Pentastar 3.6 8000 mile OCI

[widman]

I've got the same engine in my 2012 Grand Cherokee. For warranty they insist on an oil change at 1000 km (600 miles), although I was on the road and took it in at 1700 km.

After that they want 5000 km changes. I go by the manual that says when the computer says, or 12000 km, or 6 months (which when I remembered was 9).

I use a group II/IV semi-synthetic SN that I also sell to the dealer.

 

[NHHEMI]

Originally Posted By: Thermo1223
So let me get this straight....

You will pay all that money because you like the way the engineers designed the engine/transmission/body. Then completely ignore them on maintenance...because "you" know better. When in doubt RTFM.

LOL

Furthermore FF on engines is packed with assembly lube and there may be special break-in additives. The car maker doesn't need to tell us there is, especially if it is a trade secret. So dump your FF at 2,000...1,000....heck 500 miles. Let your belly get warm on the inside because you think you are doing yourself a favor. In reality you just did the oil refinery a favor and will continue to do so by believing myths propagated on the internet.


Wow. Kind of a rude response. It is the OP's vehicle so he can do what he wants. Also, very few car mfg's use special break in oils and/or additives. Chrysler does not do so. The FF on his engine was regular old SOPUS( Pennzoil or Shell )conventional oil.

 

[NHHEMI]

Originally Posted By: mauric3
Originally Posted By: randomhero439
Pennzoil Ultra 5w-30 every 8,000 miles or 9-10 months with a Purolator Synthetic or Bosch DistancePlus filter

If you decide you want to do conventional... try Pennzoil YB every 5300 miles or 5-6 months with a Purolator PureOne or Bosch Premium filter.

Mobil 1 is fine for 8k mile oil changes. I prefer Pennzoil.


AFAIK. there are no bosch distance+ or pureone filters for the pentastar engine.. I also have the same engine but its on our minivan.. i was able to only get purolator classic from amazon...

Hopefully there will be more filter options for the pentastar engine soon! there's not a lot of choices for it right now!


The PureOne is available now. $12.99 at Advance Auto Parts as one example. The Synthetic should be shortly I would think. Same basic part+ you just have to add the P( PureOne )and PS( Synthetic )for the part #'s.

Purolator Classic Filter = L36135
Purolator PureOne Filter = PL36135
Purolator Synthetic Filter = PSL36135

Bosch Premium Filter = 3335
Bosch Distance Plus Filter = D3335( not available yet that I could find )

Some others for you...

Mobil 1 Filter = P990
Wix Filter = 57526
Baldwin = P7492
Hastings = LF656

It is a new engine and a cartridge filter to boot( they always seem to take longer )so it will take a while I think for the aftermarket to catch up.

Nothing yet for

Amsoil
K&N
Royal Purple

 

[BillyTheKid]

I dump the FF too very early on cars I purchase. This Jeep I ran it to 4k because it's a lease and I am not keeping it. In the past, I have dumped the FF as early as 200-500 miles when oil was cheaper and not a negative thing happened. Not to mention the "frowned upon" playing with different weights even with early mileage, and using some as heavy as 20-50 on a man recommended 5-30 vehicle. Oh no, how hp bad am I...yet I'm still waiting for th engine to blow up, and [censored] it over 150k and still waiting.

To each their own really! Do what makes you feel better. As I've said before, I'm yet to see any negative issues with the experiments I have done.

 

[The_Captain]

I very seriously doubt that dumping the ff at 2200 miles did anything other than get rid of the contaminated "break in" oil. Fresh oil and a new filter always does an engine good. Your comment about assembly lube and other additives being removed too soon. Evidently you have never been around any professional engine builders. First thing they do is assemble the engine and run break in oil through and drain it "assembly lube and all". Then they put in a high quality oil and quality filter
My original statement was about the 8k OCI that Jeep was requesting. The other point was that 8k is asking a lot of a conventional oil.

