Strange issue with '95 Integra LS - Stalling, etc.

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Found out what the issue was. Both of the IACVs are faulty. One is leaking coolant, and one is non-operational. There is an entire laundry list of other issues with the car, so it's probably time to sell it and move on. Cut my losses, I suppose... I got an estimate of nearly $4,000 in other repairs.
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Originally Posted By: ThirdeYe
Found out what the issue was. Both of the IACVs are faulty. One is leaking coolant, and one is non-operational. There is an entire laundry list of other issues with the car, so it's probably time to sell it and move on. Cut my losses, I suppose... I got an estimate of nearly $4,000 in other repairs.
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What cost that much? I can't think of anything other than an engine or tranny rebuild to cost that much. Most likely a laundry list of things you can DIY
 
Driveshaft is leaking
Front brake pads/rotors need to be replaced
Valves need to be adjusted
Rear brake caliper seized, rear pads/rotors need to be replaced
Power steering hose is leaking
Oil pan gasket is leaking
Both IACVs need to be replaced
Timing belt/Water pump is due
Spark plugs need to be replaced

I think there were a few more things, but I can't remember what they were right now.
 
I get the feeling that you are tired of the car or the garage wants to buy it from you.

Most of the item on that list are regular maintenance items which have been postponed because you don't really care them to be done but are now using them as an excuse to dump the car.

Be honest with yourself. The only thing it really "needs" is the cleaning of IACVs to bring it back to the condition before this stalling saga. Everything else would have been fixed along the way if you wanted to keep the car.

It is obvious that you don't want to maintain the car and are itching to get another one.

One thing that you can be sure about BITOG is that that any ill-logic presented will be called upon.
 
If the car really has all those leaks, big engine maintainance items, brake issues, high miles and old etc, then it sounds pretty shot to me. Japanese cars can be maintenance intensive and fall all apart when they get old and high miles as the best of them.
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
I get the feeling that you are tired of the car or the garage wants to buy it from you.

Most of the item on that list are regular maintenance items which have been postponed because you don't really care them to be done but are now using them as an excuse to dump the car.

Be honest with yourself. The only thing it really "needs" is the cleaning of IACVs to bring it back to the condition before this stalling saga. Everything else would have been fixed along the way if you wanted to keep the car.

It is obvious that you don't want to maintain the car and are itching to get another one.

One thing that you can be sure about BITOG is that that any ill-logic presented will be called upon.


Hehehe. Good post.
Op. dump the car and start over with one you like.
 
Originally Posted By: ThirdeYe
Driveshaft is leaking
Front brake pads/rotors need to be replaced
Valves need to be adjusted
Rear brake caliper seized, rear pads/rotors need to be replaced
Power steering hose is leaking
Oil pan gasket is leaking
Both IACVs need to be replaced
Timing belt/Water pump is due
Spark plugs need to be replaced

I think there were a few more things, but I can't remember what they were right now.


Valve adjustment is a $6 feeler gauge + 15-20 mins of your time.

Spark plug is $10 from parts store for NGK plugs.

Front pads can be DIY, rotor may need a drill to get the holding screw out and you really don't need the screws back on anyways. $50 for cheap pads for $100 for expensive pads.

Rear caliper could be DIY if you spend one weekend, but if you don't want to the rebuild caliper is around $50-70, probably $100 loaded with pads.

You can ignore the oil pan gasket or spend 3 hours +/- taking off the exhaust pipe (the 2-1 Y pipe, I think it is also called A pipe) down under, and DIY.

Timing belt and water pump is $200 labor, $100-200 parts depends on after market or OEM.

Drive shaft is probably about $200 ea part and labor.

Power steering hose is about $30 part in part store, if you have a mechanic do it is probably $150?

As far as I know there should be only 1 IACV, but those are likely $50 in rockauto or $100 OEM? should be easy to access it yourself.

So, your $4000 repair is probably only about $500-1000 depends on how you approach it. I'd ignore the oil pan gasket, go to mechanic for the drive shaft and timing belt / water pump, do the plugs, front pads, rear rebuild caliper and pads, valve adjustment yourself, and the rest like power steering pump and IACV is up to you.
 
I'm with Vikas...

It's easier to care if the car is still nice cosmetically. In your defense, ThirdEye, I don't envy anyone keeping a car going through all those winters and all that salt.

