Spark plug torque for Chevy 454

[rationull]

I found a reference online (http://boxwrench.net/specs/chevy_bb.htm) that says 20 ft*lbs with "no lube or sealer" when installing spark plugs in the big block. The specific engine I've got is a Vortec 7400, with cast iron heads. 20 ft*lbs sounds reasonable to me, but no anti-sieze sounds crazy. I'm inclined to use my copper anti-sieze and install at 18-20 ft*lbs, but my experience is only with aluminum heads.

Is installing them bare really a good idea?

 

[Chris142]

No need for antiseze with cast iron heads. Put em in dry,when they seat give them a quick snug and your done.

 

[Donnie79]

See if you can find any info on a GM website, look it up in Chilton's manual or talk to a Chevy dealership service center for specs.

 

[ls1mike]

German Torque...
Goodandtight...

When I had my 454 with cast iron heads, I used antiseze on them, and got them snug. Changed the plugs three times in 180,000 miles. Never had a problem and all I really did was tow with that truck.

 

[mechanicx]

+1 You don't need anti-sieze or a torque wrench, just snug tight which is about 1/16 of turn from finger tight with taper seat plugs.

 

[Falken]

I seat with one finger on a 6" 3/8 drive ratchet, then I visually aim for the torque angle suggested on the box with 2 fingers.

There is no way you can harm a cast iron head or a plug forcing a ratchet handle with your index and middle finger.

 

[Cold_Canuk]

Originally Posted By: Falken
I seat with one finger on a 6" 3/8 drive ratchet, then I visually aim for the torque angle suggested on the box with 2 fingers.

There is no way you can harm a cast iron head or a plug forcing a ratchet handle with your index and middle finger.


I like this method! I'm always very careful when threading or tightening down spark plugs in aluminum. I'm going to go with the two finger method next time on the end of my 3/8 ratchet.

 

[Clevy]

Spark plugs are nickel plated hence they are already treated with anti seize. No need to do it twice.

 

[rationull]

I do have a Chilton book but it's worthless for stuff like this.

Originally Posted By: Falken
I seat with one finger on a 6" 3/8 drive ratchet, then I visually aim for the torque angle suggested on the box with 2 fingers.

There is no way you can harm a cast iron head or a plug forcing a ratchet handle with your index and middle finger.


That's a great idea.

I won't worry about the anti-seize either I guess.

Thanks for the info, cast iron heads seem like a lot less to worry about

 

[user52165]

Originally Posted By: Clevy
Spark plugs are nickel plated hence they are already treated with anti seize. No need to do it twice.


Broad generalizations like this should be avoided. Not all spark plugs have AS. Some do - and sometimes noted by an "S" at the end. But there are too many variables and exceptions. Best to check.

BTW - use VERY LITTLE AS if you use it. Reason many makers advise against or now preinstall is because too many users use too much.

 

[wtd]

I have a vortec 7.4L in one of my trucks and I don't use anti-seize on the threads. I tighten them down snug and then turn a little more. I have always read that if you do use anti-seize and use a torque wrench to get the correct torque, that the anti-seize will affect the torque readings.

Wayne

 

[Silverado12]

I would always tighten about 1/8 turn or so (not exactly sure, but you can get a feel for it). The plugs with a crush washer, tighten 1/2 turn.