First post here fellows...I just dumped in 8 qts of 0w-30 RL oil in my truck. Will not be driving this vehicle more than 6 to 7 thousand miles in the next two years. How long time wise can you leave a group 5 synthetic or for that matter any oil in the crankcase of a vehicle?
$100 of Red Line oil in my Toyota Tundra
- Thread starter JLDJ
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2-3 years is no problem, could probably even go longer. Just make sure you are taking it out for some good 20-30 minute drives once in a while so it gets fully warmed up.
As mentioned above, the biggest catch is actually driving the truck. 2-3 years of <10 mile trips will not do well.
That seems expensive. Eight quarts of Shell Rotella T6 is about $43 at Walmart and its damm good oil.
Wasted your $$$
Originally Posted By: Donald
That seems expensive. Eight quarts of Shell Rotella T6 is about $43 at Walmart and its damm good oil.
I'd use T6 in a heart beat but my Tundra takes 8 qts of 5w20 so I'd be out of grade. Not sure what year the OP has.
That seems expensive. Eight quarts of Shell Rotella T6 is about $43 at Walmart and its damm good oil.
I'd use T6 in a heart beat but my Tundra takes 8 qts of 5w20 so I'd be out of grade. Not sure what year the OP has.
Red Line is a premium product so expect to pay more for it but in the long run the price is about the same. If you can run the engine until the oil is up to temperature you'll reduce the acid that reduces the oil life. If you change out the oil 'when it's done' you'll also get more for your money but the analysis to find that out will also cost.
So the initial startup cost is high but once you know the life-expectancy you'll be able to reap the rewards.
So the initial startup cost is high but once you know the life-expectancy you'll be able to reap the rewards.
Originally Posted By: nitehawk55
Wasted your $$$
That's your opinion, but I've always had great luck with Red Line products especially in my turbo hayabusa, and ZR1...Anal probably, but I don't mind paying a little more for something I feel is a little bettor product. Btw tundra is an 07 crewmax 5.7 driven 20-30 mile trips...On a different note why do some say RL is not so much of a high milage oil?
Wasted your $$$
That's your opinion, but I've always had great luck with Red Line products especially in my turbo hayabusa, and ZR1...Anal probably, but I don't mind paying a little more for something I feel is a little bettor product. Btw tundra is an 07 crewmax 5.7 driven 20-30 mile trips...On a different note why do some say RL is not so much of a high milage oil?
The reason I say you wasted your $$$ is it sitting a long time , you should have just gone with some PP or the like at a fraction of the cost . Had you been putting steady use on it then that's your choice .
Don't get caught up too much with the "feel good" thing....it's usually costly .
Don't get caught up too much with the "feel good" thing....it's usually costly .
Originally Posted By: JLDJ
On a different note why do some say RL is not so much of a high milage oil?
Because due to the nature of the formula it has a higher TAN than normal so this leads to a lower TBN than we're used to seeing. Also, the formula is not really an 'endurance blend' but that doesn't mean you can't get 10-20k miles on it. You need to test it and see.
If it tests OK at 20k miles in that vehicle does that make it a 'high milage' oil? Or, is it just a typical run for a high-performance oil in that vehicle?
On a different note why do some say RL is not so much of a high milage oil?
Because due to the nature of the formula it has a higher TAN than normal so this leads to a lower TBN than we're used to seeing. Also, the formula is not really an 'endurance blend' but that doesn't mean you can't get 10-20k miles on it. You need to test it and see.
If it tests OK at 20k miles in that vehicle does that make it a 'high milage' oil? Or, is it just a typical run for a high-performance oil in that vehicle?
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OVERKILL
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Originally Posted By: JLDJ
Originally Posted By: nitehawk55
Wasted your $$$
That's your opinion, but I've always had great luck with Red Line products especially in my turbo hayabusa, and ZR1...Anal probably, but I don't mind paying a little more for something I feel is a little bettor product. Btw tundra is an 07 crewmax 5.7 driven 20-30 mile trips...On a different note why do some say RL is not so much of a high milage oil?
Because the TBN tends to not hold up like it does in the extended drain oils (M1 EP, AMSOIL...etc). So you'd be wise to get a UOA (with TBN and TAN) at 5,000 miles to see how much further you can safely take it.
