When a float charger is in maintain mode it supplies 0.2-0.3A to the battery to maintain the voltage at 13.2-13.3V. What is the actual power used ? Is it safe to say it uses 4W(0.3A x 13.3V) plus 20-30% power lost for AC-DC converter ?
Power Consumption of Float Charger/Maintainer ?
- Thread starter HTSS_TR
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for transformer type float charger, 0.3A @13.3VDC + transformer loss (approx. 60% efficiency), makes it up to approx 7Watts.
For switchers (approx. 80% efficiency), it will be approx 5Watts.
Not much difference in this case.
Q.
For switchers (approx. 80% efficiency), it will be approx 5Watts.
Not much difference in this case.
Q.
You would be safe plugging it in for 6 hours/day via a timer. But how much electricity will the timer consume?
Other than using "Kill-A-Watt" to measure power consumption, is there a safe/easy way to do it with a multimeter?
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Other than using "Kill-A-Watt" to measure power consumption, is there a safe/easy way to do it with a multimeter?
If your DVM has AC amps, you put the probes in series with one side of the AC. But most DVMs only support a small current flow in that configuration. And remember its 110V AC on the probes so it can kill. Then multiply the amps by 110 or whatever the voltage is (it will be close to 110V).
Other than using "Kill-A-Watt" to measure power consumption, is there a safe/easy way to do it with a multimeter?
If your DVM has AC amps, you put the probes in series with one side of the AC. But most DVMs only support a small current flow in that configuration. And remember its 110V AC on the probes so it can kill. Then multiply the amps by 110 or whatever the voltage is (it will be close to 110V).
Looks like "Kill-A-Watt" is the safest way to measure power consumption of a device/appliance.
kill-a-watt should do good when it comes to measuring anything that typically consumes just a couple of watts or so.
Any higher currents (in terms of a few Amps or higher), an AC inductive clamp-meter is what I'd use.
Lastly: I'd be more worried about standby idling power consumption on things like TeeVees, computer, etc. and home appliances that don't have hard/physical power on-off switch to that of a float charger, for those mentioned devices typically consumes between 4~10Watts @ idle (e.g. desktop PC typically idles between 6~11Watts even though you hit the power button off).
Those idle-watts do add up, you know.
Q.
Any higher currents (in terms of a few Amps or higher), an AC inductive clamp-meter is what I'd use.
Lastly: I'd be more worried about standby idling power consumption on things like TeeVees, computer, etc. and home appliances that don't have hard/physical power on-off switch to that of a float charger, for those mentioned devices typically consumes between 4~10Watts @ idle (e.g. desktop PC typically idles between 6~11Watts even though you hit the power button off).
Those idle-watts do add up, you know.
Q.
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Looks like "Kill-A-Watt" is the safest way to measure power consumption of a device/appliance.
If you can do it with one hand behind your back you will be safe. That was standard when working on old tube TVs.
Looks like "Kill-A-Watt" is the safest way to measure power consumption of a device/appliance.
If you can do it with one hand behind your back you will be safe. That was standard when working on old tube TVs.
It's nearly impossible to put the probes in series on one side of the AC lines with one hand behind my back. Also my DVM has no AC Amp, only DC Amp.
I had posted some current numbers from HF float chargers hooked up to a jumpstart block and they were ridiculously small aka milliamp range.
Are you measuring a fully charged battery aka really "floating" or on a battery which is still being charged?
Are you measuring a fully charged battery aka really "floating" or on a battery which is still being charged?
I like to measure power consumption of a fully charged battery in maintain/float mode.
I expect that the current draw from the wall outlet is in tens milliamps when the charger is in maintain/float mode, so the power consumption should be less than 6-8 watts. Also, the power consumption of a timer should be known to see if you hook up the charger with timer on for 4-5 hours do you save power or not.
I expect that the current draw from the wall outlet is in tens milliamps when the charger is in maintain/float mode, so the power consumption should be less than 6-8 watts. Also, the power consumption of a timer should be known to see if you hook up the charger with timer on for 4-5 hours do you save power or not.
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
I like to measure power consumption of a fully charged battery in maintain/float mode.
I expect that the current draw from the wall outlet is in tens milliamps when the charger is in maintain/float mode, so the power consumption should be less than 6-8 watts. Also, the power consumption of a timer should be known to see if you hook up the charger with timer on for 4-5 hours do you save power or not.
Id never put it on a timer. This makes the charger go through a full charge cycle each time, taking the voltage up higher than needed. It would be much better to have one with good current control to very low levels, and then just leave it on.. If I were putting it on a timer, Id do it much less often, like a week on then a week off.
I like to measure power consumption of a fully charged battery in maintain/float mode.
I expect that the current draw from the wall outlet is in tens milliamps when the charger is in maintain/float mode, so the power consumption should be less than 6-8 watts. Also, the power consumption of a timer should be known to see if you hook up the charger with timer on for 4-5 hours do you save power or not.
Id never put it on a timer. This makes the charger go through a full charge cycle each time, taking the voltage up higher than needed. It would be much better to have one with good current control to very low levels, and then just leave it on.. If I were putting it on a timer, Id do it much less often, like a week on then a week off.
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: GMBoy
I imagine a desktop computer sitting on standby consumes more power than a trickle charger.
Yeah. The pf is likely horrible, but residential customers don't pay that way.
A good charger should be able to go to 5mA at 13.4 (ish, temp-dependent) volts.
I imagine a desktop computer sitting on standby consumes more power than a trickle charger.
Yeah. The pf is likely horrible, but residential customers don't pay that way.
A good charger should be able to go to 5mA at 13.4 (ish, temp-dependent) volts.
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