It's really cold here in Siberia- oh sorry I mean Massachusetts- and 2001 Eclipse starts fine but when I turn the key in the ignition it does not start as quickly as it did in warm weather. I'd like to thin out the oil a little bit and see if this helps...how much Marvel Mystery Oil should I add to my crankcase? It has a capacity of 4.2 quarts and I'm using 5w-30 M1 synthetic.
How much marvel mystery oil to help cold starts?
- Thread starter Chuck1986
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I wouldnt add it to the oil. 5w-30 is plenty thin enough, add 4 oz per 10 gallons of gas to tank. 5 w oil should be thi enough til temps hit -25 F. Been warmish last few days in my part of MA.
No way around harder starts in cold weather. Just a fact of life.
I'm with andyd, my answer is "none."
Adding MMO to crankacse oil might have been 'OK' 20-30+ years ago when everyone was using Group I mineral-based straight weights ... but with modern synthetic multi-viscosity oils you aren't going to improve them by adding a solvent-laden lubricant like MMO.
You'll likely just increase the rate of wear.
Want the vehicle to start better? Try an Optima Red Top battery and keep the fuel system moisture free.
--- Bror Jace
Adding MMO to crankacse oil might have been 'OK' 20-30+ years ago when everyone was using Group I mineral-based straight weights ... but with modern synthetic multi-viscosity oils you aren't going to improve them by adding a solvent-laden lubricant like MMO.
You'll likely just increase the rate of wear.
Want the vehicle to start better? Try an Optima Red Top battery and keep the fuel system moisture free.
--- Bror Jace
Go ahead and add the recommended dose - just until you can rapidly get the oil changed.
OOPS - you are using M1 5W-30?????
I don't get it.
I did thin down my 50/50 Ams/Pennz 15W-40 and VSOT with LC successfully.
OOPS - you are using M1 5W-30?????
I don't get it.
I did thin down my 50/50 Ams/Pennz 15W-40 and VSOT with LC successfully.
i've got one of those red tops, the thing is like 8 years old and still cranks it at -20F, i can't imagine how well a new one would work.
switch to 0w30 if you are really concerned. or get a block heater. don't add mmo to the crankcase.
switch to 0w30 if you are really concerned. or get a block heater. don't add mmo to the crankcase.
As stated above, add 4oz/10gal to the fuel and you may actually see easier starts, as a number of people who add MMO to gas have stated.
I definitely noticed easier normal cold starts when I started using MMO in the fuel in recommended dose, but not sure whether it translates into better cold-cold starts.
I don't think it would hurt to add to crankcase in regular dose, especially in winter, and it would probably have some positive effects. I doubt you would notice any change in cranking, though.
If you are having trouble then it is probably an old battery, a starter motor going bad or possibly imperfect ignition components. If all those are good and the engine is healthy you should have no problems with the recommended oil.
- Glenn
I don't think it would hurt to add to crankcase in regular dose, especially in winter, and it would probably have some positive effects. I doubt you would notice any change in cranking, though.
If you are having trouble then it is probably an old battery, a starter motor going bad or possibly imperfect ignition components. If all those are good and the engine is healthy you should have no problems with the recommended oil.
- Glenn
I use FP with every other tank.
I have heard of adding 2 stroke oil to the tank as well to help lubricate--> Injectors-UpperValveTrain-Fuel Pump.
With my older Autos I use MMO with FP as well in the Fuel Tank.
Anyone else Use 2 stroke oil in their fuel tanks?
I was thinking maybe 16 oz. per 20gal of Fuel.
I also wonder why type of 2 stroke oil?
There are alot out there.
Any ideas or thoughts?
I have heard of adding 2 stroke oil to the tank as well to help lubricate--> Injectors-UpperValveTrain-Fuel Pump.
With my older Autos I use MMO with FP as well in the Fuel Tank.
Anyone else Use 2 stroke oil in their fuel tanks?
I was thinking maybe 16 oz. per 20gal of Fuel.
I also wonder why type of 2 stroke oil?
There are alot out there.
Any ideas or thoughts?
I think he means that the engine is simply taking longer to start after turning the key, not so much that it's turning over slowly. My Prelude does the exact same thing. I just consider it a minor annoyance.
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Either way, I doubt that a thinned out oil will help any. I wouldn't use MMO for that purpose alone when you can pickup a batch of 5w-20 oil and change it out if you're determined to run a lighter viscosity.
That way you have a pure manufactured and formulated oil without solvents added and you KNOW what viscosity is in there. With MMO simply poured in it's hard to say what you'll end up with. I don't believe you'll experience signifigant wear if you take the MMO route though a UOA that measures parts per million will undoubtedly show some wear increase.
Note that I say signifigant and by that I mean "oh dear lord the engine is about to blow up because of this freakin' MMO." In the long haul a single OCI or 2 with this stuff added won't kill anything unless it was already teetering on the edge. It's solvent content is nowhere near the level of a pure engine flush or B-12 Chemtool and will flash off once the oil is at temp.
Assuming you're crankcase is full I wouldn't add more than 15oz. Most engines can handle a 1/2qt overfill. I wouldn't add more than that even if you're a quart low though MMO instructions say otherwise. Just add in 15 - 16oz and top off with real oil.
