2010 Audi Q7 TDI 7,700 mi Amsoil Euro 5w30

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First sample on this car since we bought it used last summer.

Q73_2013AmsoilEuro5w30_zps7fcf65fd.jpg


Audi says 10K OCIs, doesn't seem the Amsoil will go that far. I refilled with Castrol Professional 5w30.
 
Starting Tbn is 5.8, so that's actually good TBN retention. .7% solids is soot. 10k is definitely attainable here.

I don't like the Al, but it's one UOA and might be nothing. UOA's are a limited tool.

These low SAP oils are actually really advanced. This is where the latest technology seems to be....
 
On a few of the TDi forums, some people were seeing higher Al until around 50k when the motor fully broke in. How far are you planning to go with the Castrol?
 
I'm thinking I'll take Blackstone's advice and run it about 5,000 miles and sample again. Don't see the since in paying for oil advice and then not taking it.

Interesting that the engine isn't fully broken it yet maybe.
 
I think you can certainly do better. There aren't many UOAs on this engine posted, but this is my latest. Since it does take a long time for these engines to wear in, it's difficult to pick an oil since the numbers are always dropping. Search under my user name for other UOAs, but I plan on sticking with the Lubrication Engineers oil. Fuel additives used were a cocktail of LE 2420 BTU+ and Renewable Lubricants Bio-Power.


910203-PENDLETON-VLW-TOU-11-ENG.jpg
 
Which engine is in your Touareg? I have the 3.0L TDI that calls for a VW 507.0 low saps oil. Your oil definitely isn't low saps. Aren't you afraid you'll toast your DPF?
 
Same engine.

Except for the factory fill and maybe two more fills (UOAs filed here) I've never used a 507.00 oil. While the oils have not been low SAPS, neither have they been particularly high. It's all a matter of math. EPA mandates a non commercial DPF have a lifespan of 150,000 miles before replacement or cleaning. It's a matter of soot being burned to ash and filling the channels in the ceramic. An oil higher in SAPS will theoretically get to this point at some miles less than 150,000. All dependent on how much oil burns past the rings to even make it downstream. There is no such thing as 'toasting' a DPF.

I've always taken the position that I will not sacrifice engine protection for a cleanable downstream emissions device.

All of us with DPF equipped cars will either replace or clean our DPFs if we own the car long enough.
 
What is the procedure for cleaning out a DPF? Is this a DYI project or are special tools needed? I saw a video on YT where someone used a pressure washer. Not sure if a pressure washer in my hands is safe on something as delicate as a DPF. With my luck I'd blow out the expensive ceramic stuff inside.
 
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Here's a place that says they can do ours

http://fsxinc.com/Clean/dpf/dpfTypes.html

I'm not sure about the Q7 since the downstream emissions stuff may be different than the Touareg, but probably not. On the Touareg the DPF is a stand alone canister without an attached cat. Stainless canister with ceramic core and tubes to attach pressure sensors. I'm a firefighter and my plan when the day arrives is to pull the DPF and attach it to one of our Engines with hose clamps and run 100 psi or so of water through it. After watching the youtube vids of cleaning them with an ordinary pressure washer, I figure I'll get most of the ash or at least enough to kick the can down the road.
 
Something is not right here, the metals are a bit high, but if they lower over next few OCI's the that is OK. Could be driver style? What I think is real bad is the insolbles of 0.7 which is very high for short oil change.
I think three possible reasons, might be a cheap or bad oil filter. They paint them orange to warn German car owners! Or if not, then the supermaket oil that has low Calcium and No Magnesium adds inclusive with the oil, is not helping keep the carbon in suspention. No Moly, very low Zinc, less detergents, just like budget Internet oil. But seen similar result of insols out of limits from overheating, or very high idle time.
VW and Audi engines have a reputation for not liking low Zinc adds, forced on oil companies by crazy DPF. Second result in thread seems to show that.
Thankyou for posting both UOA rsults and I agree with what second man said, if the figures don't improve use a better oil with more Zinc. 5,000 mile OCI until mystery solved.
 
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.7% is a lot of soot being pumped through the engine. The aluminum could be pistons, or it could be bearings. Many engines use bi-metal bearings, which use aluminum layered onto a steel backing. No idea if the TDI uses bi-metals, but if so it could be where the aluminum is coming from. I noticed lead is zero, so i'm betting the bearings ARE bi-metals.
 
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Funny that you mention driver style, this is my wife's car; she drives the car quite aggressively around town, much more aggressively than she should, but I've grown tired of trying to influence her driving style.

The filter used was a Mann; I believe this is the Audi OEM filter. The oil was Amsoil European 5w30 low-SAPS oil(no supermarket or cheap internet oil) so you can understand the low numbers for additives.
I have changed to the factory fill Castrol this OCI and will sample again, hopefully with better results.

