Oil for an old MGA

[MI_Roger]

I may be purchasing a partially restored MGA and am not confident of what type of engine oil to use. The MG forums seem to not offer too much guidance either. From what I have gleaned from those forums a non-synthetic oil with a healty dose of ZDDP and slightly higher viscosity than what current auto engines require would be best.

I am leaning towards Delvac 1300 in 15W/40 weight. Any reason this would be a bad choice?

 

[skyship]

In my opinion,
You will find the engine tough to start in winter, try looking for a 5/40 HDEO that is rated for petrol engines (Most are). Delvac 5/40 or Rimula 10/40 are possible examples, but check to see if they have 1200 ppm plus of Zinc. Also e mail Castrol in the UK as they might have a better classic car oil that other MGA users prefer.
I'm surprised the MG forum does not have a favourite oil!

 

[Astro14]

Delvac would be a great choice...but if you plan to drive it in winter...and the garage is unheated, then the 5w40 HDEO would be a better choice. Shell Rotella T6 in 5w40 is relatively cheap and would be about perfect. I prefer the HDEO in antique cars, partly for the zinc, as you stated, but also to handle fuel dilution and carbon from the inefficient combustion and to help keep an older engine clean...

 

[EddieCairns]

In the UK Castrol would advise you to use their classic XL 20W/50 dino oil as it has the age specific additive package.

I would agree with the other posters and go for a xW/40 grade synthetic engine oil.

eddie

 

[HyundaiGuy]

I ran my restored MGB on Castrol 20W50 when I had it with no issues. It was my daily driver for 5 years.

 

[skyship]

Originally Posted By: HyundaiGuy
I ran my restored MGB on Castrol 20W50 when I had it with no issues. It was my daily driver for 5 years.


That's a real good oil in summer, BUT the OP is in Michigan, so the question is does he plan to drive in anything near to freezing, because that would mean using a lighter oil. The modern batteries are better, but the original starter motor would have real hard time with a 20/50 when it gets cold. Not a problem in Florida.

 

[wings&wheels]

Coupe or convertible? Twin cam? The MGA is pretty, the coupe is more so.

I'll assume you will not be driving it in the cold salt season, if so then I'd recommend either M1 15w-50 or their M1 motorcycle 10w-40 or 20w-50 based on personal experience. I've been running them in my various Brit cars for 20+ years. All have more than adequate ZDDP levels for the MGA. M1 15w-50 is a relatively thin 50w and is an ideal choice w/ decent cool weather capabilities.

I would not be afraid of synthetics unless you know he engine was neglected and may be excessively varnished or sludged in which case I'd still go syn and do a few short OCI's. The only downside I've experienced is some increased leaks but I'll take that trade for upsides of a good synthetic.

Here is my TR6's valve cover & valve train after ~10 years of M1:

 

[Russell]

Not sure it is helpful in your case, but my old bmw seems to like heavier oils, conventional or synthetic. Runs quieter with no apparent loss in enconomy.

I currently use, in the winter here in Ky, Pennzoil 10w40 High mileage. I have run 20w50 oils in summer with what seems to be positive results. I have no oil burning/loss at 4,500 mile oil changes.

Just thought I would share my experiences.

 

[Bandito440]

Either Mobil 1 15w-50 or Rotella T6. Both are higher in zinc and reasonably priced in jugs at Wal-Mart.

 

[HerrStig]

Originally Posted By: Bandito440
Either Mobil 1 15w-50 or Rotella T6. Both are higher in zinc and reasonably priced in jugs at Wal-Mart.
+1

 

[Doug Hillary]

Hi,
MI_Roger - Great cars. If the engine has been restored a 5W-40 synthetic HDEO such as Delvac 1 would be ok. If it hasn't been rerstored then Delvac 1300 is a goood choice by you

Does it have an oil cooler? If so it is probably not thermostatically controlled and the engine lubricant typically runs cool

When "new" we ran these on 20w-20 Castrolite or 20w-30 Castrol XL. For racing we used Castrol's XXL 30-40

I used Delvbac 1 5W-40 in my MGB after an engine rebuild - it was an excellent choice. These "B" series engines are very robust

 

[Jim Allen]

I had a '61 MGA 1600 but that was 40-some years ago, so my (uneducated) choice back then, 20W50 Castrol, isn't necessarily relevant, The question that hasn't been asked is;

"What was the factory recommended viscosity?"

While multigrades were in their infancy then, the engineer's base viscosity recommendation could still be a useful reference. The only thing I found online was a reproduction of an MGA owner's handbook MGA that states:

Above 32F= SAE30
32F-10F= SAE20W
Below 0F- SAE10W
or SAE 10W30 Multigrade for all temps

So, it would seem that a 30 grade was the base viscosity for an MGA used in the English/European climate and that's a good clue.

With what I know today, and with an engine in good condition in a moderate climate (not often at or near 100F), I would use/recommend a high zinc 10W30, which would translate to an easily obtained HDEO 10W30 like Shell Rotella T or Rotella T5 semi-syn. An SL rated PCMO would probably be fine as well or a PCMO with a bottle of a zinc additive.

The normal warm oil pressure is listed as 30-80 psi for the 1600 and 15-50 psi for the 1500. If I got those warm pressures with 10W30, I'd call it done. If low, I'd bump up to a 5W40 or 15W40. If I ran it often in hot weather, I might run the heavier oil 40 grade oil. Overall, a 15W40 would be an OK choice, but I generally lean toward lighter oils in moderate climates... especially if the OE manuals confirm the main grade.

