine you already have UOA data for to see if it has an effect.
Bollocks.
The foundation of statistical process control is in the implementation of full- or fractional-factorial DoE. One factor at a time went out with 7th grade science class.
OK so if you change both the oil and an additive and the results change, how are you going to know which one was responsible for the change?? Engines are all different and in different condition, used in a different way, so you can't use data from other tests, not that there is much available for the new generation of oils anyway. The producers don't publish it.
I've seen data showing Fe reduction after using Ceretec, BUT it was associated with a cheap oil and short OCI, so not useful. There is one UOA on this site that is interesting because it was a good oil, BUT if you don't switch back to an OCI without the additive it proves nothing because it might be caused by another factor.
I've seen data showing Fe reduction after using Ceretec, BUT it was associated with a cheap oil and short OCI, so not useful. There is one UOA on this site that is interesting because it was a good oil, BUT if you don't switch back to an OCI without the additive it proves nothing because it might be caused by another factor.
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One small point about using UOA results to see if an additive or new oil reduces engine wear, is that when you think you have got a good result, it requires a full particle count UOA to get some idea if the apparent improvement translates into real engine wear. For example if a new oil produced lower Fe figures and the particle count showed the medium and large particle count was constant and the reduction was in all small particles, then it does not translate into a real world wear reduction.
If you read a few of the blogs from the German oil gurus, they are much keener on bypass filtration and engine pre heaters than concerns over which oil they use. I'm going to try a pre heater next winter, but a bypass filter system is expensive and would not fit in my old diesel Merc van too easily.
If you read a few of the blogs from the German oil gurus, they are much keener on bypass filtration and engine pre heaters than concerns over which oil they use. I'm going to try a pre heater next winter, but a bypass filter system is expensive and would not fit in my old diesel Merc van too easily.
Originally Posted By: Bodensee
OK so if you change both the oil and an additive and the results change, how are you going to know which one was responsible for the change??
I never said it would be done only once - you did. Factorial DoE relies on multiple runs with multiple variables and you let crossed analysis of variance help you pick out the diamonds from the coal.
A bit more reading for you to do about factorial design of experiment.
Once good result from one additive in one engine for one oil change is statistical noise. If you want to run it because you think it's sehr gut or the chappies on the bus describe it as ausgezeichnet then go right ahead. Because both of those are about as good as a single UOA from one engine - which you seem to be putting quite a lot of faith in to determine if an additive works or not.
OK so if you change both the oil and an additive and the results change, how are you going to know which one was responsible for the change??
I never said it would be done only once - you did. Factorial DoE relies on multiple runs with multiple variables and you let crossed analysis of variance help you pick out the diamonds from the coal.
Once good result from one additive in one engine for one oil change is statistical noise. If you want to run it because you think it's sehr gut or the chappies on the bus describe it as ausgezeichnet then go right ahead. Because both of those are about as good as a single UOA from one engine - which you seem to be putting quite a lot of faith in to determine if an additive works or not.
You are not thinking about the situation in real world terms, it would take years to do that type of analysis. Best you might get in reality is 3 or perhaps 4 OCI's, one before without the additive, one or possibly two if you have time with the additive and another without to check that the engine is still in the same condition.
If you keep spare samples, then if the results are interesting, a second set of figures with particle counts can be done later. It's easier to do this type of test in a place without big differences in temperature, otherwise you will need 6 UOA results minimum to get an idea, as you need summer and winter figures.
I don't put any real faith in a single UOA, BUT I've seen enough single results all pointing to an Fe reduction from different diesels to know this additive is worth investigating further, although the big questions about where the Fe came from that was reduced and what size of particle was involved are still not answered.
If you keep spare samples, then if the results are interesting, a second set of figures with particle counts can be done later. It's easier to do this type of test in a place without big differences in temperature, otherwise you will need 6 UOA results minimum to get an idea, as you need summer and winter figures.
I don't put any real faith in a single UOA, BUT I've seen enough single results all pointing to an Fe reduction from different diesels to know this additive is worth investigating further, although the big questions about where the Fe came from that was reduced and what size of particle was involved are still not answered.
