Wix vs. Wix XP (and Fram Tough Guard)

[ericgcollyer]

First off, on a bit of a side note, I would like to ask a question about Fram Tough Guard filters. My cars have started to age, and I have been doing some research on how to take better care of them. The last time I went to buy oil, there was a bundle deal on PP and a Fram Tough Guard filter. I have not been a huge fan of fram (like most of the forum). I have never heard of Tough Guard before I bought it and threw it in during the last oil change. Has anyone had any experience with these filters? Should I be nervous putting in on my high mileage car? Are they any better than the orange can?

Secondly, has anyone seen/used the new Wix XP filters? Are they significantly better than the traditional wix filter? How are they priced/where can we get one? I'm up for an oil change on my other car and just saw the XP filter, is it worth getting if I use PP or PU?

 

[trx250x92]

The Fram TG is better than the orange can. Supposed to gave good filtration media. Still has the paper end caps.. or whatever the technical name for them is. But I cut one open that was on my civic when I bought it and it seemed of good quality.

 

[KCJeep]

The ToughGuard has become one of my favorite filters but I wish they were a bit less. There is no reason to worry about using one.

That said there are also very good filters available at similar prices by Wix, Purolator and others. Motorcrafts are the bargain steal of the filter world IMO especially if there is an "S" series Motorcraft for your vehicle.

What are you driving?

There is no reason to use the expensive full synthetic filters like the XP unless you are doing extended oil change intervals. The ToughGuard is giving you as good or better filtration now for less. What are your OCI's? If you're doing longer OCI's the full syn filters from Wix, Napa, Puro and Fram could be a viable option for you.

 

[A_Harman]

I used Fram Tough Guard's on my Camaro for 8 years and ~148k miles. Never had a problem. Switched to PurOne's for the past couple of years because the internal construction is better: steel end caps and coil spring.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: A_Harman
I used Fram Tough Guard's on my Camaro for 8 years and ~148k miles. Never had a problem. Switched to PurOne's for the past couple of years because the internal construction is better: steel end caps and coil spring.


I don't recall PureOnes using a coil spring.

 

[A_Harman]

I may be overstating it. The PurOne that I use on my Cummins Dodge does have a coil spring. I'm assuming that the passenger car versions have coil springs, too.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: A_Harman
I may be overstating it. The PurOne that I use on my Cummins Dodge does have a coil spring. I'm assuming that the passenger car versions have coil springs, too.


Probably so that some model of the filter do have a coil spring instead of a leaf spring.

 

[ericgcollyer]

Thanks for the welcome to the forum. I appreciate it! I am trying to extend the OCI on my car. I let my sister borrow my car for a few years while I was in college and didn't really have a need for a car. (It was a 2001 Ford Explorer Sport Trac) When I got it back, I found that 0 maintenance had been done. 20,000 miles had passed on the same oil change

. I immediately put PP in and changed it at 3,000 miles. This was because the oil had gotten so dirty by that time I dint feel like I could leave it in any longer. Now I have about 5000-7500 miles on every oil change (when my car hits about 4,000 miles I simply wait for a good sale on oil). My car currently has about 140,000 miles on it and I am looking to do more regular oil change intervals, but with better quality parts. I want to use PU, but it just isnt readily available. If it is possible, I want to push my OCI to 10,000 miles but want to do so without reducing the life of my car. The oil still looks decent at 7,500 miles but I am going to get a UOA to be sure once I get close to that mileage on this change. Knowing that, would these full syn filters be worth it?

 

[threeputtpar]

For the 4.0 V6, there's probably no better bang-for-the-buck filter than the Motorcraft FL-820S. I think Autozone may be the cheapest place to buy them currently, but it's not often they are offered in an oil/filter combo. If you use a discount code at Advance online, it may be cheaper than Autozone. P20 works for 20% off right now. Heck, you could probably swing by RockAuto and pick them up for no shipping and then they're really cheap.

Some may say that the Motorcraft isn't good for 10k miles like you're looking to do, but if you want to go that long just change the filter half way through for now until you get the damage you sister caused cleaned up. The filter is easily accessable, so it shouldn't be too much of a hassle.

Once clean, the Motorcraft should hold up for 10k.

 

[KCJeep]

For 10k OCI's synthetic filters would not be a waste of money, but it's hard to find a better filter for Fords than Motorcraft, even if you're cleaning out and change it half way through the OCI it's still less than a synthetic filter.

Most Motorcrafts are under $4 at Wally's, or AAP using codes. The best bang for the buck in a synthetic filter IMO is the Fram Ultra, also available at Wally's or AAP.

 

[gotib007]

I would not use the Frams or any other filter with the plastic cores on the GM 3.6l LY7s that use a drop-in cartridge. The cartridge is designed to spin, and the plastic core filters come apart in these engines. It's fine in others. The Fram steel core is a good filter and I have used it with success in the LY7.

 

[BlueOvalFitter]

The TG just makes a more expensive OCOD paper weight than the typical XG OCOD.

Seriously,

to the board. The only FRAM filters I have ever used are air and gas. But I would not hesitate at all to use a FRAM Ultra.

 

[RF Overlord]

Originally Posted By: threeputtpar
For the 4.0 V6, there's probably no better bang-for-the-buck filter than the Motorcraft FL-820S.
FYI, the OP has a 2001 and that was the changeover year from the FL1A to the FL820S.