Mobil 1 vs Liqui Moly

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Agreed, I am fully aware that there will not be much of a difference between good oils from the majors, but it's always interesting to try and find the best oil and filter.
In my opinion oil is more important when an engine is subject to severe service issues and as my Volvo has to suffer a lot of short trips and driver abuse I pay more attention to the oil than I would if it was in more normal use, this also got me interested in oil additives to see if there might be one available that could help offer some extra protection.
 
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I am in agreement with respect to the point about severe service, and that's why I'm using Mobil 1 0w-40 in my M5, as these engines have had rod bearing issues for some people and many examples I've seen are full of varnish. My logic was to use an oil that was not only approved for the application, but was recommended to me by somebody I hold in extremely high regard (Doug Hillary) and also carried the most difficult to obtain certs/approvals (Porsche, MB) which based on the argument I've presented in this thread, along with the product's availability made it a pretty easy choice.

I've since discovered (as per my UOA in the UOA section) that in the winter months, fuel dilution is a big issue with this car. I'm not following the OLM and am cutting my interval from 7,500 miles to 5,000 miles based on that. The oil held up incredibly well with respect to TBN (still at 7) but there was some significant viscosity loss from the fuel. If the engine (like most M5's) consumed oil, this would likely have been far less of an issue. But mine consumes 1L/8000Km, which is quite low for this series of BMW.

There's nothing wrong with the quest for finding the best lubricant for the application, though we certainly have different positions on how to come to that conclusion. However, I certainly feel the actions by the owner in determining a safe OCI length and generally how they treat the vehicle are the most significant factors in how long-lived and how healthy an engine is (with the use of an appropriate lubricant for the application being a given of course).

If we can agree on that, I think we are finally done here, LOL!
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One final point I would make about manufacturers oil approvals is that not many bother to update them. They do sometimes let the oil company they signed with change the specified oil, but they don't look at new oils or other oil companies, so what you get for older cars in oil approval terms is just the result of an old contract.
 
Originally Posted By: skyship
One final point I would make about manufacturers oil approvals is that not many bother to update them. They do sometimes let the oil company they signed with change the specified oil, but they don't look at new oils or other oil companies, so what you get for older cars in oil approval terms is just the result of an old contract.


I'm thinking more about oil spec's that are "current", like those seen on the Lubrizol relative performance chart. The Porsche spec's for example are very demanding and are met by a limited number of lubricants. I think that performance in that test is wholly relevant to how "good" an oil is.

Oh, and if you haven't seen the Porsche oil sump test rig, it is pretty neat!
 
Originally Posted By: skyship
My only agenda is to see if I can figure out the best oil for my engine and I've been in the marine and auto industry long enough to know that basing descisions on manufacturers approvals and advertising might not give me the best idea, which is why I like to look at actual results and unfortunately full engine inspection reports comparing different oils are not published by either the manufacturers or oil companies, which is why I look at UOA based studies and some of the ones I see have full particle analysis figures included and are very interesting, which is why I am going to try Castrol Edge and not Mobil 1 next.


Did anyone else notice that this is one sentence? I ran out of breath just reading it! It was the three "which is why"'s that enabled him to do it. Don't think I've ever seen that before, which is why I commented, which is why you are reading this, which is why you wish you could have the last 30 seconds of your life back.

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Originally Posted By: skyship
I love a good long ramble and will try to make the next one even longer.


Fixed it for you
 
This being my first post just to say that you've got a great forum and I've been learning a lot by reading info on this site. Thanks for that.

I also want to apologize for posting here, but I did not want to start a new topic since I'm in the same dilemma.

I've just bought Honda Fit(Jazz), GD1, 2007, CVT-7(AT), 1339cc, 61kw, twin spark, 8 valve engine, with 52000 miles on the clock, motor oil is Eneos 10w-40, stock filter.

Also, I installed LPG due to the fact that gas is $7/gallon here...

My typical driving is 70/30-city/highway, but when I go on highway than 600 mile drives are not unusual in summer.
Temperatures here in Croatia are from 14°F in winter to 90°F in summer on average(but can vary a lot).
I rarely go over 3500rpm(only on gas), average is 2000-2500rpm since it is AT.
Cold start is set on gas and switches to LPG when coolant reaches working temp.(I plan on installing engine oil temp. gauge so I can switch manually during winter)

So, dealer recommends Honda HFS 5W-40 for which I can't find any PDS, but from reading PDS's of lot of different oils I've come to 2 oil types that I prefer.

Mobil 1 New Life™ 0W-40 and Liqui Moly Synthoil Longtime SAE 0W-30

I'm slightly in favor of LM because of the colleague that has the identical car with LPG and over 125000(trouble free) miles on the clock with average fuel consumption which is 5-10 mpg better than mine.
Price of both is around $80/5liters (I can get M1 in half the price in one place but I'm afraid it's not genuine or old, although sold in regular shop)

Before oil change I plan to run Liqui Moly Motor Cleaner

I need some help to decide so the question is:

-which one would you recommend based on my info?

-should I do a VOA&UOA on this oil change since different manufacturer and grade have been used before?

-anything else I should do or try?

Sorry again if this is wrong thread to post this in.

Thanks
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Slaven:

Both oils are excellent, use whichever you can get cheapest
smile.gif



Thanks for the answer. What about VOA&UOA, should I skip this oil change?
 
Originally Posted By: slaven
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Slaven:

Both oils are excellent, use whichever you can get cheapest
smile.gif



Thanks for the answer. What about VOA&UOA, should I skip this oil change?



Run an OCI and then sample the 2nd one to start your trend if you want to do UOA's.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: slaven
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Slaven:

Both oils are excellent, use whichever you can get cheapest
smile.gif



Thanks for the answer. What about VOA&UOA, should I skip this oil change?



Run an OCI and then sample the 2nd one to start your trend if you want to do UOA's.


sounds like a plan, Thanks
 
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