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my experience is not good, somehow the ceratec in the long run accentuate knock noise when engine accelerate when it is still not fully warmed up, and lead to the most difficult to remove ping after a while
Originally Posted By: kr_bitog
my experience is not good, somehow the ceratec in the long run accentuate knock noise when engine accelerate when it is still not fully warmed up, and lead to the most difficult to remove ping after a while
Diesel or petrol engine?
my experience is not good, somehow the ceratec in the long run accentuate knock noise when engine accelerate when it is still not fully warmed up, and lead to the most difficult to remove ping after a while
Diesel or petrol engine?
Hi...
For those how don't believe ceratec.
We were tuning a honda integra turbo with 38psi of boost and suddenly it spike to boost cut and broken the oil pump.
At first we toot it was a blown pipe, but it wasn't nothing wrong with the pipes, in the mean time the engine is still running. After a while we heard a noise coming from near the timing belt, after we tried to figure out what happened then we checked oil pressure and it was 0 nothing at all. We toot it was the end of engine. We want to dismantle the engine to see what's happened and you won't believe it nothing happened at all the bearing were as new.
I forgot to tell you that the was raved 6000rpm after the pump broke and more than 5 minutes the engine on.
So if you guys don't believe in this, I don't know what else to say.
For those how don't believe ceratec.
We were tuning a honda integra turbo with 38psi of boost and suddenly it spike to boost cut and broken the oil pump.
At first we toot it was a blown pipe, but it wasn't nothing wrong with the pipes, in the mean time the engine is still running. After a while we heard a noise coming from near the timing belt, after we tried to figure out what happened then we checked oil pressure and it was 0 nothing at all. We toot it was the end of engine. We want to dismantle the engine to see what's happened and you won't believe it nothing happened at all the bearing were as new.
I forgot to tell you that the was raved 6000rpm after the pump broke and more than 5 minutes the engine on.
So if you guys don't believe in this, I don't know what else to say.
Originally Posted By: Hit
Hi...
For those how don't believe ceratec.
We were tuning a honda integra turbo with 38psi of boost and suddenly it spike to boost cut and broken the oil pump.
At first we toot it was a blown pipe, but it wasn't nothing wrong with the pipes, in the mean time the engine is still running. After a while we heard a noise coming from near the timing belt, after we tried to figure out what happened then we checked oil pressure and it was 0 nothing at all. We toot it was the end of engine. We want to dismantle the engine to see what's happened and you won't believe it nothing happened at all the bearing were as new.
I forgot to tell you that the was raved 6000rpm after the pump broke and more than 5 minutes the engine on.
So if you guys don't believe in this, I don't know what else to say.
Ceratec is a great product. I believe in liqui-moly products in general and I use cera-tec,mos2 and motor oil saver in my engines.
Everything I own ends up with countless hours and sky high mileage and only time they get opened up is for performance upgrades.
I've got roughly 15 cans of cera-tec stockpiled along with 8-10 cans of mos2 and a few cans if motor oil saver in case I come across a leaker that needs nursing until a proper repair can be done.
Last week a friend I turned in to mos2 hit a pothole in his windstar and ended up puncturing the oil pan. It doesn't have an oil pressure gauge,just a light that comes on when there's no pressure.
I don't know if it was due to the cold or what but after driving for 5 minutes without any oil he noticed the light and pulled over.
He's been using mos2 in the engine for 4 oil changes now.
So he calls me and explains the situation.
I get there with a jug of 5w-30 expecting the worst. I jacked it up,saw the hole and got a tow truck to take it to my friends garage and I we welded a patch til he can afford a new pan and at that point we weren't even sure it would start.
So as I cut the filter open looking for shrapnel he added oil and started it up.
The oil filter was free of any debris which shocked me and when it started I didn't hear anything funky or different.
I changed the oil yesterday as a preventative measure and no visible metal flake was present.
So that windstar already has 300k and was driven. Around in city traffic for 5 minutes with no oil and there isn't any glaring issues as of yet.
Without oil I expect the engine to lock up in a couple minutes,not drive around downtown for 5 minutes and still turn over.
The liqui-moly products are certainly something else. I attribute the engine running still to mos2 and that alone.
Sure there may be some issues that haven't presented themselves yet however the engines ability to still run is testament to mos2 in itself.
Cera-tec is even better
Hi...
For those how don't believe ceratec.
We were tuning a honda integra turbo with 38psi of boost and suddenly it spike to boost cut and broken the oil pump.
