engine restore? seafoam? auto rx?

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does that engine restore stuff actually work? will it improve compression just by adding to oil? is it a good idea to use seafoam in crankcase oils? i have done it before, but i just want to be sure it would cause no engine damage. and auto rx, where do you guys get this stuff from? seafoam in my area is plentiful, but ive never seen auto rx.
 
Im not an exper, and I never used Auto-Rx, but...
If you want to clean up valves and combustion chambers do Seafoam. And if you need to clean up sludge, valve train etc.. do Auto-Rx.
 
Seafoam (and even better, Chemtool B-12) are great solvents that are a bit on the harsh side but really can help keep an engine clean and sludge free when used properly and with relatively short OCI's. AutoRx has to be purchased from the company directly at www.autorx.com I just chemtooled my new to me 01 saab and followed up w/ M1 EP 5W30 and when I removed the filter to add autorx after just 1200 miles, it was full of crud already.
 
College buddy of mine has an 89 4cyl Ford Probe. He bought the car last year with the cylinders running @ about 60psi each. He put in Engine Restore and he now says the cylinders are running @ about 150 psi each, so it must be doing something right? I've never tried Engine Restore personally. Havn't tried Seafoam personally neither.

However, I will say Auto-rx has done good things for my truck. Smoother running, better mileage etc... I don't have numbers to prove this but I can only be honest,,,,,,op
 
www.auto-rx.com

If you type in a URL it will make it a hyperlink, and since you ended that sentence with a period, it included that. Which will cause the images at the top to not load properly.

Anyway, I would not use Restore in an engine that isn't totally BEAT. Restore is like the antithesis of ARX. ARX cleans your engine, whereas Restore fills surface imperfections. Not always such a good idea. As for Seafoam, I like it in the gas tank or sucked through a vacuum line, though it isn't the strongest thing out there for either. But I don't recommend it in your oil.
 
sorry, dunno why I keep putting in periods! Chemtool keeps getting overlooked here! It's good stuff and won't hurt seals. Plus, it'll boil off after a bit anyway.
 
Interesting that this Engine Restore product never gets discussed here at BITOG. It's been sold for a long time. Does it actually do anything? Is is worth buying? What's in it???
 
quote:

Interesting that this Engine Restore product never gets discussed here at BITOG. It's been sold for a long time. Does it actually do anything? Is is worth buying? What's in it???

Huh?

I did a search on "engine restore" and got 43 hits.

What exactly are you trying to do: Clean the engine internals, combustion chambers?

USE ARX to clean the ring packs and sump; use FP to clean the CC's, and stay away from the "restore" products unless you have a beater and you want to delay a re-ring job.
 
Thanks, you're right, I didn't do a search. I just did a search based on your suggestion and there are only a few recent threads that mention Engine Restore, most are older. It hasn't been discussed much recently compared to MMO, LC, ARX etc. which is why I wondered if it did anything and if it was even worth trying. I figured if it was really a useful product that there would be more people mentioning and discussing it.
 
quote:

Interesting that this Engine Restore product never gets discussed here at BITOG. It's been sold for a long time. Does it actually do anything? Is is worth buying? What's in it???

I have used it before... and i'm still not sure if i would recomend it... however... it did temporarily, alleviate my hydrolic adjuster ticking, and I did experience notably smoother starts on cold mornings with it... however... cleaning the enging with arx... has had similarly good results, but without adding lots of metal to the oil to get them...

see... "engine restore" is primarily lead and copper... and i proved that through a UOA later on down the road after having used it. (several OCIs after having used "restore").. all aspects of the UOA were fairly decent, but with this very high lead and copper... Terry agreed, that it was from using restore....

now, the question really is... is it *healthy* for an engine to have "simulated-wear-metal" added to the oil... There is another addative called "Motor Silk" that uses basically the same principle as "restore" but uses boron instead of copper/lead..

I have to say, that when I added restore, originally, i did *notice* a difference... it may very well have been running smoother and stronger as a result of having better compression, having the wear metal in the oil, may very well have improved the cylinder wall lining a bit... however.. it is trying to compensate for other problems in many cases..


many engines, loose compression, as a result of the rings sticking... the ring packs, are a "hot-zone" for oil.. so it is a very likally place to develop sludge deposits quickly in an engine. That sludge, makes it impossible for the rings to expand and contract to the size of the cylinder wall, resulting in poor compression, and blowby... So, rather than add a bunch of metal to the oil, in hopes of filling the void the rings aren't completing... clean the rings, and let them do their job...


I would consider engine restore, a last ditch solution for an engine that is worn heavily... the bolstering effects could keep and old engine going awhile longer, and possibly help pass emissions.
 
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