DEXCOOL NIGHTMARE !!!!

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Just bought a 99 Jimmy the heater blew cold i flushed the heater core and it worked for a couple days, did it again with works toliet bowl cleaner worked for a little longer. What the heck can i use to flush the whole system? Its going to have to be a pretty harsh chemical to work with this problem.I know about zerex super cleaner but dont know where to buy it what if i use muratic acid.What are the main ingredients in the zerex that does the cleaning? I have used prestone flush before and to me its useless unless your car is new.I need something thats going to work.
 
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Don't get carried away or you will be buying a new radiator and new heater core.

I've seen that done too many times.

And why throw the name Dexcool in there? No evidence posted to support name calling like that.
 
I work at a shop and see it all the time a couple cars a week atleast.Its doing the same thing on a 04 we are working on.The dexcool has gotten into spaces and its coming out and plugging the heater core again and again.The jimmy has a new radiator and thermostat replaced by the PO cause it had no or very little heat.
 
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Why would you put toilet bowl cleaner in your radiator to save a few dollars on a flush when it could really mess up your cooling system...

Prestone SUPER flush has amazed me before with how much ____ it has cleaned out of one of my cars cooling systems
 
I poured it onto the heater core for a very short time and flushed it with water.I do this from experience the prestone will do NOTHING for the dexcool sludge.This usually works very well sometimes you have to do it twice.
 
I heard about and used Cascade powdered dish washing detergent. Cleans baked on macaroni in one cycle, non-toxic, doesn't suds. Flush well before and after. Make sure it's the powder, not the gel.
Someone else suggested compressed air on the heater inlet hose, but that could be a little risky if there is a serious clog.
 
Originally Posted By: widman
Don't get carried away or you will be buying a new radiator and new heater core.

I've seen that done too many times.

And why throw the name Dexcool in there? No evidence posted to support name calling like that.


And new head gasket.

You can cause the radiator, heater core, and head gasket to leak if you use too strong of a flush.

If after a mild flush the heater core still is clogged you might be better off to replace it instead of trying to get something strong enough to desolve the crud that has been built up in the passages of the heater core. There is a good chance that if you found something strong enough it would also cause a leak somewhere.

BTW, if the heater core is clogged, the radiator probably is also clogged and should also be replaced.

ALSO, some vehicles have a valve on the coolant flow path of the heater core. Those valves are usually vacuum operated, and if so will have a vacuum line going to them. If your vehicle has one of these valves you have to figure out if it is operating properly. If the valve is not opening when it should, then you will not have any hot coolant flowing through the heater core.
 
I use compressed air also I will try cascade I heard back in the day they used a certain kind of soap with a lot of phosphates I believe?? But I think they changed the formula of the product to be safer on the enviroment if I am correct.If anyone knows please chime in.I will flush it and it will be good for a few days the last time i used the toliet bowl cleaner it was hot enough to toast marshmellows.But i ran some cleaner through the injectors and was running the heck out of it and the dexcool plugged the heater core back up.
 
Originally Posted By: PhillyJoe
I heard about and used Cascade powdered dish washing detergent. Cleans baked on macaroni in one cycle, non-toxic, doesn't suds. Flush well before and after. Make sure it's the powder, not the gel.
Someone else suggested compressed air on the heater inlet hose, but that could be a little risky if there is a serious clog.


Not so much if you regulate the air down to 20psi or lower. If a cooling system component can't hold against that it's ready to go anyway.

As far as Cascade goes, it isn't what is used to be. Cascade is phosphate free nowadays so you might as well be using Ajax hand dishwashing detergent. If anything, the air is probably the best way to get rid of the Dexcrud. The glycol that's already in the heater core provides some lubricity and the air provides the pressure. Pressurised water should work as well as air if you have means to regulate pressure. If that doesn't break a path through it you're pretty much down to putting in a new core.
 
Ignore the dexcool lovers. I work at a Radiator shop and we have not found any product that will remove the sticky gooey sludge that dexcool leaves when its left in too long. The only way we have found is to get the system clean is a replacement engine,hoses,radiator etc. If anybody knows of a way to remove that mess I'm all ears.
 
I realize all this i asked for help not to hear what not to do.I have done this many many times.The thing is it would plug up a new heater core also.
 
Thanks Chris I was wondering if anyone with any sense would reply.I am going to try to use a harsh cleaner in the whole system I dont have much other choice.
 
Be careful, lots of great ways to create a catastrophic heater core burst.
Nothing says "uh oh" like having a heater core go while traveling down the road and filling your cabin with extremely smelly steam.

