Spray wax or spray sealant after ONR? -confused

[97tbird]

So, now that I have discovered the wonders of ONR, I want to add a bit of protection (in spray wowo mode) to the finish after ONR...

Main goal is DURABILITY and PROTECTION, and which would achieve these best?

- Some say spray WAX, like Optimum, DG, etc,
- and some say spray SEALANT, like chemical guys V7, Wolfgang Spritz sealant etc.
- and some more say Spray wax AND spray sealant ! (Isn't that overkill?)

So which route should I go?

 

[NateDN10]

What's ONR? Office of Naval Research?

 

[matrass]

for protection a spray sealant is usually more durable than a spray wax. for me it boils down to how often you are washing your ride and how much time to do you have. if you are using something after every ONR wash a spray sealant is overkill. OCW is nice and easy to work with and works well after ONR washes.

 

[aquariuscsm]

Originally Posted By: NateDN10
What's ONR?


2nd

 

[Gotch]

Optimum no rinse...

IMHO it can't take the place of hand/machine applied products for ultimate shine and longevity. That being said, you could probably get away with a detailer spray in between polishes.

 

[HyundaiGuy]

I only use machine/hand applied products, but I use pure wax (no cleaners) over the sealant. It does give a bit of extra shine.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Originally Posted By: NateDN10
What's ONR?


2nd


It is indeed Office of Naval Research, but in this case is Optimum No Rinse for waterless washing.

My question to the OP is what is the normal sealant/wax used? Id chose my product to align to that.

I dont ONR, but as an example, I use Zaino. So after a wash, I use Z-CS to update the sealant, and it works great. I wouldnt put wax over sealant or vice-versa.

 

[SatinSilver]

Originally Posted By: 97tbird
- Some say spray WAX, like Optimum, DG, etc,


Duragloss Aquawax is a spray sealant contrary to the name. Confusing, I know. Just like when the company calls many of its products polishes that are really sealants with some cleaners in them.

 

[JMG]

I use Griots Spray wax when drying with ONR.
Works very well.

 

[Picky1]

Optimum offers a whole line of products (some of which are below, might want to check out all of the Optimum products on (www.autogeek.net). Sounds like you might want to try Optimum Wash and Wax or perhaps Opti-Seal.

 

[RTexasF]

Using a spray wipe on wipe off sealant too often can dull the finish slightly. I would stick with Optimum Spray Wax, it plays well with ONR. It also lasts longer than you would think and the carnauba in it leaves a very nice look.

 

[97tbird]

Thanks for responses -

Opti-seal sounds like a very FINAL-ish product - a TRUE paint sealant?
...i read about it, but it wasn't clear how to maintain it - if I wash the car after i apply it, does it need to be applied again?
They say the paint needs 'prepped' completely before using opti-seal...hmmm...

EDIT - nah, not so serious - it looks like people just use opti-seal after washing with ONR, and then use it every 5-6 months or after a wash...
AND it can be layered for added protection.

SO, this seems like a good, albeit not very cheap 'quick'/easy practice for my needs:
-wash with ONR,
-Opti-seal 1 or 2 layers
-if added slickness/shine needed top it with OCW

thoughts?

 

[97tbird]

AFter reading a bit more...
I wonder if I did the following it would be better to get some cleaning/polishing after ONR wash...before Opti-seal:

1. wash with ONR - cleaning/getting dirt off
2. Klasse AIO - additional cleaning/polishing/prepping for opti-seal...(get spots that wash really didn't get)
3. Opti seal - added protection/seal.

 

[RTexasF]

For Opti Seal to bond correctly the paint must be completely stripped of all products initially. Any correction needed (machine compound/polish) must be done if needed, then the surface washed again to remove all oils & contamination. We're talking a wash with DAWN here in both instances to remove everything. Then dry and use the Opti.

The foam pads they usually send with it are terrible, guaranteed to smear. Use a microfiber covered foam pad (sponge) for application if you go with Opti. I bought it when it first came out and was less than impressed, in fact I gave it away. I have not tried the "new & improved" version.

 

[RTexasF]

Here is one I can recommend without reservation and no special prep work is required. The car must be clean of course but this stuff plays well with everything, no stripping required. It improves in looks and slickness over 24 hours. Four ounces will do an average size vehicle 30-40 times. It is the best I've ever come across bar none. Two layers 24 hours apart leaves an amazing shine and slickness along with durable protection.

http://www.autogeek.net/blackfire-crystal-seal.html

 

[RTexasF]

Originally Posted By: 97tbird
AFter reading a bit more...
I wonder if I did the following it would be better to get some cleaning/polishing after ONR wash...before Opti-seal:

1. wash with ONR - cleaning/getting dirt off
2. Klasse AIO - additional cleaning/polishing/prepping for opti-seal...(get spots that wash really didn't get)
3. Opti seal - added protection/seal.


1. good
2. Unless you already have the Klasse substitute Duragloss #501. Less expensive, excellent paint cleaner.
3. Blackfire Crystal Seal
4. Beer

 

[97tbird]

Thanks RTexasF
I am going to follow your advice,

1. Already have
2. Goinf with Klasse as it is so versatile and can have other uses too

3. BCS - will buy - (I wish Amazon had the 4 oz. size)
4. Already have

 

[RTexasF]

Good enough. For what it's worth be aware that since Klasse All In One was revamped due to VOC regulations it is not quite as effective as the original version. It's still a good product but not up to par with the original. DG#501 is every bit the equal of the original Klasse formula, perhaps a bit better.

 

[97tbird]

I am a bit scared of #501...
Have a few questions:

seems it's made for MARINE uses??
is it too strong/necessary for a car that has almost always been garaged and has paint in near-mint condition?
The color is Alpine White, btw...

And comp'd to Klasse, how easy is it to apply and take off? (I do everything by hand)...

btw white is so discouraging to detail - one can never see any real gloss, except at night

...but i guess I should think of the protection I gain...

I did find THIS thread: exactly what you suggest: DG #501 and BF CS! AND it's on a WHITE car!

(this guy did prep a lot and applied with a machine though...)
http://www.autopiaforums.com/forums/deta...ystal-seal.html

 

[gary031]

Originally Posted By: 97tbird
I am a bit scared of #501...
Have a few questions:

seems it's made for MARINE uses??
is it too strong/necessary for a car that has almost always been garaged and has paint in near-mint condition?
The color is Alpine White, btw...

And comp'd to Klasse, how easy is it to apply and take off? (I do everything by hand)...


#501 is technically "made" for marine use, but it works phenomenal on paint, especially white. I have seen some claims by people that said #501 left the paint a little hazy on dark colored soft clears, but I have never seen this happen first hand. I'm guessing it's improper use. If your concerned with the cleaners in 501 being too strong, you could always buy 105 instead. The last white car I did with 501 I topped it with #111 and it turned out slick and shiny. Just the way I like em.