2004 Dodge Intrepid 2.7L Oil leak(s)

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A neighbor that parks near me has been asking if I will work on his 2004 Dodge Intrepid 2.7L w/170k

Problem: Profuse external leaking from (what appears to be) both valve cover gaskets. So bad the engine smokes, requires newspapers and cardboard on the floor to catch the oil.

Background: Engine had a the HG's replaced and something about "fixing the sludge" a year ago for substantial cost. Almost right away the engine started leaking externally to the point now that something needs to me done. HM oil cant stop this.

I normally don't charge, but this engine is a mess. The preparation and cleaning up pooled oil will be at least an hour by itself. What should I charge as labor for (Owner supplies his own parts):

- Replace upper intake plenum gasket. (fair amount of prep required)
- Replace both valve cover gaskets. (extensive prep required)
- Clean the TB, IAC, lower intake ports (if possible), PCV, etc.

Also, are there any other surprises or tricks like RTV on specific areas of the VC ?
 
Ugh Chrysler 2.7L

Replace the oil pan gasket as well?

I work on cars out of my garage as a side job for friends. I usually charge $20/hr for repairs. I made $60 the other day installing a set of lowering springs for a friend
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Yeah, its not the sludge in it, its the sludge on it. Horrible! So bad I'd be nervous opening it up until I clean it for an hour or so. I was thinking $100 for that list. Wonder how that compares to a licensed mechanic.

Oil pan gasket, not sure. Don't even want to put my face under there, get a drop of burnt oil in the eyes
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Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
but this engine is a mess.


Everyone who owns the 6 cylinder 2.7L is saying the same thing. They have a notorious problem for sludging. All the work you've detailed shouldn't be terrifically hard to accomplish but it all depends on what you find when you start working on it. There shouldn't be RTV though, no, the only place I've run across RTV is the trans pan on those cars (as usual).
 
2.7 yuck I had one. Check to see if the PCV valve assembly is working correctly. They will clogged up.
Synthetic is a must. I used PP and changed it every 3000 miles.I did not think that a waste of $.
 
always check gasket mating surface for flatness or nicks, grooves, valve cover(s) for warpage or uneven mating surface.

Q.
 
I've heard the engine issues were related to the PCV valve, I wonder if changing it each oil change at 3 or 5K would get around the sludging.

Good luck with this.
 
Hope the water pump doesnt go and leak coolant into the oil.Its internal.That would finish it off.
 
MY daughter had a POS 2004 Sebring with the 2.7. Fortunately, the car was totaled last year.

Her's started leaking oil profusely. PAY ATTENTION: It is very common for the oil pressure sensor to go bad. A bad sensor leaks oil everywhere. It is located on the back (firewall side) of the engine under a shield. Make sure you check this before doing anything else. It's an easy DIY fix for about $35.

I, too, thought I had to replace the oil pan gasket or valve cover gasket. Google will back up my story.

Best of luck!
 
I'm looking forward to the challenge. Love sludgers. It has one thing going for it, a V6 mounted normal in the engine compartment so I can get to everything. Normal meaning like the good old days not the sideways passenger facing V6 like most are today.

But the battery more than makes up for it. Buried somewhere with nothing but weird connectors showing. Everything's crammed in and full of oil and dirt. Think I'll spare you guys pics.
 
Hmmmmmm 2.7 Chrysler.

I recommend jacking up the dome light and replacing everything underneath.

...and I'm a Mopar owner and defender.

Originally Posted By: Cujobob
I've heard the engine issues were related to the PCV valve, I wonder if changing it each oil change at 3 or 5K would get around the sludging.

Good luck with this.


I was led to understand that it was a problem with the water pump design.

I can tell you the water pump is a serious ordeal
 
The PVC system was much to blame for the sludge problems up until about 2003/04, when they re-designed it.

The water pump is also an issue. As it begins to go bad and leak (bearings), the coolant can be directed into the crankcase.

When my daughter's water pump went bad (impeller broke apart), a UOA indicated no coolant in the oil. BUT..........the new, improved water pump design has a different timing chain pulley, so a new water pump also requires an entire new timing chain kit. Fortunately, I am friends with a MOPAR mechanic that does work on the side for about $40/hour. He has been my hero many times and I take care of him well.

Several mechanics I talked to about this engine said they prefer not to work on them due to all the headaches with customer come backs.
 
HG and pump done last year. New expansion tank. Coolant looks good. "Yellow", similar to PGL. I suspect whoever did the HG dropped the ball putting it back together. But all the leaking has the oil reasonably clean. Will know more when I open it up. Looks very challenging. Jam packed with strange hoses, wires, weird looking upper intake plenum, etc.
 
Originally Posted By: Miller88
You do NOT want to touch that car! As soon as it sludges up and grenades, you're going to be the one responsible.







+1, agree 100%. Life is too short to work on a pos like that.
 
i think $500 is reasonable, but have him sign off that you are not responsible for the vehicle's form or function after a proper repair is performed.
 
I was walking through a salvage yard about a year ago, and I came upon an Intrepid that was probably about the same year as the one in question. The car was beautiful! I walked around the car and the interior and exterior were both perfect. The tires were good, the paint was good, everything that I could see about it made it look like a perfect car. Then I popped the hood and I saw that the engine was partially tore apart. I noticed that it was the 2.7L engine and one of the timing chains had broke. I chuckled that if the sludge didn't do you in, one of the complex timing chains would. I closed the hood and moved on.
I go by the saying that "No good deed goes unpunished", and if you work on your neighbors car and something goes wrong with it, your neighbor will hate you and probably see you in court.
 
I'm doing the job for $150 Sunday. looks like a few hours. 2 of it cleaning the mating surfaces. Only point of concern are these strange studs protruding from the center of the VC. Weird, serve no obvious purpose I can see other than leaking profusely. There are no gaskets for them. Just studs coming up from the head to the middle of the VC with a nut on top. The service manual gives a warning not to forget these (admission these are strange and unusual) because if you pry without loosening, you can crack the valve cover. Interesting because he paid a fortune last year for the 2 head gaskets and waterpump. Did that mechanic forget these studs? I'm going to find out.

I also found out the main reason these engines sludge up. It starts with neglect. But not the oil. The cooling system. Instead of the waterpump weeping externally and showing clues, it weeps into the block..and the oil.. thats right, there is no barrier between the coolant and the oil at the waterpump other than the waterpump seal.
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But thats all done so the oil itself looks clean. When I open this beast up will know more.
 
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