1958 235 chevy

[Zaedock]

I have rebuilt engines of this vintage. There is no need to run a non-detergent motor oil. The lack of a filter will simply require a decrease in the change interval.

If it were my engine, I would run a 10W30. The Rotella 10W30 is a great choice.


Originally Posted By: fraso
The OEM bypass filters for 235s were add-on items...

You could either retrofit your car with a used bypass kit...


I've used toilet paper!

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: Zaedock
If it were my engine, I would run a 10W30. The Rotella 10W30 is a great choice.

That's too simple, sensible, and cost effective, though.

 

[Brons2]

I rebuilt several 235 Chevys in my younger days. We used Valvoline or Castrol 20w50 in pretty much everything including the 235s because that was the thinking at the time back in the late 80s.

Nowadays I would use the lightest oil that I could that met the pressure specs, I believe 30psi for the high pressure 235. The low pressure ones that used the old school non-babbitt bearings was 15psi at idle.

I'd start with Rotella 10w30 changed every 3000 and do a UOA with particle count.

Although honestly, if I owned the beautiful car depicted above, I'd pull the 235 and sell it, and replace it with a 500+ cubic inch big block motor with a Holley or MSD EFI setup. But to each his own, I guess.

 

[TFB1]

Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: Zaedock
If it were my engine, I would run a 10W30. The Rotella 10W30 is a great choice.

That's too simple, sensible, and cost effective, though.

Well this is BITOG...

 

[meep]

I usually don't lurk in the oil section here....

but I had a '57 with the 283, rebuilt it when I was 14 yrs old, before i could drive.

It's a filtered, small block chevy with a very low pressure lube system that taps out around 32psi.

detergent, non-detergent, the block itself does not care. We choose oil viscosity based on tolerances, so the question you need to first ask is to what spec was it rebuilt to? find out that, and you can make an educated choice on oil type.

We ran ours on 10-40 forever. 20-50 when it started to consume. It'd just didn't really care. 20-50 bumped up the pressure 2psi or so (mechanical gauge).

I'd be more concerned with making sure the valves are treated for unleaded gas, and that you run a high enough octane to avoid predetonation.

personally, after scraping out loads of mung and goo from the heads, and anything near the breather tube, I'd use a modern oil. the old stuff was specc'ed back then, but that doesn't mean it was better suited. plenty of hours spent cleaning off/out thick black goo to attest to it.

neat car, neat to work on, good memories. good luck!

 

[lilrobo]

Ever sence i change my oil, i went back with a 30 w from adavance auto,, i have this oil burning smell dont think its coming from tail pipe, , its coming from road tube, ,,, i called my engine builder and he said to use rotella 30 w and to get it out on interstate and let it roll, he said the rings might be seated, ,, i had the engine rebuild in what oct nov and i know i didnt drive it much in winter, , what do you guys say? ?.

Thanks

 

[TFB1]

If it's "puffing" from the road draft tube, that is a indication the rings aren't seated, a good run isn't going to hurt it... I'd do a few WOT runs from stop to 60 MPH while I was at it...

 

[lilrobo]

I am goung to change the oil and run totella and do what you said, , interstate and some 0 to WOT ;;i hope they seat i spent alot of money on this motor lol

Thanks

 

[fraso]

The road draft tube normally has blow-by coming out of it but I wouldn't expect the fumes to smell burnt. Is there any chance that your valve cover gasket is leaking (onto the exhaust manifold) and just needs to be snugged down?

 

[lilrobo]

no leaks that i can see ,,, got me

 

[TFB1]

Originally Posted By: fraso
The road draft tube normally has blow-by coming out of it but I wouldn't expect the fumes to smell burnt. Is there any chance that your valve cover gasket is leaking (onto the exhaust manifold) and just needs to be snugged down?


You can bet your bippy they do...

 

[lilrobo]

hey i got this post from another site about my oil , what say you on this ??? yes or no


Back "in the day" I'm one of the old guys that did the bon ami trick on a couple of engines. We had 52 Chrysler 413s, and I'm the guy maintained them. I ruined EVERY freaking one I put that cr p in!!!!! I couldn't even rebuild them.
Yes, I know, you're supposed to change oil, filters, put top oil, yada yada yada.
don't do it. Trust me on this one lil.
Btw, that 52 is not the model year, it was how many.

 

[SteveSRT8]

Originally Posted By: lilrobo
Ever sence i change my oil, i went back with a 30 w from adavance auto,, i have this oil burning smell dont think its coming from tail pipe, , its coming from road tube, ,,, i called my engine builder and he said to use rotella 30 w and to get it out on interstate and let it roll, he said the rings might be seated, ,, i had the engine rebuild in what oct nov and i know i didnt drive it much in winter, , what do you guys say? ?.

Thanks


Get it hot, get it into a higher gear to load it up and GET ON IT!

needs cylinder pressure to seat those rings, hope you haven't glazed the bores up yet.

 

[lilrobo]

Went to get some rotella 30w and cant find any, , would 10w30 be ok, , or is there a better oil?
Thanks

 

[1999nick]

Straight 20 weight detergent motor oil was the standard fill for American cars until multigrade oils began to appear in the late 1950's. My 1954 Ford made it to 140,000 miles by 1959 using Sinclair 20 weight detergent oil. Engine was still in good shape, using no oil and not smoking when I traded it.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: RF Overlord
I was told (a LONG time ago) that the rule of thumb is that if an engine has a filter, use detergent oil, if not then use non-detergent, and for the exact reasons specified by GreeCguy above.

However, that may be another one of those old wives' tales that has since been debunked. If Mola says use detergent, I would believe him.

I also concur that you should use a straight 30.


I grew up around antique boats, and we had engines that were a lot older than the OP's, some of them original. We ran VWB and GTX 10w-30 in most of them. My grandfather originally did the ND thing for some of the REALLY old stuff, but after I (being like 12) had put 10w-30 in those applications and we saw no issues, he stopped using it altogether.

Our old Ford Y-blocks had remote canister filters on them, which seemed to work well. I would advise the OP look into this option, as others have.

 

[lilrobo]

well i just got back i went interstate i hit 80 by the speedo i say maybe 70 really ,, anyway did great i went to river climb the hill back i stopped and took off i dont know ,, after i got back i took a video of road tube , i could see something like smoke , steam like coming off coffee i will try post it
thanks

 

[Lyman]

Looks normal to me. Might get a little better after some more miles.

 

[TFB1]

Unless it's excessive, the vapor isn't really a big deal...

Above said, it's generally fairly easy to install a PCV system on any engine that will pull them back into the engine to be burned... Just get a PCV valve for similar displacement engine(yes size is important), connect it to a vacuum source and then plumb it into the oil breather cap or the draft tube(would need to cap off the tube if added to it)... I did the same on a '64 289 Ford using components from a '65...

I'm not sure if any of the 235 actually used factory a PCV system, possibly the Calif models in '62, as I believe it was required... I'd probably add a nipple to the road draft tube and use a inline type valve... So the added nipple, a couple pieces of hose, valve and maybe a fitting added to the intake manifold is all that's needed...

 

[lilrobo]

found this http://www.speedprint.com/deves50/pcvinstall.php,, i did read somewhere that it might usiing oil ???