At first we toot it was a blown pipe, but it wasn't nothing wrong with the pipes, in the mean time the engine is still running. After a while we heard a noise coming from near the timing belt, after we tried to figure out what happened then we checked oil pressure and it was 0 nothing at all. We toot it was the end of engine. We want to dismantle the engine to see what's happened and you won't believe it nothing happened at all the bearing were as new.
I forgot to tell you that the was raved 6000rpm after the pump broke and more than 5 minutes the engine on.
So if you guys don't believe in this, I don't know what else to say.
Ceratec is a great product. I believe in liqui-moly products in general and I use cera-tec,mos2 and motor oil saver in my engines.
Everything I own ends up with countless hours and sky high mileage and only time they get opened up is for performance upgrades.
I've got roughly 15 cans of cera-tec stockpiled along with 8-10 cans of mos2 and a few cans if motor oil saver in case I come across a leaker that needs nursing until a proper repair can be done.
Last week a friend I turned in to mos2 hit a pothole in his windstar and ended up puncturing the oil pan. It doesn't have an oil pressure gauge,just a light that comes on when there's no pressure.
I don't know if it was due to the cold or what but after driving for 5 minutes without any oil he noticed the light and pulled over.
He's been using mos2 in the engine for 4 oil changes now.
So he calls me and explains the situation.
I get there with a jug of 5w-30 expecting the worst. I jacked it up,saw the hole and got a tow truck to take it to my friends garage and I we welded a patch til he can afford a new pan and at that point we weren't even sure it would start.
So as I cut the filter open looking for shrapnel he added oil and started it up.
The oil filter was free of any debris which shocked me and when it started I didn't hear anything funky or different.
I changed the oil yesterday as a preventative measure and no visible metal flake was present.
So that windstar already has 300k and was driven. Around in city traffic for 5 minutes with no oil and there isn't any glaring issues as of yet.
Without oil I expect the engine to lock up in a couple minutes,not drive around downtown for 5 minutes and still turn over.
The liqui-moly products are certainly something else. I attribute the engine running still to mos2 and that alone.
Sure there may be some issues that haven't presented themselves yet however the engines ability to still run is testament to mos2 in itself.
Cera-tec is even better
Thanks to all that have posted in this tread about Ceratec and hexagonal boron nitride to be more specific. At this point brand names and price is of little interest but quality and price will become a concern when and if I decide to use it in all of our engines.
What started my search for newer type additives that lead to info on the hexagonal boron nitride was the 16 year old son and I bought a GRAY 2002 Polaris Magnum 325 ATV with a known blown engine due to the owner blowing an oil cooler hose and riding until he heard it hammering going down a paved road.
We have another ATV (Green)that is of the same 2000-2002 Magnum 325 era but it turned out the chassis on a 2002 with the blown engine (would idle fine but knock and die if given gas). Since the son needed some wrenching experience I decided to make it a shop project. We were able to pull the connecting rod without splitting the crankcase by working through the jug hole.
It had a totally spun rod inserts, trashed rod and a sick crank and some light cylinder/piston scoring with the cam still in spec. Cold compression was 95 PSI with throttle open after 5 compression strokes using the starter motor.
To keep our training parts cost low we put it (Gray) back together buying only new rings, rod bearing inserts and top end gasket set plus a used connecting rod for a total of $120. We worked to remove as much rod bearing material from the crank as we could by hand working though the jug hole.
Our first two objectives were to prove or disprove one can pull the rod and replace it without cracking the crank case because our research did not turn up a way it could be down. After we proved it could be removed we wanted to see if we could manually clean up the crank and put it back together and get it to run.
I was totally caught off guard by advances like using hexagonal boron nitride in engine oil. I was thinking about cubic boron nitride which is a diamond like abrasive I guess.
We have put 11 hours of idle time on the Gray 325 Magnum engine but not ridden it yet. At idle there is no knock but I hear some knock if I briefly hit the throttle but those engines knock a lot from new. It has good power and will rev high quickly. With my tool and die background I never expected it would have held together for 11 hours due to the damaged crank shaft rod bearing surface and expect it may be out of round a bit from prior damage.
