Ball vs Tapered Bearing in Hub Assembly

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On a particular application, the rear wheel bearing/hub assembly by Timken (for the non-ABS model) uses tapered bearings. The SKF and Beck/Arnley assemblies both use ball bearings. What is the difference, and which is better?

The application in question is a 2002 Altima.

Also, any advice on the best brand would be helpful. OE is not an option for price reasons.
 
Originally Posted By: stephen9666
Do you know what style bearing the OE hub uses?

I do not. Where would I find such info?
 
I think tapered bearing can generally carry heavier load than ball bearing but that's probably not important here. Ball bearings have manufacturing advantages. I think overall quality and not type of bearing is the factor. I think SKF would be a good choice.
 
In theory, for the same material and quality a tapered bearing has larger surface to bear the load.

In practice, it is all about the material and quality of workmanship, and whether you are lucky to get a unit that's also OEM spec or not.
 
Timken and SKF have good reps. usually Timken is a little cheaper than SKF, so I usually go with Timken.
 
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A lot of wheel bearings are roller bearings. But you need some width in the bearing assembly. But they can carry a hefty load.

I would think its odd for a given bearing assembly to have different bearing types depending upon the manufacturer. Timken is what I normally look for if I have a choice.
 
Tapered bearings are better as they are designed to handle both radial (pressure downwards) and thrust loads (pressure from the side) while ball bearings are designed to only handle radial loads. I am guessing that the car will change direction (i.e. turn), so I would go with the tapered bearing.
 
Originally Posted By: sdowney717
The front wheel bearings on FWD use double row ball bearings. Front wheels take a lot of side forces and very little problems develop.


Tapered roller thrust bearings consist of small tapered rollers arranged so that their axes all converge at a point on the axis of the bearing. The length of the roller and the diameter of the wide and the narrow ends and the angle of rollers need to be carefully calculated to provide the correct taper so that each end of the roller rolls smoothly on the bearing face without skidding. These are the type most commonly used in automotive applications (to support the wheels of a motor car for example), where they are used in pairs to accommodate axial thrust in either direction, as well as radial loads. They can support rather larger thrust loads than the ball type due to the larger contact area, but are more expensive to manufacture.

Ball bearings can be used, but as the paragraph mentions above they can support more load, but are more expensive to manufacture.
 
I have run both Timken and SKF sealed bearing and hub units on the front of my Camaro, and liked the SKF bearing better. In track day use, the Timken bearing loosened up and allowed about 1/8" of play at the OD of the tire. I had to replace them every year. The SKF bearing did not allow any play at the tire OD after 2 years of track days, but one did begin to growl, indicating a brinelled race.
 
Ball bearings are pretty terrible at side-loading. For a bearing assembly that takes both weight and side-to-side thrust like a wheel bearing, tapered roller is better with all other things being equal. In places where the thrust load is taken up by a different bearing than the one that carries the weight (for example, some types of solid rear axles) ball bearings make sense.

Either one can work fine, but let's just say its USUALLY easier to meet all the design goals with tapered rollers for an application like this.
 
I worked as a bearing engineer for over 5 years, and there is some mis-information here...

All things being equal, the tapered bearing will have both higher radial and thrust load capability. There will be more rollers, as compared to a typical conrad style ball bearing, and larger contact area for each of those rollers. This results in lower contact stresses and longer bearing life.

If the hub is a pre-set assembly, then it should never loosen up unless there is a manufacturing defect.

The chance of getting a "true brinell" in an automotive application with rubber tires is slim to none. Chances are that the growl was the start of some spalling, or perhaps false brinelling caused from ingress of water and having the rollers rust small lines into the races.

The ball bearings will probably have slightly lower rolling resistance.

While the tapered bearings will more than likely last longer from a fatigue standpoint, the truth is that most automotive wheel bearings fail from seal ingress long before they fail from fatigue. I know for a fact that Timken does some great seal research and testing when selecting the seals for their pre-set assemblies. SKF is a worthy competitor though, and they are both quality products.

If you do lots of sporty driving, or haul heavier than normal loads, I would go with the TImken. If you don't I would inspect both bearings, and choose the one that appears to have the better seal quality.
 
Pretty much covered up above. Tapers make for stiffer assemblies and carry higher loads; ball bearings are cheaper to manufacture.

Every once in a while we see "true brinell" failures during warranty. I can only imagine the car corner suffered a devere curb impact to affect the bearing.
 
Originally Posted By: Kestas
Pretty much covered up above. Tapers make for stiffer assemblies and carry higher loads; ball bearings are cheaper to manufacture.

Every once in a while we see "true brinell" failures during warranty. I can only imagine the car corner suffered a devere curb impact to affect the bearing.


Or got T boned from the side like my mom's Corolla.
 
Originally Posted By: DriveHard
I worked as a bearing engineer for over 5 years, and there is some mis-information here...

If the hub is a pre-set assembly, then it should never loosen up unless there is a manufacturing defect.

The chance of getting a "true brinell" in an automotive application with rubber tires is slim to none. Chances are that the growl was the start of some spalling, or perhaps false brinelling caused from ingress of water and having the rollers rust small lines into the races.

While the tapered bearings will more than likely last longer from a fatigue standpoint, the truth is that most automotive wheel bearings fail from seal ingress long before they fail from fatigue. I know for a fact that Timken does some great seal research and testing when selecting the seals for their pre-set assemblies. SKF is a worthy competitor though, and they are both quality products.

If you do lots of sporty driving, or haul heavier than normal loads, I would go with the TImken. If you don't I would inspect both bearings, and choose the one that appears to have the better seal quality.


Since I have been running the Camaro on race tracks for 11 years, I can assure you that I have a real-world testing machine in rolling contact fatigue. AC Delco and Timken hub assemblies would loosen up in about a year of track days, and I was pretty much resigned to changing them every spring until I tried the SKF's. The major difference that I could see was the housing on the SKF was turned down where the outboard bearing was mounted, and must have allowed for better load sharing between the inner and outer bearings.

I hear what you say about brinelling, but don't expect that manufacturing defects or seal failure could have occurred on all of the bearings I have had on the front of the car. Maybe the extra heat from heavy braking is causing the seals to fail? Regardless of the cause, I will continue to do the wobble test on my front wheels. Perhaps you would like to ride with me when I dive into turn 12 at Road Atlanta at 105 mph in a car with loose wheel bearings?

Rear axle bearings have also been a problem. I could only count on a life of 50k miles on the axles, at which point they would start growling, and I would install a new set of axles, bearings, and seals. I finally got fed up with the GM C-clip axle design, and had Moser build a hybrid rear end. This setup still uses the stock 7.5" ring gear 10-bolt axle housing, but has adapters for Ford 9" outboard bearings. The axles are Moser parts for 9-inch Fords, but have been modified with splines for the GM differential carrier. I only have a couple of track days on this setup, so it will be a few years before I can say whether or not it's better.
 
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Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: stephen9666
Do you know what style bearing the OE hub uses?

I do not. Where would I find such info?

How did you find out what types of bearings each of the other brands had?

Also, what's the price difference between the brands? Haven't you claimed in the past that OE parts can often be had for a similar price as aftermarket?
 
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