Replacing Balljoints on a Jeep Dana 30

[SwampSurvivor]

The front differential in my Jeep's Dana 30 is shot. I'm planning on pulling one from the pick n pull in April (provided it doesn't have a shot differential).

My plan was to buy the axle and swap into mine without playing around. The steering will be disconnected when I remove MY axle and the wheel bearings (new) / Axle shafts (new) and brakes (new) will swap onto the new axle.

My Jeep has been steering "funny" lately. I thought it was out of alignment so I aligned it. But, the lower ball joints are seized.

Now , I'm not going to replace ball joints on an axle that I will be scrapping ... that's a waste.

I'm going to be replacing the ball joints on the axle that I pull from the junkyard along with repaint and (maybe) a front locker.

Anyone got any tips on how to get ball joints out of a 15+ year old axle? I've replaced ONE ball joint ... but that was on a relatively new car.

 

[Zaedock]

The 'ol ball joint press is the ticket. They are very easy to do, IMO.


Edit: Just want to mention that Jeep changed the hub and caliper mounts a bit throughout the years, so reuse your spindles too to be on the safe side.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

Originally Posted By: Zaedock
The 'ol ball joint press is the ticket. They are very easy to do, IMO.


Edit: Just want to mention that Jeep changed the hub and caliper mounts a bit throughout the years, so reuse your spindles too to be on the safe side.


There's three different brake/rotor/hub bearing combination that showed up on the Cherokees throughout the years.

Very good point, though! Before doing the research, I was going to buy an axle and use the wheel bearings with my brakes. I have a 2000 and the rotors / bearings / calipers are different than any other year, apparently.

I looked into it before the swap (because I didn't want to buy all new brake hardware). From what I've found, any hub bearing will bolt into any XJ Dana 30 ... it's a matter of finding matching rotors and calipers for your bearing. If I reuse my hub bearings on the new axle, my brakes, etc will swap over!

 

[wsar10]

steering funny.....
I would claim that to possibly be a drag link (mine on my XJ was bent and caused steering wander) or maybe sway bar end links.......


This seems like a good time for a JK front diff swap

 

[SwampSurvivor]

I took a torch and a grease needle and managed to free them up (for now) and it steers much better after freeing up the ball joints and aligning it.

I try to avoid parts from inferior vehicles! I wouldn't want to inherit electrical problems and spun bearings from JK parts!

 

[NHGUY]

Make sure the gear ratio is the same!! If its not your front axle may try to pull itself ahead of the frame or want to slow the rear end from going ahead.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

Most of the cherokees I've stumbled across in junkyards are all 3.55/Autos.

I'm hoping to get lucky and find a 4 cyl with 4.10s. In that case, I'm buying both front *and* rear axles. to put in mine.

 

[Zaedock]

JK front axles have thier own issues. Not worth the swap, IMO unless you get a 'con 44 housing and sleeve the tubes / brace the knuckles.

Glad to hear you free'd it up!

 

[jeepman3071]

How is your front diff shot? Grenaded spider gears?

 

[SwampSurvivor]

Originally Posted By: jeepman3071
How is your front diff shot? Grenaded spider gears?


Pinion bearing is bad and I've been driving on it for a year (I thought it was the rear drive shaft).

Labor to replace the pinion bearing is quite intensive (running around $250). Depending on how much damage the bad pinion bearing has done, I might have to replace the pinion and the carrier. AT that point , I'd be looking at nearly $500 ... just to end up with a stock geared low pinion Dana 30 axle.

If I can pull a good one from a junkyard for $80, put $120 into ball joints I'll have a better axle than mine was. If there is a diff problem with that, it's still a better axle and may be worth the upgrade.

 

[mattd]

I would probably do inner axle seals while its out as well. Just get a good ball joint press set with adapters and assorted sockets/hammer.

 

[jeepman3071]

Originally Posted By: Miller88
Originally Posted By: jeepman3071
How is your front diff shot? Grenaded spider gears?


Pinion bearing is bad and I've been driving on it for a year (I thought it was the rear drive shaft).

Labor to replace the pinion bearing is quite intensive (running around $250). Depending on how much damage the bad pinion bearing has done, I might have to replace the pinion and the carrier. AT that point , I'd be looking at nearly $500 ... just to end up with a stock geared low pinion Dana 30 axle.

If I can pull a good one from a junkyard for $80, put $120 into ball joints I'll have a better axle than mine was. If there is a diff problem with that, it's still a better axle and may be worth the upgrade.



Sounds like a plan! I wish we had U-pull junkyards here. We have "recycling yards" instead where everything is pulled for you. A decent Ford 8.8 axle around here goes for $400.

 

[wsar10]

Originally Posted By: mattd
I would probably do inner axle seals while its out as well. Just get a good ball joint press set with adapters and assorted sockets/hammer.


X2 on the seals, and refill it with "Severe gear"

 

[SwampSurvivor]

I'll have to look into axle seal replacement.


Originally Posted By: jeepman3071
Originally Posted By: Miller88
Originally Posted By: jeepman3071
How is your front diff shot? Grenaded spider gears?


Pinion bearing is bad and I've been driving on it for a year (I thought it was the rear drive shaft).

Labor to replace the pinion bearing is quite intensive (running around $250). Depending on how much damage the bad pinion bearing has done, I might have to replace the pinion and the carrier. AT that point , I'd be looking at nearly $500 ... just to end up with a stock geared low pinion Dana 30 axle.

If I can pull a good one from a junkyard for $80, put $120 into ball joints I'll have a better axle than mine was. If there is a diff problem with that, it's still a better axle and may be worth the upgrade.



Sounds like a plan! I wish we had U-pull junkyards here. We have "recycling yards" instead where everything is pulled for you. A decent Ford 8.8 axle around here goes for $400.


Any ford 8.8 ... or dana 60 ... or whatever you can yank goes for $60 at the local yard. Front axles are a bit more for some reason.

 

[rslifkin]

The ball joint press you can rent from Autozone works for the D30 balljoints, although it doesn't have an adapter that fits perfectly, so it's a little bit of a PITA. I did mine last summer, and they weren't too bad to get out. Just cranked the press down a bit and they started to move with a nice pop.

Jeepman - There's a place along Route 8 (I think it was Daddio's) that wasn't too expensive when I got a transfer case and rear hatch for my Jeep. It's not a u-pull, but they'll take you into the yard and let you pick out what you want (and which vehicle it's from) and then they'll pull it for you, unless they already have a bunch pulled and sitting on the shelves. IIRC, they wanted $120 for the t-case (most u-pulls up here in Rochester want $75 - 100 for one, the difference is well worth not having to pull it myself laying in the mud), every other similar place in CT wanted $300+ for one.


Originally Posted By: Miller88
Most of the cherokees I've stumbled across in junkyards are all 3.55/Autos.

I'm hoping to get lucky and find a 4 cyl with 4.10s. In that case, I'm buying both front *and* rear axles. to put in mine.


If you're really lucky, you'll find a rear axle from an early one with the optional D44.

 

[wsar10]

87-89 with tow package... non c-clip 44.


My current XJ has the Chrysler Corporate which is also a great choice.

 

[Zaedock]

Originally Posted By: Miller88
Any ford 8.8 ... or dana 60 ... or whatever you can yank goes for $60 at the local yard. Front axles are a bit more for some reason.


Jeebus. It might be worth taking the trailer down and buying up some 60's. Front's go for about $800 - $1000 up here.

 

[mattd]

axles seals arent bad. Remove axles, and differential carrier. Make sure you keep shims and bearing caps in order. Remove with a pry bar. Install with some long extensions, hammer, and bearing race installer (flipped around).