After reading this tread I came up with four bottles of Liqui Moly Ceratec which we premixed per the label (2 oz per quart of oil I think) with Mobil 1 10W-40 High Mileage before we put it in the crank case. With the spark plug out we bought up the oil pressure several times with the starter and watched the oil come out on top the cam through the intake valve adjusting plug hole. Then we put in a new OEM spark plug and started running the engine expecting it to fly apart.
For our lab control in the Ceratec evaluation we did the same with the Green twin ATV by replacing the rings with matching brand used in the Gray ATV with the damaged crank and replace the rod bearing inserts with the same OEM inserts used in the Gray one and a new top engine gasket set and spark plug. Its crank and rod bearings looked new like. As with the Gray one we filled it with the 10W-40 Mobil 1 HM oil except with NO additives. It has been started and ran 15-20 minutes but its carb that I had rebuilt was loading up really bad I want to check out why the carb is loading up before we wash the new rings with gas.
As a recap both 325 engines have new rings, connecting rod bearings and top end gasket sets with the same motor oil. The Gray one got the Ceratec trying to see if it will coat the damaged crank before it cuts out the new rod insert bearings.
The Gray ATV has 11 hours of NON riding run time done at a fast idle with Ceratec in the Mobil oil premixed before filling the crankcase to the full mark.
Our work space is in a very old and holey garage with a Harbor Freight silver tarp for a door. The high today was 8F degrees but we are to see 50F this weekend and should have a new carb kit Wed.
I have since learned there are other brands of additives containing hexagonal boron nitride but this round of testing will be with more or less identical engines both have the same motor oil but only the Gray one with the bad crank due to have been ran without motor oil had Liqui Moly Ceratec added to the Mobil 1 oil
If it starts hammering after the 11 hours of non riding run time we will plan to do the tear down before it fly's apart to see what kind of ceramic coating formed or did not form on the moving parts. We will have to see some mild weather before we do much more other than get both carbs checked out.
We were shooting different parts with an IR temp gun. For the first hour the cylinder temps ran 25F degrees hotter then the last 10 ours of run time. The first hour was a struggle for the engine based on sound and we could hear the RPM increase after the first hour but that is subjective data.
Thanks again for putting me on to Ceratec. Time will tell the tell before we put it in the other 19 engines we have from lawn mowers to diesel tractors and a big block Ford and Chevy engine. By the way the 16 year old son is coming along well and put both back together and correctly torqued all bolts per the Polaris shop manual.
What started my search for newer type additives that lead to info on the hexagonal boron nitride was the 16 year old son and I bought a GRAY 2002 Polaris Magnum 325 ATV with a known blown engine due to the owner blowing an oil cooler hose and riding until he heard it hammering going down a paved road.
We have another ATV (Green)that is of the same 2000-2002 Magnum 325 era but it turned out the chassis on a 2002 with the blown engine (would idle fine but knock and die if given gas). Since the son needed some wrenching experience I decided to make it a shop project. We were able to pull the connecting rod without splitting the crankcase by working through the jug hole.
It had a totally spun rod inserts, trashed rod and a sick crank and some light cylinder/piston scoring with the cam still in spec. Cold compression was 95 PSI with throttle open after 5 compression strokes using the starter motor.
To keep our training parts cost low we put it (Gray) back together buying only new rings, rod bearing inserts and top end gasket set plus a used connecting rod for a total of $120. We worked to remove as much rod bearing material from the crank as we could by hand working though the jug hole.
Our first two objectives were to prove or disprove one can pull the rod and replace it without cracking the crank case because our research did not turn up a way it could be down. After we proved it could be removed we wanted to see if we could manually clean up the crank and put it back together and get it to run.
I was totally caught off guard by advances like using hexagonal boron nitride in engine oil. I was thinking about cubic boron nitride which is a diamond like abrasive I guess.
We have put 11 hours of idle time on the Gray 325 Magnum engine but not ridden it yet. At idle there is no knock but I hear some knock if I briefly hit the throttle but those engines knock a lot from new. It has good power and will rev high quickly. With my tool and die background I never expected it would have held together for 11 hours due to the damaged crank shaft rod bearing surface and expect it may be out of round a bit from prior damage.
After reading this tread I came up with four bottles of Liqui Moly Ceratec which we premixed per the label (2 oz per quart of oil I think) with Mobil 1 10W-40 High Mileage before we put it in the crank case. With the spark plug out we bought up the oil pressure several times with the starter and watched the oil come out on top the cam through the intake valve adjusting plug hole. Then we put in a new OEM spark plug and started running the engine expecting it to fly apart.