 

[Kuato]

Originally Posted By: VNTS
Change it every 4K, use the 8K interval on their dime,use what you want when you do it and once your "free" cahnges are done use the M1 and change it yourself every 8K or whatever is needed for warranty.


AWEsome idea! They change at every multiple of 8k and never know the difference. Sweet.

 

[Danno]

Originally Posted By: DinoOil
Originally Posted By: Danno
OLM on my FIL 2011 Chev Equinox 2.4L had 57% oil life remaining at 7,600 kms and had never had the oil changed since purchased new 18 months ago. 100% short city trips with engine never fully warmed. Truck is never plugged in. Winter can get pretty nasty with temps at -30C today. FIL said "Onstar report said it was A-OK at 57%". Dipstick oil was a black mollasses like texture. Owner's manual says to change it at minimum annually but was never read by FIL. OLM taken with a big grain of salt here.


What you're essentially doing is loading up 5 out of 6 chambers in a revolver and putting it to your temple with your submissive faith and belief in whatever the he!! the OLM and On-"Smart" says...

You may have some luck for a while with what you're doing, but remember that after reading this forum won't allow you to play the "pleading ignorance" card. Good luck.

Sheeesh!!!!


FIL = Father In Law. Yup - you have it nailed with his approach. My cars get treated a lot better. Maybe too good .

 

[Thermo1223]

Originally Posted By: The_Captain
I very seriously doubt that dumping the ff at 2200 miles did anything other than get rid of the contaminated "break in" oil. Fresh oil and a new filter always does an engine good. Your comment about assembly lube and other additives being removed too soon. Evidently you have never been around any professional engine builders. First thing they do is assemble the engine and run break in oil through and drain it "assembly lube and all". Then they put in a high quality oil and quality filter
My original statement was about the 8k OCI that Jeep was requesting. The other point was that 8k is asking a lot of a conventional oil.


You don't know, you assume it does. I don't buy the [censored] that car makers only design an engine to last through their warranty period which is what a lot of people claim in regards to a factory maintenance schedule.

Fresh oil & filter does not "always" do an engine good especially when it is using the oil break-in for a purpose. It is true more frequent changes than neccessary can introduce more wear.

That is an apples to oranges comparison with professional engine builders. They are not subject to quality control standards, they do not build consumer vehicles. Their one mission is maximum horsepower & nothing more. Longevity is the furthest from their minds. I've known a couple personally and they were extremely pleased if the engines lived for 3 years, more if not looking at track duty.

8k is not asking a lot of conventional in the right conditions. It all depends on how it is used, that determines OCI not gut feelings or dirty looking oil.

What is it with people and this "ambiguous rudeness". The OP asked for opinions if he doesn't like he need not listen. It doesn't effect him or me. To claim I am being rude because mine differs, well sorry. We can't all think alike. He posted it on an open public forum, so he is going to get an open public response.

It is my opinion that people waste far more oil than they have to on gut feelings or perceived notions that they are doing better, especially in regards to OCI & FF. The fact that Jiffy Lubes still exist just reaffirms that opinion. Follow the factory schedule, whether severe or not and worry less.

 

[Stubb]

If anyone is interested, I posted my UOA of the factory fill on my 2012 Charger 3.6L that I changed when the OLM indicated, 4.2K. It went off at 3.7 K but that was a Sunday evening so I had to wait until the following Saturday. It was well before the 8K mark and it was not driven hard. It's a daily driver that does a lot of highway time. I think from that report you can draw your own conclusions about when to do it, especially on the first change. I changed again at 8K but posting was such a pain I may not do it again! I will run my current fill to 16K to test the 8K interval. Hopefully the UOA posting process is modernized by then!

 

[dave1251]

Originally Posted By: askani79705
Run MC semi syn it should do 8k no problem.


Then any gf-5 rated conventional it will be no problem. Phillips semi-syn=conventional gf-5.