Also wanted to say that almost 200k on an Integra is not so shabby...
 
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Believe it or not, I used to absolutely love this car. I still like it. It's been very well maintained, and I have all of the records since the vehicle was new. I just don't enjoy it stalling out on me, and I don't enjoy the large amounts of rust. I've tried adjusting the valves myself before, but I couldn't get the lock-nuts loose without feeling like I was gonna break something. I replaced the plugs a little over a year ago, but they claimed they were bad already again. With the oil pan gasket, I'll probably switch to a HM oil and see if it helps any. It's helped a few other cars I've used it in that leaked a bit of oil. I might be able to replace the PS hose myself. I have some spare power steering fluid as well, so I can top it off if it gets low. I don't think it's a drastic leak, as I haven't noticed any large spots on the garage floor.

I wouldn't mind upgrading to another car, but my financial situation hasn't been the best lately. Half of my paycheck goes directly to my student loans, and I found out that I'm going to be losing my job in a few months, so I've been trying to get by with the bare minimum on maintenance, hoping it would make it until I was able to afford a newer vehicle.

I knew I'd have to get the timing belt/valves adjusted/etc., but now with all of the other issues that seem to have sprung up around the same time, it hardly seems worth it. Especially with the vehicle only being worth around $1,500-$2,000 or so (according to KBB). Being broke is no fun!
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p.s., I've never said my car was junk.

I think Tosh summed up my feelings pretty well in knowing that it would be easier to maintain if it looked better cosmetically. With the raccoon that cracked my front bumper, and someone that rear-ended me in a parking lot, and the rust, it's hard to justify spending a lot of money on it. When I first bought the car, there was a little bit of rust on a few spots on the car. I spent over $2,000 getting it treated and repainted. It came back a few months later.

On another note, I did find someone who can work on it on the side, who just worked on an Integra for a friend of mine, so I may be able to get the essentials (IACV, Brakes, etc.) fixed for less money than the dealership quoted me. The final print-out they gave me was 8 pages long, totaling over $6,300 in potential repairs.

I've always had issues with the brakes on this car. This will be the 3rd time that the rear brakes have needed replacement since they were done in 2005. The calipers always tend to stick/seize on it, wearing them down prematurely. The front brakes were last done in '05 and seemed to stop fine. No noise, etc., so I wasn't tipped off that they were bad yet.

I've known about the oil pan gasket leak for a while, but it wasn't really bad enough to leave spots. Removing the rusty exhaust from the catalytic converter doesn't seem like a fun time to me, and I've been quoted around $200-400 to have it replaced.

I've spent over $1,000 getting almost the entire front suspension replaced, and the rear control arms replaced. I guess it's at the age where everything is catching up to it, regardless of how I've maintained it. They also mentioned that some of my bushings are now starting to crack as well.

In the past few years, I've replaced 1 or 2 wheel speed sensors, multiple suspension parts, rear brakes/calipers/etc., master brake cylinder, main fuel relay, tires a year ago, cam plug, valve cover gasket, spark plugs, transmission fluid around 5 times with Amsoil ATF, valves adjusted, power steering fluid at least 5-10 times, 2 PCV valves, etc.

Saying that I neglect the car isn't necessarily true. Things just seem to keep going wrong, no matter how many times I fix or replace them.

In short, I'm going to get the biggest needs replaced now, and keep using the vehicle until I'm able to afford something better.
 
I think the rust and road salt is what causes a lot of your grieves.

A lot of what you said in your list of repair in the past few years are really normal maintenance, that can be delayed or neglected a bit (i.e. ATF, PCV, power steering fluid, valve adjustment are not that big of a deal if you extend them for longer).

I think for now you should focus on the IACV (maybe a junkyard or ebay used one), rear brakes, and timing belt with aftermarket parts (rockauto?), and ignore the rest till you have the money.

Plugs may be telling you something if they are bad so soon, like knocking or a bad timing, that is caused by something like timing belt slipping, that may be the cause of your "stalling".

"Download" a HELM manual and follow their trouble shooting guide, this book saves me so much money when I discover almost all the problems I had with my car.
 
