Flushing a diff with Brake Kleen spray?
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I've done it but mostly incidentally from trying to get the gasket/ RTV surface clean. I would do it if I felt there was sludge in the case that would ruin my new RTV job before it cured. But my diffs have been clean inside.
I try and mop it up with paper towels and get it all out of there, it's kryptonite to the new oil.
I try and mop it up with paper towels and get it all out of there, it's kryptonite to the new oil.
Its a harmless thing to do, provided you give it time to fully evaporate (it dries VERY quickly, almost instantly if you blast it with compressed air).
Also, be sure and use pure tetrachoroethylene brake cleaner- eg. BraKleen RED can, not the green 'chlorine free' type. The chlorine-free types actually have much nastier solvents than the chlorinated type.
Also, be sure and use pure tetrachoroethylene brake cleaner- eg. BraKleen RED can, not the green 'chlorine free' type. The chlorine-free types actually have much nastier solvents than the chlorinated type.
Interesting thread. I asked the same question for manual transmissions and the comment were mostly not to do it: Thread on use of brake clean in manual tranny.
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Also, be sure and use pure tetrachoroethylene brake cleaner- eg. BraKleen RED can, not the green 'chlorine free' type. The chlorine-free types actually have much nastier solvents than the chlorinated type.
Agreed. I don't like the non-chlorinated stuff. It takes longer to evaporate too. And better yet, the chlorinated stuff is non-flammable.
Also, be sure and use pure tetrachoroethylene brake cleaner- eg. BraKleen RED can, not the green 'chlorine free' type. The chlorine-free types actually have much nastier solvents than the chlorinated type.
Agreed. I don't like the non-chlorinated stuff. It takes longer to evaporate too. And better yet, the chlorinated stuff is non-flammable.
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Not really a need. Honestly I wouldn't spray any of the gears or anything cause it will take the oil film off. Just use paper towels and soak some up at the bottom so it won't continue to drip and ruin your rtv job.
I do not see the need. Wipe as other have said and you are good to go.
In those vehicles that have a removable rear cover, I've always just wiped out the bottom of the pumpkin. None of my vehicles now have a differential with a cover, so I just drain when warm and refill...if I were getting super picky, I might try to flush using new gear oil, but I've never been that picky.
As a data point, every time I've driven the 4 Runner in salt water over the axles, I've changed the gear oil (front and rear differentials) as a precaution. I change it at 30,000 miles otherwise. It doesn't have covers on either diff, just drain and fill plugs. In every case, it has come out looking nearly new - so I don't think that you need to flush anything, just change it.
As a data point, every time I've driven the 4 Runner in salt water over the axles, I've changed the gear oil (front and rear differentials) as a precaution. I change it at 30,000 miles otherwise. It doesn't have covers on either diff, just drain and fill plugs. In every case, it has come out looking nearly new - so I don't think that you need to flush anything, just change it.
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I do it. Just make sure its dry before you button it up
If the present oil isn't contaminated...you're just changing it for good maintenance...then just drain & refill.
If there is contamination in the gear oil you'll need to clean it much better than just a squirt with a spray can.
If there is contamination in the gear oil you'll need to clean it much better than just a squirt with a spray can.
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Also, be sure and use pure tetrachoroethylene brake cleaner- eg. BraKleen RED can, not the green 'chlorine free' type. The chlorine-free types actually have much nastier solvents than the chlorinated type.
Can you amplify on this? I've been using the green can because I thought it was more environmentally-friendly, but if the red can is better for the car's parts, I'll go back to using it.
Also, be sure and use pure tetrachoroethylene brake cleaner- eg. BraKleen RED can, not the green 'chlorine free' type. The chlorine-free types actually have much nastier solvents than the chlorinated type.
Can you amplify on this? I've been using the green can because I thought it was more environmentally-friendly, but if the red can is better for the car's parts, I'll go back to using it.
I use whatever brake cleaning spray is on sale for this kind of job.
It helps me get the most gray slime of death out of there.
I have only done this when the cover can be removed from the differential, I would not try it on designs that only have a drain plug and fill plug.
It helps me get the most gray slime of death out of there.
I have only done this when the cover can be removed from the differential, I would not try it on designs that only have a drain plug and fill plug.
I wouldn't use paper towels, just the good ol' t-shirt.
Ah brought back memories of my 99 Crown Vic diff. It would milkshake M1 gear oil real fast like in 20,000 miles.
Use an old shirt and I like to use Carb/Choke cleaner. Cuts much better than brake cleaner and leaves no residue. Just don't soak the pinion bearing area to much.
Use an old shirt and I like to use Carb/Choke cleaner. Cuts much better than brake cleaner and leaves no residue. Just don't soak the pinion bearing area to much.
I don't like stuffing rags inside my rear diff. with a cover. too much lint. I do clean inside of the cover though, with brake cleaner.
I have done it a couple times with no ill effects. In the case of my truck, it can take a while for all the old dirty fluid to drip down and out of the housing, so a blast of brake cleaner speeds things up. I give it 10-15 minutes to dry to be safe, then button things back up. I also like being able to clearly see the gears and any abnormalities, and hosing everything off with brake cleaner helps with that.
I wouldn't wipe anything and risk introducing lint or other particles. Even though a diff will probably just chew lint up, I'd rather it not be there. I don't see wiping the gears being very effective anyway. The only wiping I do is with my finger if there's oil pooled up at the bottom of the housing.
I wouldn't wipe anything and risk introducing lint or other particles. Even though a diff will probably just chew lint up, I'd rather it not be there. I don't see wiping the gears being very effective anyway. The only wiping I do is with my finger if there's oil pooled up at the bottom of the housing.
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