1950 Ford flathead v8
- Thread starter Mendal
- Start date
Depends on the condiion of the engine and the ambient temps you're likely to encounter when it's cold. Here're some opinions by people who seem to be around flatheads some:
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/oil-flathead-207427.html
In any event, I don't think you're stupid.
Kevin
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/oil-flathead-207427.html
In any event, I don't think you're stupid.
Kevin
I think you did fine.
If that were my engine I wouldn't use a straight grade, especially not a non-detergent.
my .02
If that were my engine I wouldn't use a straight grade, especially not a non-detergent.
my .02
My dad has a 1940 making stock 85 hp. He runs 40 weight detergent oil in it. I think he should be running a 15w40 but what do I know.
Everyone thinks these motors need something thick and/or "a really tough monograde" because they "run hot."
You have to figure many rebuilds and restores of these motors happened in the 1970s when multigrade oil was fragile and everyone was freaking out about unleaded gas. So there are a lot of old myths.
Everyone thinks these motors need something thick and/or "a really tough monograde" because they "run hot."
You have to figure many rebuilds and restores of these motors happened in the 1970s when multigrade oil was fragile and everyone was freaking out about unleaded gas. So there are a lot of old myths.
Detergent multi grade is what you should use , they didn't have it available back in the day . Knew a fellow who had a model A and we got talkinging oil . He was using mono grade non det. and I told him...why use that ? He did some asking around to other model A owners and he switched to a 15W40 and said it worked great .
Now if that engine has been on non det. for a time you may want to go with a couple shorter OCI's (you likely don't put many miles on it ) just to flush out any goo the det. oil may loosen up . I'm assuming you don't have a filter on it ?
Now if that engine has been on non det. for a time you may want to go with a couple shorter OCI's (you likely don't put many miles on it ) just to flush out any goo the det. oil may loosen up . I'm assuming you don't have a filter on it ?
I currently have two flatheads ('48 &n'52) and depending on what you're doing with them will determine on your oil choice.
Parade idling, 20w-50, general use, 15w-40 will be just fine.
Don't let the oil pressure at idle scare you as on their best they will only carry a few psi, as my dad always said; "don't worry they have a lot of flow".
Enjoy
Parade idling, 20w-50, general use, 15w-40 will be just fine.
Don't let the oil pressure at idle scare you as on their best they will only carry a few psi, as my dad always said; "don't worry they have a lot of flow".
Enjoy
You're fine with the Supertech. Spend some time on here and you'll get as much oil info as you can stand and will help you fine tune your oil arsenal.
What the history on this engine?..previous OCI ...usage ,etc.
What the history on this engine?..previous OCI ...usage ,etc.
Originally Posted By: neilLB7
Was the non-detergent usage to keep sludge and gunk stuck to whatever it was stuck to...to keep it from flowing around in suspension since the filtration was poor or not even present?
It's what they had back then. And if you started using detergent oil, sludge and gunk could dislodge and cause real problems.
Was the non-detergent usage to keep sludge and gunk stuck to whatever it was stuck to...to keep it from flowing around in suspension since the filtration was poor or not even present?
It's what they had back then. And if you started using detergent oil, sludge and gunk could dislodge and cause real problems.
Many early cars didn't have an oil filter and most of the ones that did had a "partial-flow" system. Non-detergent oils were used to trap the contaminants in the sludge at the bottom of the pan to keep them from flowing through the engine. These same cars also called for removal and cleaning of the oil pan every 10k or so to remove the sludge. I've done many such jobs. if detergent oil is used, it can possibly loosen up all the pre-existing sludge and send it through the engine.
What i did with my last similar car was to substitute one quart of detergent oil for a quart of non-detergent at each change until it was on all detergent oils. The first 2 changes actually looked like pulsating globs coming out of the pan. This lessened dramatically on the 3rd and oil from this car now looks good and fluid when I change it.
What i did with my last similar car was to substitute one quart of detergent oil for a quart of non-detergent at each change until it was on all detergent oils. The first 2 changes actually looked like pulsating globs coming out of the pan. This lessened dramatically on the 3rd and oil from this car now looks good and fluid when I change it.
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- Nov 20, 2020
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Very good choice it is high pressure and temperature oil. I also removed draft tube put in pcv valve keeps crankcase dry will get rid of smell from engine, works great.
AutoMechanic
Site Donor 2024
10W-40 or 20W-50 should do or even SAE30,40, or 50 back then they pretty much threw whatever barrel oil they had in it and it’s oil ports are big so I am sure nothing would hurt it. Me personally would get the Valvoline 20W-50 racing oil with high zinc like I use in my beetle for that engine I think it would do great.
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