Oil that is too heavy can actually hurt these engines. I had a Midget at about the same time I had the MGA and for a time I used straight grade SAE 50 in both. One snowy morning with the A, I couldn't get the engine to turn over and ended up having to put a lit Hibachi under the oil pan to warm the engine enough so it would start. In similar circumstances, the Midget turned over and started but shortly after firing, I heard a "snap." Didn't think too much of that until I noticed the oil pressure was at zero. Turns out the oil pump drive had sheared off while the pump was trying to move the honey-like 50 grade. No other harm done, but I did have to pull the engine and replace the oil pump. That's when I learned about 20W50. Obviously, this is an extreme case but it just goes to show the pitfalls of going too heavy for the climate.

 

[Doug Hillary]

Hi,
Jim you have it right.

The oil pump on these engines was an eccentric rotor type (Holbourne) that was intolerant of high viscosity lubricants. Likewise the A and B Series engines were difficult to keep oil tight and lived their lives leaking oil from almost anywhere, but especially from the timing cover and other strategic seals!

The 20w-50 lubricant was developed especially by Duckhams (later followed by Castrol) for the Ä"series powerd Mini for this reason. The integrated engine/gearbox rapidly permanently sheared the lubricant!

After refining the first CKD export Mini in 1959 my next Engineering task was to refine the first export version of the MG Midget (really a Sprite). I didn't like the 1/4 elliptical rear springs' handling characteristics but loved driving the little cars!

 

[bigjl]

I must admit I would be thinking along the lines on a 20w50 or 10w40.

But I would probably contact one of the MG specialists in the UK or even one of the large oil companies such as Castrol to see what they advise.

I wouldn't use a 5w40 myself or anything thinner than a 10w-- oil.

Not saying it will cause any harm but this engine was never designed for 5w40.

Just my opinion.

I would contact a specialist in the UK that really knows head engines, they might recommend 5w40 after all.

Sadly I don't think I will ever be lucky enough to own an MGA. Maybe an MGB as they are more accessible financially.

My student car for 2 yrs was a '66 Austin A40 mk2 Farina, fitted with the 1108cc (from memory) engine, much better than the one with the under 1000cc engine.

I never did much work on the car but I seem to remember a Duckams can being given to me by the mechanic that used to service it.

I don't know what viscosity it was but can't have been too bad for it as the car is still being used to this day by the bloke I sold it to in '91.

A really stupid decision I should have kept it.

 

[EddieCairns]

Originally Posted By: Doug Hillary
Hi,
Jim you have it right.

The 20w-50 lubricant was developed especially by Duckhams (later followed by Castrol) for the Ä"series powered Mini for this reason. The integrated engine/gearbox rapidly permanently sheared the lubricant!

A


That's the problem in the 1960 and 1970's an oil that was developed for the transvere engine oil in gearbox was used when a lighter oil could be used in the non gearbox in the sump designs.

Agreed that they were not that oil tight.

In the states due to the availability of 10w/30 in the seventies BLMC were more than happy to recommend that and there was a time they were telling dealers to use lighter oil due to bad bearing wear.

On the MG Midget BBS there is a guy there who uses Mobil 1 0W/40 with great results.

Most specialist in the UK including the MGOC store will tell you to use 20W/50 but it is not great in the winter for cold starting.

As i posted before Castrol will tell you to use their 20W/50 for Classic cars as it has the older detergent package in it not a modern one.

eddie

 

[Doug Hillary]

Hi,
Eddie - Yes M1 0W-40 would be a good choice in a refurbished A or B Series engine. We used 10W-30 in A & B series engines in Denmark in the 1960s too (not in Minis) with great results

Minimising the viscous drag on the oil pump when cold is a great help with these engine families

Sadly myths still abound about modern lubricants in old engines.

Like with motor bikes. A world renowned Norton (and others)expert uses 10W-30 in non roller engines, and R30 or R40 in the others. Others think he is foolish but has no failures.

The Goodwood Revival brings the real older vehicle experts to the fore!!

 

[fdcg27]

I'm going to guess that you don't intend to subject this car to Michigan winters, so a fairly thick oil would be okay.
A forty should be sufficient.
When I used my MGB as a daily driver, it got 10W-40 along with every other car we had at the time.
This was in the 'eighties.
The B series engine has a reputation for robust durability and was pretty smooth at typical revs. Redline was not a happy place for this engine, though.
Mine never did have any real oil leaks.

 

[MI_Roger]

Correct. If I go forward with such a purchase it will be for summertime fun drives only. No wintertime drives in Michigan, with heated inside storage for the cold snowy months. I may opt for a MGB for the same reason bigjl identified - significantly lower cost of purchase.

The one thing still in favor of the MGA purchase is their rapid recent price escalation. If the price of these cars follows the trend of the big Healeys, then today's seemingly expensive purchase will be tomrrow's fantatic bargain.

 

[fdcg27]

You can buy a good MGB for a lot less money than you'd pay for a good MGA.
I would not buy an A betting on future price appreciation.
I'd buy it for the look and the driving entertainment, as with any other collectible special interest car.
The MGB is also a fairly modern design, for 1964, and the car was built new as late as 1980, so there were a number of years of production with plenty of survivors.
Parts are readily available for the B, although most mechanical parts are also readily available for the A.
Either way, I'm sure you'd enjoy having an MG.
These are simple cars that are easy and inexpensive to keep running and driving well.

 

[FNQ]

Originally Posted By: fdcg27

Either way, I'm sure you'd enjoy having an MG.
.


+1