Once the car crosses over a certain threshold, what it is worth on the open market is pretty much immaterial. You have to figure out how much it will cost for you to get another good running car with known history and with high probability that it will not give you much trouble. In majority of cases, when similar analysis is conducted, one finds the devil you know is lot better than the devil you don't know i.e. fixing your own car makes more sense than buying another one and fixing that. Obviously, this is not true if you are going to make a big jump i.e. get rid of this and purchase a new one. And it might even make more sense to take the $2K that you might have to put it in this car and use it as a down payment on the new vehicle along with whatever trade-in (essentially zero!) this will give you. But then you are looking at $$$ per month for many years.

Send email to EricTheCarGuy. His brother has an Integra and Eric was a dealer technician at Acura. He runs a forum with the same name. Plead for help there. Also you need to get your hands on the factory service manual. The two IACV business does not sound right to me.
 
I used to have a copy of the Helm's manual, but I seem to have lost it in the past couple of years. I have a few copies of some pages still printed out, though, for things like spark plugs, valve adjustment, distributor, ATF, etc.

The dual IACVs seemed weird to me as well, I've always thought there was just one, unless there's two valves inside the assembly... not sure, I've never taken it off.

Regarding the condition of the plugs, I haven't pulled them since I put them in back in 2011, so I'm not sure what they look like other than them telling me they were "rounded off". Not sure what that means. I think they have somewhere between 10,000-15,000 miles on them. I do wonder if the stalling (whether it's caused by the IACV, valve adjustment, etc.) and running rough could've also worn them out. Those aren't a biggie, as I've replaced them a couple of times myself and I can usually do it in 30 minutes or so.

I came to the conclusion of fixing up this car, as I weighed my options and figured getting another used car (and potentially someone else's problems), I'd spend less getting mine fixed. I love my car, when it's actually running and driving right. It's just right for me, and it used to get decent gas mileage. I guess I got a bit fed up with the constant problems and the sticker shock of everything that's wrong with it... not all of which I was aware of.

The salt probably does indeed do a number on my car here in MI, as mentioned. The rust is getting progressively worse, but not unbearable yet.
 
Originally Posted By: ThirdeYe
The dual IACVs seemed weird to me as well

I'm not sure where this "dual IACV" thing is coming from. You've got ONE. No Honda has two.

You do have a Fast Idle Thermo Valve (FITV), which supplies extra air when the engine is below operating temperature.
VTEC engines (B18C1) have an Intake Air Bypass (IAB) system, but this does not introduce additional air into the intake.
 
Originally Posted By: ThirdeYe
The salt probably does indeed do a number on my car here in MI, as mentioned. The rust is getting progressively worse, but not unbearable yet.


I think you might have some ground or wiring problem and that might explain some stalling. I think a sunday trip to a junkyard to get an IACV would be a good start. I am not sure about your local one, but PickNPull should let you return things for credit if it isn't IACV or a bad one, then you can try other stuff or other parts till it is right. It is used, but it is cheap enough as diagnostic if you have the time but not the money.
 
I had the opportunity to drive my mother's 2011 Malibu for the past week while my car sat in the garage. She needed the car today, so I took the Integra to work. It really made me realize just how much I enjoy my car and the way it feels. The Malibu, while nice, feels lifeless and numb compared to the way my Integra makes me feel. I can't wait to get it fixed up, I just hope I can afford it. It did misfire on me a few times while stopped at traffic lights, but it didn't actually stall on me. Granted, it was a short trip and if it had gotten to full operating temperature, I'm sure it would've stalled. For now I'm just going to concentrate on the FITV/IACV (perhaps that's what they meant by 2 valves, thanks Tegger) and progressively get other things done like the brakes, leaks, etc.

Thanks for the patience everyone. It's been a tough time financially for me, but I hope things will work out in the end.
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Vikas -- Thanks for the PM/link.
 
^Yep.
After driving the g/f's Lexus RX 450h all weekend, I felt way more attached to my '00 Civic. Having a stick shift and a throttle cable to actually connect you to the car is something I will miss.
 
I took my car in to an independent mechanic yesterday and they worked on it today. I told them that the Acura dealer told me it was the IACV/FITV, but they determined it was actually the O2 sensor going bad. They claimed it wasn't looping. I'm not very familiar with O2 sensors, so I'm not sure what that means. They took it on a test drive and said it was fine, but time will tell. $150 would certainly be a lot better than the ~$1000 the dealership quoted me for the valves. I'm picking it up today after work. Fingers crossed! I miss my car. Sure, it's not fast, but I love driving it anyways.
 
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