Originally Posted By: Bodensee
Something is not right here, the metals are a bit high, but if they lower over next few OCI's the that is OK. Could be driver style? What I think is real bad is the insolbles of 0.7 which is very high for short oil change.
I think three possible reasons, might be a cheap or bad oil filter. They paint them orange to warn German car owners! Or if not, then the supermaket oil that has low Calcium and No Magnesium adds inclusive with the oil, is not helping keep the carbon in suspention. No Moly, very low Zinc, less detergents, just like budget Internet oil. But seen similar result of insols out of limits from overheating, or very high idle time.
VW and Audi engines have a reputation for not liking low Zinc adds, forced on oil companies by crazy DPF. Second result in thread seems to show that.
Thankyou for posting both UOA rsults and I agree with what second man said, if the figures don't improve use a better oil with more Zinc. 5,000 mile OCI until mystery solved.
 
OK, you have same problem as me, but cops caught mine last week with a hidden camera (Speeding, mobi in hand and food in other!).

I have seen UOA results from VW TDI forum that show a doubling of wear metals (Al in particular) from driver stlyle. Big problem is cold starts and high revs before warm. Multiple short trips are also bad news if the engine cools each time.
Still don't understand the insolubles figure, but for sure I would use Audi oil filter not Mann for a 2010 car. Where was the Mann filter made?
I think 5K OCI, if figures are not better with Castrol, then you have to think about
silly DPF, because I would not try an HDEO to start, but just an Acea A3/ B4 full synthetic.
 
The only fuel add is the occasional bottle of injector cleaner. I am sort of afraid to treat the fuel too much for fear of endangering the DPF. I suppose if my UOA doesn't improve with the shorter run on factory fill oil, I'll consider running a more robust oil; you have any mid-SAPS recommendations?
 
Originally Posted By: ccdhowell
The only fuel add is the occasional bottle of injector cleaner. I am sort of afraid to treat the fuel too much for fear of endangering the DPF. I suppose if my UOA doesn't improve with the shorter run on factory fill oil, I'll consider running a more robust oil; you have any mid-SAPS recommendations?


I would ask Audi senior chap if they have a recommended fuel additive. You can cause lots of trouble long term if you use the wrong fuel add. Might be fuel guru on Audi forum to ask. VW have approved fuel adds, so I guess Audi do.

My own opinion is that in the US I would use a Mobil oil if out of warranty, in the EU I would use a Castrol one and in Germany a Liqui Moly one. Forget the small players, although some Shell oils are OK. I always use an oil that is listed for exact engine type by one of those three big multi nationals (Unless testing with old engine or some kind of UOA verified oil problem) in their oil finder site, BUT VW and Audi have their own list which is worth checking (Look to see what same engine without DPF used). It's your call what to do about DPF fouling long term, but if figures don't improve, then I would try Mobil turbo diesel oil (Looking for around 1000 ppm Zn), before trying an HDEO like Delvac, as the latter will foul DPF faster.
I would stick to a 5/30 until 100K miles, then think about 5/40 if UOA show any Pb increase or oil consumption increases. OP's present UOA would not be improved by heavier oil, as it is top wear. I would guess engine fully run in, but could be wrong, if you drive like old aunt on long highway trips it can take 100K km to fully run in some engines. If your wife dances on the pedals, then block was run in already.

Are you really sure garage changed oil filter, as bad thought crosses my brain cell, that they wanted to save time and a few bob by just giving it a wipe so it looks clean?? Seen similar poor result from that problem.
 
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Got an opinion about Amsoil new range of oils, but saying it will get me banned!!
Takes lots of R&D effort to make good oil for DPF (C3) turbo diesel and the OP UOA looks like supermaket adds with a slightly better base stock. Cutting Ca detergent to low level and not replacing with Mg is real strange. I think if you cut Zinc for DPF game, then must have a little top quality Moly plus, top quality Boron.

Have you checked AMS VOA, perhaps OP is bottle decanting victim?
 
Originally Posted By: Bodensee
Something is not right here, the metals are a bit high, but if they lower over next few OCI's the that is OK. Could be driver style? What I think is real bad is the insolbles of 0.7 which is very high for short oil change.
I think three possible reasons, might be a cheap or bad oil filter. They paint them orange to warn German car owners! Or if not, then the supermaket oil that has low Calcium and No Magnesium adds inclusive with the oil, is not helping keep the carbon in suspention. No Moly, very low Zinc, less detergents, just like budget Internet oil. But seen similar result of insols out of limits from overheating, or very high idle time.
VW and Audi engines have a reputation for not liking low Zinc adds, forced on oil companies by crazy DPF. Second result in thread seems to show that.
Thankyou for posting both UOA rsults and I agree with what second man said, if the figures don't improve use a better oil with more Zinc. 5,000 mile OCI until mystery solved.


Supermarket oil?
Skyship has returned to grace us with his presence. Welcome back I guess. Hopefully you will have learned from your previous experiences here.
 
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