Will a dead cell battery cause a car to not start?

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TechnoLoGs

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Hello. Another issue for you: Went to try to start the S10, and it is presently at a crank no start condition. I noticed it turned over very weakly, and seeing as how there was a parasitic drain (console lights come on when the battery is hooked up, in that order. No opening or closing of doors or pushing of buttons affects it, there is one more switch I could check but I am not so sure it will solve that) - So the battery was low. I walked it to Pep Boys.

The test of the battery result was, typing from receipt of battery check: (Had sat all night, so this was not an artificially high reading from a battery that just came in off the road)

I had a NAPA battery in it, I may be eligible for free replacement though I don't have my receipt with me.
smirk.gif


Rating:
650CCA
Beginning: 5.42 V
670 CCA
Ending: 5.45V
670CCA

BATTERY CONDITION:

** Bad-Cell Replace ***

smirk.gif


So.. With battery condition like that, would a crank no start be expected?
 
Absolutely. THe only time Ive had a battery fail was the OE battery on my saab. For a few years, I had been on rotational assignments, and the car sat for long times without a topping charge. That is known to be bad for the battery.

We were driving out to Chicago, and stopped for gas outside Gary, IN, of all places. Car was fine, drove perfect, started and stopped the whole way along the trip... And then one last time shut off and no start. Nothing. One guy tried to jump us, couldnt start the car. Saw 8.5V or something like that. Called a towtruck, he atttached his cables and we still couldnt jump it.

We finally tricked the car into cranking by shorting the starter with a screwdriver, with the towtruck jumping it.

But moral of the story is that a shored cell can prevent cranking, even with a jump.
 
When I had a bad battery in the Cherokee, it wouldn't idle at stop signs. When it would die, it would crank and crank and crank and barely start back up. Usually, right about the time the battery didn't have enough left to turn over the starter, it'd fire back up.

Also - my gas mileage had a definite improvement with the new battery, the headlights were brighter and the alternator wasn't whistling all the time! The voltage is much more steadier.
 
^^^^ Sweet. I knew it had to be something dumb.

We need to keep or fingers crossed, because I could get free replacement from NAPA. The only issue is that I do not remember them asking me for my info, and going to the one I bought it from is not exactly possible right now. Do you think NAPA will recognize their own battery, and replace it? Or will they give me the third degree and say "no" and not acknowledge that their guy did a rushed sale, and did not ask for my info to put in computer? (Unless he did and I just dont remember, in which case I am good.)

That was a low reading on the battery, for sure. All I am doing is relaying what is happening.
 
An easy way to find out would be a phone call to the store. Ask for the manager and explain your situation.
 
A dead cell means 2 volts are gone already,so you now have a 10.+ volt unit.
 
Originally Posted By: NHGUY
A dead cell means 2 volts are gone already,so you now have a 10.+ volt unit.


Yup. Enough to turn it but not enough to make it turn over, yes!

Here

DSCN0927_zpsdcde2434.jpg


If NAPA doesn't honor their free replacement, which battery should I get?

I can select from:

- EverStart
- ProStart
- Bosch (?) - these two are Pep Boys
- Advance
- Autozone
- K-mart
 
Advance. Buy online and use discount codes. Do so thoughtfully (with right code and possible filler purchase and save $40.)
Get either Silver or Gold. Silver is usually the best buy (unless there are additional incentives.)
 
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
^^^^ Sweet. I knew it had to be something dumb.

We need to keep or fingers crossed, because I could get free replacement from NAPA. The only issue is that I do not remember them asking me for my info, and going to the one I bought it from is not exactly possible right now. Do you think NAPA will recognize their own battery, and replace it? Or will they give me the third degree and say "no" and not acknowledge that their guy did a rushed sale, and did not ask for my info to put in computer? (Unless he did and I just dont remember, in which case I am good.)

That was a low reading on the battery, for sure. All I am doing is relaying what is happening.


Don't bother. Napa is sleazy ... When my NAPA battery died, it would have cost MORE to use the pro-rated warranty than just to buy a new one. So I drove somewhere else and got one.

Shame on me for not reading the fine print on their questionable business practices.
 
NAPA is quite unlikely to help you without a receipt. In fact they will look at you like you have two heads.

Walmart is much more friendly; they'll go off the date code.

If I had to buy new I'd get an advance silver with online coupon.
 
Walmart website still says 3 years free replacement and 2 additional years prorated. This makes Walmart's battery warranty equivalent to Advance autos Gold. But you would need an AA discount code to match or beat Walmart's price. While I think the Everstart are good, I'd probably rather have the AA battery just in case Walmart is forcing their supplier to cut some corners.
 
Originally Posted By: mechanicx
Walmart Everstart batteries are another option. They are usually JCI and the price is good. I think they have like a 3 year free replacement plus 2 year prorated. They just give you a new battery if it fails during the 3 year warranty. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Everstart-Maxx-75N-Automotive-Battery/16782711


This battery has rather HORRIBLE reviews. Have you clicked the link, and read them?

eek.gif


I almost want to call it JCI's "fail." Also, some are Exide..

Umm, Who makes Bosch and ProStart?

And who thinks NAPA will be able to find me in their system and will swap my battery tomrrow? I bought this battery less than a month ago. It clearly is NAPA. $65 Group 75 unit. I almost got the Group 78 dual post..
 
Those reviews don't mean as much as you think. Consumer Reports ranked Everstart highly. I don't trust them to rate a entire car based on consumer reporting, but when they lab test a simple product I think it's valid. I knew someone who worked at Walmart TLE and said the batteries generally held up good.
 
Originally Posted By: mechanicx
Those reviews don't mean as much as you think. Consumer Reports ranked Everstart highly. I don't trust them to rate a entire car based on consumer reporting, but when they lab test a simple product I think it's valid. I knew someone who worked at Walmart TLE and said the batteries generally held up good.


Cool, I appreciate the clarification. Because, I don't see any reason why NAPA wouldn't be able to look me up in the system, unless they chose not to?? ......... not pleased.. However, IF they go that route of not valuing me as a customer, the question THEN becomes what battery to put in.

How is Walmart's dual post? Ids it Group 78, the DT?
 
The 78 series might be a tight fit. I wouldn't want dual post. I think Advance auto and Walmart's battery is about equal. If I bought the battery at Walmart I would ask that it was tested first, and if test good it should be fine.

The parts stores should be able to look up your customer history to see the battery purchase, but sometimes the history falls out of the record. Walmart just scans the UPC and seem to have the records so the receipt or customer name doesn't matter.
 
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