when to do 1st oil change on 2014 Mazda 6...

[97tbird]

My plan for wife's new Mazda 6 is to stick with 7.5k intervals and use Mazda/idemitsu or Castrol Edge SPT synthetic 0w-20.

However, I know a lot of us do the 1st oil change earlier than recommended and wanted to see what others think?

When should I get the 1st 'break in' OC done? at 1000 miles? 3000 miles?
or even earlier?

Any feedback/advise would be great.

Also, are there any special Mazda specs to be met by the 0w-20 ? I think not, but not sure...
if not, I guess I can use any syn 0/20..(given that the dealer lets me bring in my own oil...haven't checked on that yet)

 

[Quest]

IMHO first oil change interval is less important than, say, getting your engine to "break in" comfortably.

Yeah...yeah yeah I know all those usual cliche about engine shavings during breaking in, yadda, yadda,. but the fact of the matter is, all automobile engines are already sufficiently broken in as soon as they leave the factory, so shavings, etc. aren't too much of a concern.

I'd be more concern about getting the piston skirts, etc. to get along with the driver's program instead...

For that: I'd do 5K OCI for the first oil change instead.

Q.

 

[randomhero439]

3750 miles, half the normal interval is what i would do. Make sure you beat on it a few times to seat the rings properly.

 

[randomhero439]

3750 miles, half the normal interval is what i would do. Make sure you beat on it a few times to seat the rings properly.

Oops double post, delete this one please.

 

[147_Grain]

Originally Posted By: Quest
The fact of the matter is, all automobile engines are already sufficiently broken in as soon as they leave the factory, so shavings, etc. aren't too much of a concern.

Q.


While a MAJOR portion of the engine might be broke in at the factory, the metal shavings in the oil and filter are NOT changed when the vehicle is delivered to the customer. They are still floating around in the engine.

This is why most senior engine technicians recommend an early oil and filter change early on.

Many new engines today can take up to 10,000 miles to FULLY seat the rings as tolerances between engine parts are closer than yesteryear.

Unless the manufacture requires a synthetic oil, I recommend dino based oils for the first 10K to fully allow the engine to break-in properly.

Using this method will generally result in little or no oil consumption over the life of the vehicle.

 

[randomhero439]

Originally Posted By: 147_Grain


Unless the manufacture requires a synthetic oil, I recommend dino based oils for the first 10K to fully allow the engine to break-in properly.




+1

 

[coolbird101]

Im pretty sure synthetic is already in there from the factory..

 

[97tbird]

Thanks for comments so far:
I will verify which oil is in from factory.

IF it is indeed synthetic as coolbird said, I guess I can just go straight to syn oil? or should I STILL use dino for the next OCI?

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: 147_Grain
Unless the manufacture requires a synthetic oil,

It requires 0w-20 oil. There are no mineral 0w-20 oils that I know of.

 

[147_Grain]

STAY with what the manufacture requires to keep your warranty in effect, but change the oil and filter early for increased longevity.

 

[randomhero439]

Fill it up with Mazda w/Moly 0w-20!

 

[GMFan]

I did the first change on my Mazda6 at around 4k miles if I recall. The Mazda FF has lots of moly so I would keep it in for a decent OCI.

 

[147_Grain]

Originally Posted By: randomhero439
Fill it up with Mazda w/Moly 0w-20!


Nothing wrong with 0W-20, but the slipperyness of moly will be counterproductive in enhancing the engine's break-in.

 

[jimbrewer]

Originally Posted By: GMFan
I did the first change on my Mazda6 at around 4k miles if I recall. The Mazda FF has lots of moly so I would keep it in for a decent OCI.


I understand Mazda has some pretty rapid calendar-based change intervals recommended--I could be wrong--be sure and follow those.

There are two diametrically opposite schools of thought: One says change right away to get the iron filings out of there that are ruining your car! The other says that the factory fill has left over moly from the manufacturing process that are helpful in the break-in. That's actually the party line with Honda and they ought to know. Moreover, all engines are made in this same basic way, so if its true for Honda, it should be true for everyone. You aren't going to blow up your car by following the manual after all.

What I did: I waffled. I waited until about 500 miles after I "felt" break in and changed. 4600 city miles in my case.

 

[steve20]

would the folks claiming break it in hard care to comment on the break in sections in almost every owner's manual stating no full throttle accleration, no towing etc during the first 500 or so miles?

 

[97tbird]

Originally Posted By: steve20
would the folks claiming break it in hard care to comment on the break in sections in almost every owner's manual stating no full throttle accleration, no towing etc during the first 500 or so miles?


+1 I'd be interested to hear views on this as well...

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: steve20
would the folks claiming break it in hard care to comment on the break in sections in almost every owner's manual stating no full throttle accleration, no towing etc during the first 500 or so miles?

Here is the text from 2014 Mazda6 owner's manual:
Quote:
No special break-in is necessary, but a few precautions in the first 1,000 km (600 miles) may add to the performance, economy, and life of your Mazda.
- Do not race the engine.
- Do not maintain one constant speed, either slow or fast, for a long period of time.
- Do not drive constantly at full-throttle or high engine rpm for extended periods of time.
- Avoid unnecessary hard stops.
- Avoid full-throttle starts.


So, if I interpret it correctly, it does not say "no full throttle acceleration." It only says not to do it constantly or for extended periods of time.

IMO, it's actually good to give it bursts of full throttle here and there to help the rings seat better.

As far as the "do not race the engine" comment, I guess that's open to interpretation. To me, giving a car an occasional full throttle burst is not racing. Taking a car to the track and beating the snot out of it is racing.

No mention of no towing either.

 

[97tbird]

Quote:
- Do not maintain one constant speed, either slow or fast, for a long period of time..


wonder how they define LONG PERIODS...
so far, as it's my wife's DD, it does a trip about 55-60 mph with cruise on (for majority of time) for a 90 min round trip...but she does have a bit of in town driving, which makes it change the speed/rpms a bit...
Car currently has about 200 miles...

So I might need to play with a bit

 

[Quattro Pete]

I WOULD NOT use cruise control during break-in.

 

[97tbird]

Will let wifey know, Pete -
so far she has only done 3 trips to work...