For our lab control in the Ceratec evaluation we did the same with the Green twin ATV by replacing the rings with matching brand used in the Gray ATV with the damaged crank and replace the rod bearing inserts with the same OEM inserts used in the Gray one and a new top engine gasket set and spark plug. Its crank and rod bearings looked new like. As with the Gray one we filled it with the 10W-40 Mobil 1 HM oil except with NO additives. It has been started and ran 15-20 minutes but its carb that I had rebuilt was loading up really bad I want to check out why the carb is loading up before we wash the new rings with gas.
As a recap both 325 engines have new rings, connecting rod bearings and top end gasket sets with the same motor oil. The Gray one got the Ceratec trying to see if it will coat the damaged crank before it cuts out the new rod insert bearings.
The Gray ATV has 11 hours of NON riding run time done at a fast idle with Ceratec in the Mobil oil premixed before filling the crankcase to the full mark.
Our work space is in a very old and holey garage with a Harbor Freight silver tarp for a door. The high today was 8F degrees but we are to see 50F this weekend and should have a new carb kit Wed.
I have since learned there are other brands of additives containing hexagonal boron nitride but this round of testing will be with more or less identical engines both have the same motor oil but only the Gray one with the bad crank due to have been ran without motor oil had Liqui Moly Ceratec added to the Mobil 1 oil
If it starts hammering after the 11 hours of non riding run time we will plan to do the tear down before it fly's apart to see what kind of ceramic coating formed or did not form on the moving parts. We will have to see some mild weather before we do much more other than get both carbs checked out.
We were shooting different parts with an IR temp gun. For the first hour the cylinder temps ran 25F degrees hotter then the last 10 ours of run time. The first hour was a struggle for the engine based on sound and we could hear the RPM increase after the first hour but that is subjective data.
Thanks again for putting me on to Ceratec. Time will tell the tell before we put it in the other 19 engines we have from lawn mowers to diesel tractors and a big block Ford and Chevy engine. By the way the 16 year old son is coming along well and put both back together and correctly torqued all bolts per the Polaris shop manual.
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I've been doing a lot of reading up on this product, here and in other places. While I think it is a good product, like others they make I was a little disappointed to find out from the company that once you use this product they recommend you don't use anything else. In other words if you do an initial treatment with Ceratec, DO NOT use MoS2 in subsequent oil changes. Although a little vague, here is their reply to an email I sent them.
I asked how long they recommend waiting to add it to a new car, and if MoS2 could be used in subsequent oil changes.
Not that that's a bad thing, but it has been discussed before here, and I think there are a few members switching off, etc.
Dear Mr. Dexxx,
thank you very much for contacting us and your interest in our LIQUI MOLY products.
CEAR TEC is a combination of a chemical friction modifier and a solid lubricant,. It increases lubrication and reduces friction and wear. We recommend you to use CERA TEC from beginning on, even the car is brand new. So you´ll have the best prevention and protection from beginning on.
The ideal dosage of CERA TEC is around 6%.
If you use CERA TEC please do not add anozher friction modifier like MoS2 into the oil because CERA TEC is already a friction modifier.
Please see the attachement for further product informations :
We hope we could help you with our informations. Should you have further questions regarding our products we would be very pleased to get contacted from you again.
Best regards
I asked how long they recommend waiting to add it to a new car, and if MoS2 could be used in subsequent oil changes.
Not that that's a bad thing, but it has been discussed before here, and I think there are a few members switching off, etc.
Dear Mr. Dexxx,
thank you very much for contacting us and your interest in our LIQUI MOLY products.
CEAR TEC is a combination of a chemical friction modifier and a solid lubricant,. It increases lubrication and reduces friction and wear. We recommend you to use CERA TEC from beginning on, even the car is brand new. So you´ll have the best prevention and protection from beginning on.
The ideal dosage of CERA TEC is around 6%.
If you use CERA TEC please do not add anozher friction modifier like MoS2 into the oil because CERA TEC is already a friction modifier.
Please see the attachement for further product informations :
We hope we could help you with our informations. Should you have further questions regarding our products we would be very pleased to get contacted from you again.
Best regards
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