Ditto on adding a little to the fuel. Works for me but I'm in FL so it never gets that cold here.
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Either way, I doubt that a thinned out oil will help any. I wouldn't use MMO for that purpose alone when you can pickup a batch of 5w-20 oil and change it out if you're determined to run a lighter viscosity.
That way you have a pure manufactured and formulated oil without solvents added and you KNOW what viscosity is in there. With MMO simply poured in it's hard to say what you'll end up with. I don't believe you'll experience signifigant wear if you take the MMO route though a UOA that measures parts per million will undoubtedly show some wear increase.
Note that I say signifigant and by that I mean "oh dear lord the engine is about to blow up because of this freakin' MMO." In the long haul a single OCI or 2 with this stuff added won't kill anything unless it was already teetering on the edge. It's solvent content is nowhere near the level of a pure engine flush or B-12 Chemtool and will flash off once the oil is at temp.
Assuming you're crankcase is full I wouldn't add more than 15oz. Most engines can handle a 1/2qt overfill. I wouldn't add more than that even if you're a quart low though MMO instructions say otherwise. Just add in 15 - 16oz and top off with real oil.
Ditto on adding a little to the fuel. Works for me but I'm in FL so it never gets that cold here.
Synthetic oil does not thicken in cold, not even real cold, temperatures, so your oil is already as thin as it is when its warm out. I'd add nothing. Make sure your battery is still good. I always use a battery with about 200 more cold cranking amps (not mere cranking amps) than the vehicle came stock with. The more cold cranking amps, the better the vehicle starts in cold weather. Just make sure that a new battery will fit in your battery holder plate. Optimas are overrated and overpriced. There's plenty of other big name batteries out there that will do the job for a lot less money and last 4 years or more.
I think you might have to recheck your information..
What's a RedTop rated at? I jusr bought an Interstate MTP-24, rated at 880CCA. Is the RedTop REALLY likely to have more capacity or muscle behind it than that? I thought the joy of the RedTop was that it takes abuse imposed by the rigors of off-roading, etc.
But purely as a battery starting your car, what's the magic?
Easy on the VSOT, btw. I added it to my 4 Qt. 0W-40 change a week ago, and it's tapping for about 5 seconds at startup. I take it the stuff increases cold weather viscosity?
TO: 55
I've read numerous statements in various different places that compared to conventional oil, synthetic oil pours easier and faster, flows better, does not get thick and sluggish, etc., in cold, even very cold, weather. Experts, oil companies, users, researchers, motor vehicle columnists, etc., all claim this.
I've read numerous statements in various different places that compared to conventional oil, synthetic oil pours easier and faster, flows better, does not get thick and sluggish, etc., in cold, even very cold, weather. Experts, oil companies, users, researchers, motor vehicle columnists, etc., all claim this.
It just doesn't thicken as much or as quickly as a conventional oil of the same SAE rating.
A synthetic still has a pour point, but it's just much lower typically.
A synthetic still has a pour point, but it's just much lower typically.
This thread makes me wonder something. With my 2002 Grand Am, the first winter I had it I never got any winter startup noise, even -20 temperatures wouldn't create any kind of extra noises within the first 10 seconds. The second winter I had switched to a synthetic (Mobil 1 5w-30 SuperSyn), I had startup noise if it was below 5 degrees F. Then this winter I started it at 10 degrees F with a 15w-40(Rotella T) and didn't get any startup noise, although the starter did crank slower. Then I switched it with this winters winter oil, Amsoil 5w-30 and the next day it was the 15 degrees and I noticed a little bit of the noise I noticed with Mobil 1, and if its -5 degrees F or colder it will make a destinct groan for 10-15 seconds and suddenly stop making the noise. I'm considering Halvoline 5w-30 or 5w-20 that I used to do without that noise. There would have to be some kind of wear happening with that noise. I suppose that the increased piston slap with synthetics isnt making more wear but it makes me wonder why it is there. It confuses me. Any insight?
My 99WS6 TA used to do the same thing with Mobil 1. When I would switch to dino,just before I sold it, it seemed to run better. So now I use dino oils for my cars.
It seems that the more I search the forum I am finding this with synthetic oils. I don't understand how an oil that is closer to an ideal viscosity is worse than an oil significantly thinner. Could it be how much of the oil stays where it is needed for the next start up? How polar(sticky) are synthetics, I thought they were supposed to be better? Aren't they? I'm going back to Halvoline sometime this weekend or this week sometime. Does anybody know of synthetics that don't cause this problem. If Mobil 1 and Amsoil do that for me what could I switch to. I can't find any good GC in my area. Suggestions for a good synth. to switch to. I'm planning on selling my car over the next month and if someone shows up and we start the car and hear the sounds I've been hearing it's going to be one possible buyer walking away over another.
MNDriver, sounds like your engine likes the thicker oil if all else is equal(using same brand of oil filter with oil correctly topped off).
If that is the case, try the 50wts(Mobil1/Castrol/Valvoline), the 40wt(Castrol/Mobil1/Rotella/Valvoline) synthetics, or just use the same oil/filter combo that didn't make noise before.
If that is the case, try the 50wts(Mobil1/Castrol/Valvoline), the 40wt(Castrol/Mobil1/Rotella/Valvoline) synthetics, or just use the same oil/filter combo that didn't make noise before.
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