2001 corolla timing tensioner o ring leaking

[Mazda3LA]

Hello everyone,

Just purchased a 2001 corolla with 52,000 miles yesterday. Took it to the toyota dealership for an inspection. Everything looked good but some minor things like a couple of bulbs and wipers that need to be replaced. The biggest thing was that they noticed that the timing tensioner o ring was leaking. Since i'm not a mechanic, does this seem like something that would be expensive to have replaced. Didn't get a quote from the dealership because they wanted more time with the car to diagnose how bad the leak was.

Thanks for the help!

Martin

 

[Bottom_Feeder]

Jeez, what prompted them to look that deep into the engine? The timing chain tensioner is not exactly easily accessible.

 

[scurvy]

Originally Posted By: Bottom_Feeder
Jeez, what prompted them to look that deep into the engine? The timing chain tensioner is not exactly easily accessible.


Revenue increase, naturally.

I'd take it to a Toyota specialist independent shop and get their opinion before I'd darken the doorstep of a stealership again.

 

[ChemicallyChargd]

Yea no joke now that I think about it why they would've gone that deep, consider yourself lucky that's all they found if they really did. Yes it sounds like it could easily be done on a day where you've got a couple hours of time, it shouldn't be ridiculous as far as cost, worst case is they have to remove the valve cover(I've done this more than once and doesn't take but 5-15 minutes depending on how quick you are) to access the tensioner and replace said part. To give you more on the engine it's a 1zz-fe and won an award for cleanest burning engine, passing low emission vehicle standards WITHOUT a catalytic converter.
-srv

 

[mikered30]

DIY: http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/Toyota-Corolla-Timing-Chain-Tensioner-Oil-Leak-Repair-Guide/

 

[Bladecutter]

Some of you don't really know what you're talking about.

The Timing Chain Tensioner on a Corolla motor is on the back side of the cylinder head, right next to the serpentine belt. You can check it for a leak by rubbing your hand all around it, and feeling if there is oil there. No oil = no leak. Oil = Leak.

Tensioners are cheap, and come with the o-ring seal.
$27 at Advance Auto Parts.

You don't have to take off the valve cover, but it will help you feel more at ease with the whole job. It's about a 30 minute job, tops.

BC.

 

[ChemicallyChargd]

Actually I just looked it up on Google and its bolted onto the outside of the block so good news is If your up to it you can do it yourself at the price of the gasket which shouldn't be more than a couple dollars. It's a simple remove and replace and could easily be done on a cool Saturday morning and be done before lunch.
-srv

 

[Mazda3LA]

Thanks everyone for replying. Just took it to my independent toyota mechanic. Showed me where it was leaking. Bladecutter is right. It is behind the block and can be easily seen if it's leaking or not. The mechanic quoted me 120 to fix it.

 

[LazyPrizm]

I just did this repair on my 2002 Prizm in March, and it was only about 2hrs (and I'm not very mechanically inclined). Most of the time wasted was the last step, rotating the chain to disengage the hook on the tensioner -- it might just be the Prizm's AC system, but the alternator's blocked off by the condenser. I had to get under the car and rotate a different pulley. It helps to have a set of deep and regular sockets as well, the clearance back there is very tight because of the cruise control housing.

If you want to do it yourself, you can get the Toyota part online for about $28 shipped. The local stealership wanted $44 for the part, and threw in some attitude when I asked for a quote. I wasn't able to find a part # for just the gasket itself.

In addition to Paul's guide, there's a good step by step on corolland.com. He pulls the valve cover, but that's not needed (it includes instructions if you don't).

Here's a pic of the mess my old tensioner was making:

And here's the new and old tensioners side by side. The gasket on the old one was completely "smooshed" flat; you can see the new one is nice and round. Also see the effects of running too far with too little oil!

Good luck whichever way you go! I'd be glad to help if you have any further questions about DIY.