Originally Posted By: nitehawk55
Wasted your $$$
That's your opinion, but I've always had great luck with Red Line products especially in my turbo hayabusa, and ZR1...Anal probably, but I don't mind paying a little more for something I feel is a little bettor product. Btw tundra is an 07 crewmax 5.7 driven 20-30 mile trips...On a different note why do some say RL is not so much of a high milage oil?
Because the TBN tends to not hold up like it does in the extended drain oils (M1 EP, AMSOIL...etc). So you'd be wise to get a UOA (with TBN and TAN) at 5,000 miles to see how much further you can safely take it.
Thanks for the quick replys...I rarely put over 10,000 miles on a vehicle before an oil and filter change once a year with another filter change at 6 months. With so few miles going to be put on the tundra that's why I'm going to push 2 years with it. And your right a UOA would be a good thing to do.
Not sure I would being using RL for that interval, but I know I wouldn't be using T6 when the engine is capable of two grades lower.
I'd run it for the full two years, but be sure to get it on the highway periodically to burn off any accumulated moisture.
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: JLDJ
Originally Posted By: nitehawk55
Wasted your $$$
That's your opinion, but I've always had great luck with Red Line products especially in my turbo hayabusa, and ZR1...Anal probably, but I don't mind paying a little more for something I feel is a little bettor product. Btw tundra is an 07 crewmax 5.7 driven 20-30 mile trips...On a different note why do some say RL is not so much of a high milage oil?
Because the TBN tends to not hold up like it does in the extended drain oils (M1 EP, AMSOIL...etc). So you'd be wise to get a UOA (with TBN and TAN) at 5,000 miles to see how much further you can safely take it.
+1 It was not designed to be an extended drain oil. Play it safe @ 5000 miles or 1 year pull a sample and have it tested. I would not blindly go 2 years under your driving conditions without having the oil checked.
Originally Posted By: JLDJ
Originally Posted By: nitehawk55
Wasted your $$$
That's your opinion, but I've always had great luck with Red Line products especially in my turbo hayabusa, and ZR1...Anal probably, but I don't mind paying a little more for something I feel is a little bettor product. Btw tundra is an 07 crewmax 5.7 driven 20-30 mile trips...On a different note why do some say RL is not so much of a high milage oil?
Because the TBN tends to not hold up like it does in the extended drain oils (M1 EP, AMSOIL...etc). So you'd be wise to get a UOA (with TBN and TAN) at 5,000 miles to see how much further you can safely take it.
+1 It was not designed to be an extended drain oil. Play it safe @ 5000 miles or 1 year pull a sample and have it tested. I would not blindly go 2 years under your driving conditions without having the oil checked.
Originally Posted By: martinq
Red Line is a premium product so expect to pay more for it but in the long run the price is about the same. If you can run the engine until the oil is up to temperature you'll reduce the acid that reduces the oil life. If you change out the oil 'when it's done' you'll also get more for your money but the analysis to find that out will also cost.
So the initial startup cost is high but once you know the life-expectancy you'll be able to reap the rewards.
No. No. No.
First off, bringing the oil up to operating temperature will burn off fuel and condensation not acid.
Second off, racing oil isn't traditionally an extended drain oil and shouldn't treated as such.
Third: there will be no financial gains from running RL compared to a quality conventional oil. We have dozens of UOA of conventional running 8-10K with a couple >10K OCI with excellent wear numbers.
Red Line is a premium product so expect to pay more for it but in the long run the price is about the same. If you can run the engine until the oil is up to temperature you'll reduce the acid that reduces the oil life. If you change out the oil 'when it's done' you'll also get more for your money but the analysis to find that out will also cost.
So the initial startup cost is high but once you know the life-expectancy you'll be able to reap the rewards.
No. No. No.
First off, bringing the oil up to operating temperature will burn off fuel and condensation not acid.
Second off, racing oil isn't traditionally an extended drain oil and shouldn't treated as such.
Third: there will be no financial gains from running RL compared to a quality conventional oil. We have dozens of UOA of conventional running 8-10K with a couple >10K OCI with excellent wear numbers.
Originally Posted By: Gabe
racing oil isn't traditionally an extended drain oil and shouldn't treated as such.
We're not discussing any 'racing' oils here.
racing oil isn't traditionally an extended drain oil and shouldn't treated as such.
We're not discussing any 'racing' oils here.
2 years max then change it.
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