residential hydronic baseboard heating and fluids

[1 FMF]

I have an oil fired furnace, 2 story house with baseboard heating.
The norm seems to be that the system is filled with 100% water from the cold water supply,
has the pressure regulator and check valve which drops it to 10-15 psi.
my question is, is there supposed to be any kind of additive in the system to prevent corrosion?
I ask because a few years ago the service guy noticed i had some problems with the system, forget what actually but one or both of the zones was drained, I remember he at least changed the temp gauge on the furnace, then filled and purged both zones and that was it.
i replaced the pressure relief valve earlier today on the furnace, since it was the lowest point i ended up having to drain everything. wondering if i should look into some sort of additive, I hate to ask at a plumbing supply because i know they will say yes with some product in one hand and their other outstretched waiting for my credit card.

 

[Kuato]

My parents' home, built in 1958, has the same setup with all copper piping. Well water used to fill the system, never any additives and never had a leak.

 

[JHZR2]

The key is to NOT have any leaks and NOT drain the system unless it is a mandatory service. Water has oxygen in it, and that will cause oxidation, which degrades parts of the system. However, once the dissolved oxygen is reacted, the water is benign.

I have an 80YO system, and my parents' steam system is at least 10 years older, and they are all original except the furnaces (knock on wood).

 

[Sequoiasoon]

Just like the oil threads there are many variables. Baseboard...cast iron or copper tube/fin? As others said you want add the least amount of makeup water possible, have a good air separator (I prefer spirovent). If having issues you can add Rhomar Hydro Solv to clean everything, flush it and add Rhomar 922 corrosion protection.

Some people need to add glycol to systems for freeze protection especially in colder areas, if piping runs through un-conditioned attics etc and if power loss occurs frequently. Frozen pipes can REALLY ruin your day.

Hours of reading fun and learning at this forum doityourself heating forums

 

[Donald]

There are some additives to balance the PH if needed. And some fill with Cryotek if its subject to freezing.

Its a good idea to operate the T&P for a second or so each year.

 

[HerrStig]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
The key is to NOT have any leaks and NOT drain the system unless it is a mandatory service. Water has oxygen in it, and that will cause oxidation, which degrades parts of the system. However, once the dissolved oxygen is reacted, the water is benign.

I have an 80YO system, and my parents' steam system is at least 10 years older, and they are all original except the furnaces (knock on wood).
+1 There are air/water separation devices which are installed in the high points of the piping to remove air, but they work slowly. A danger with using glycol in hydronic heating systems is a "cross connection" where a pressure differential causes the stuff to flow BACK into the drinking water system."

 

[HerrStig]

Originally Posted By: Sequoiasoon
Just like the oil threads there are many variables. Baseboard...cast iron or copper tube/fin? As others said you want add the least amount of makeup water possible, have a good air separator (I prefer spirovent). If having issues you can add Rhomar Hydro Solv to clean everything, flush it and add Rhomar 922 corrosion protection.

Some people need to add glycol to systems for freeze protection especially in colder areas, if piping runs through un-conditioned attics etc and if power loss occurs frequently. Frozen pipes can REALLY ruin your day.

Hours of reading fun and learning at this forum doityourself heating forums
TACO, the circulator pump company, makes a very high quailty separator.

 

[racin4ds]

I'd suggest the same stuff guys with outdoor water furnaces are using, many of them require an additive to prevent corrosion.