Sorry Dex Cool haters

[LeakySeals]

I was considering using the spare 2 gallons of Toyota Red LLC concentrate for the Camry. But there is a ton of info on this site regarding PGL, so I went with it after comparing the MSDS. The only difference I can see between the 2 is the color and bittering agent.

http://www.worldpac.com/tagged/Antifreeze-Coolant_002721LLAC.pdf
http://images.peakauto.com/auto_global_lifetime_msds.pdf
http://images.peakauto.com/global_lifetime_specs.pdf

 

[yonyon]

Originally Posted By: LeakySeals

I switched the PGL BECAUSE of the dex sludge problems. And I'm STILL experiencing problems with dex sludge. The sludge was there BEFORE PGL or RMI-25 when it was ALL DEXCOOL. Why i changed at all. would stay with factory spec if all was fine. but it wasn't, I had to do something. The pictures are remaining dexcool sludge. There is no missing part of the story. I made a change to fix a problem. Hope that helps clear the confusion.


Please forgive my jumping to conclusions as I just ran across this and am too lazy to scroll back, but are you having a problem with cooling system slime in the Grand Prix? If so, please consider that you might be dealing with W-slime and not Dexsludge.

Those prolific W-body GMs with the 3800 pretty much all also came a defective radiator. The ATF cooler has a very pretty weld that looks like something to be proud of if it were made by a man instead of a robot. That weld is all kinds of thin and tends to erode causing a leak. I estimate that 4 out of 5 of these 3800 powered Ws I see have a leaking trans cooler.

I don't care to guess about whether or not a different coolant chemistry would have allowed the flawed weld to hold up longer than the Dex, but in the end, once the cooler is leaking you aren't going to fix it just by replacing your coolant.

 

[mechanicx]

Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
I was considering using the spare 2 gallons of Toyota Red LLC concentrate for the Camry. But there is a ton of info on this site regarding PGL, so I went with it after comparing the MSDS. The only difference I can see between the 2 is the color and bittering agent.

http://www.worldpac.com/tagged/Antifreeze-Coolant_002721LLAC.pdf
http://images.peakauto.com/auto_global_lifetime_msds.pdf
http://images.peakauto.com/global_lifetime_specs.pdf


Toyota red LLC contains inorganic-type inhibitors such as phosphates,nitrates etc so is more like a HOAT coolant which PGL does not. I think the LLC would work fine but it's an expensive coolant that is not considered an extended life. PGL does have the "proprietary inorganic" secret ingedient but that could be pretty meaningless and just the sodium hydroxide buffer. It's very doubtful that PGL is something like Zerex AVF which has the phosphates.

I still say if the system is leak free and and the radiator cap works properly and the system is full of Dexcool like Havoline it would not get much if any rust particles floating out the top. What minor particles if any are mostly harmless. If you opened up the cooling system, it most likely is clean and corrosion free.

If it was my car I'd either leave well enough alone, or fill it with Havoline.

I'd get several gallons of distilled water. Ideally, pressure test the cooling system and radiator cap. Take out the thermostat and direct the top hose off the radiator, engine running pour in the distilled water to flush through. Close the system up (maybe temporarily reinstall the thermostat but probably wouldn't bother) and maybe run a bottle or two of radiator cleaner. Flush it out again. Drain and refill with 1/2 system capacity of Havoline or maybe Zerex Dexcool.

Or if you really don't want to give Havoline Dexcool and honest try, do the above change over but with Green or one of the Japanese coolants.

But if

 

[LeakySeals]

Originally Posted By: yonyon
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals

I switched the PGL BECAUSE of the dex sludge problems. And I'm STILL experiencing problems with dex sludge. The sludge was there BEFORE PGL or RMI-25 when it was ALL DEXCOOL. Why i changed at all. would stay with factory spec if all was fine. but it wasn't, I had to do something. The pictures are remaining dexcool sludge. There is no missing part of the story. I made a change to fix a problem. Hope that helps clear the confusion.


Please forgive my jumping to conclusions as I just ran across this and am too lazy to scroll back, but are you having a problem with cooling system slime in the Grand Prix? If so, please consider that you might be dealing with W-slime and not Dexsludge.

Those prolific W-body GMs with the 3800 pretty much all also came a defective radiator. The ATF cooler has a very pretty weld that looks like something to be proud of if it were made by a man instead of a robot. That weld is all kinds of thin and tends to erode causing a leak. I estimate that 4 out of 5 of these 3800 powered Ws I see have a leaking trans cooler.

I don't care to guess about whether or not a different coolant chemistry would have allowed the flawed weld to hold up longer than the Dex, but in the end, once the cooler is leaking you aren't going to fix it just by replacing your coolant.

What would be some visible symptoms? Would I be experiencing a problem with the tranny due to cross contamination or a loss of transmission fluid? would the transmission fluid be noticeably discolored? Empty or overfilled? I just looked, don't see anything unusual. This is my first Dex VI car so I'm not 100% on what Dex VI fluid should look like. Its not red, more of an amber. Very clear, hard to see on the stick its so clear. Level looks slightly under because its cold. Shifts fine, a little tight getting in and out of gear in the morning (Compared to the Camry). Clunks a little putting it in reverse or drive. I don't consider that unusual, just the way the GM transmission is I assume.

 

[yonyon]

Originally Posted By: LeakySeals

What would be some visible symptoms? Would I be experiencing a problem with the tranny due to cross contamination or a loss of transmission fluid?


Really, all you'd see is slimy goo at the top of the radiator and in the coolant bottle. That and maybe a soft and swolen upper radiator hose. It tends to be a very slow one-way leak of ATF into the coolant, but it does not leak coolant back into the ATF.