There is the reverse heater core flush. Where you hook up a garden hose to the disconnected heater core and blow out all the crud in reverse.
It is easier on some vehicles than others due to access to the core and the lines leading to and from it.
I wouldn't do it unless you can easily get to the appropriate lines.

There is also using "Shout Advanced: Heavy duty-stains" in your system. It is spot treatment for clothes. You can pick up a 8.7 fluid oz bottle at Wally World. It should do a 12 quart system easily.
I've seen guys use it effectively, but never used it myself. Such chemicals scare me as I have no idea what they will do long term.
It is a very concentrated soap and anti-foaming agent.
The guys who I've seen use the Shout did it in combination with several complete system flushes with Water so that they got it all out.

Personally, I've used 2 bottles of Prestone's Super Flush followed by several flushes of water with good success.
For preventative maintenance I've done several short runs and drain and fills to make sure I got all the crud out making sure I am near the perfect 50-50 mix of that brand of antifreeze that I chose.

Currently I'm doing a drain and fill every 2 years just to make sure everything stays in great condition.
I am constantly amazed with all the stuff left behind by the sand cast parts. There is a reason that over the road trucks have coolant filters.
 
did they use a radiator sealant product?

The reason I ask is that I've personally witnessed GM heater cores clogged up with leak sealer.

It's usually J and N chassis cars. I don't recall seeing that on an S10/Blazer. But I've shown customers heater cores completely plugged with a product like Alumaseal and had them insist that they never added any or only used one tube
 
So what cleaner has phosphates?? I use a air blower and a rag wrapped around it. I dont go crazy with the air just to push it thru thats why the toliet bowl cleaner works it is as you know some sort of acid.It works like new for a few days and then the sludge will come back and same thing.Its really not that big a deal taking the 2 heater hoses off and doing it takes about 15 mins.Just hoped someone knew what to use to get the whole system clean.I think muratic acid would work maybe a gallon of it and run for a day or two.
 
That was an application that dexcool did not work too well on, cap on radiator, iron heads, low coolant level etc.

The following is GM's recommended elaborate proceedure for flushing severely corrode cooling systems back in the day. The problem is I don't think the referenced cleaner is still available. It was a two part system using oxalic acid and then a neutralizer. GM has a different Heavy Duty cooling system cleaner while probably not as strong as that one may be stronger than most over the counter cleaners. Anyway you can get some ideas from the procedure-using a Prestone T-flush, using a garden hose hooked up to your washing machine hot water outlet, etc.




Rust in Cooling System, Heater Inoperative, Blows Cold Air, Engine Overheats (Flush Cooling System) #99-06-02-012D
Rust in Cooling System, Heater Inoperative, Blows Cold Air, Engine Overheats (Flush Cooling System)
1996-2000 Chevrolet and GMC S/T Models (Blazer, Jimmy, Sonoma, S10 Pickup)

1998-2000 GMC Envoy

1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada

with 4.3L V6 Engine (VINs W, X -- RPOs L35, LF6)

This bulletin is being revised to include additional model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 99-06-02-012C (Section 06 -- Engine).

Condition
Some customers may comment that the heater is inoperative, blows cold air, engine may exhibit an overheat condition or the coolant reservoir has rust in it.

Cause
Vehicles equipped with DEX-COOL® coolant, which may have been operated for extended periods of time with a low coolant level, usually in excess of 32,000 km (20,000 mi), may be susceptible to the formation of a rust-like material in the cooling system.

Correction
Flush the cooling system using the repair procedures that follow.

Parts and equipment required/suggested for this correction are listed below.

1 each *Prestone® Flush and Fill Kit #AF-KITP U.S. (#00050 in Canada). This kit can be obtained from your local parts supplier and can be used on all vehicles repaired under this procedure. Save it after performing the repair, as it is reusable.
1 each *Prestone® Heavy Duty Cooling System Cleaner, GM P/N 12346500 - 1 per vehicle. This cleaner is in powder form and contains a neutralizer. Do not substitute other cleaners. The diluted cleaners that are available in liquid form are not recommended for this repair.
5.7 L (6 qt) of 100% (non-diluted) DEX-COOL® coolant (GM Spec 6277M).
1 each new thermostat, GM P/N 12563335.
2 each new radiator cap, GM P/N 15075565.
1 each *Prestone® yellow funnel. This funnel can also be obtained from your local parts supplier. It fits snugly into the radiator opening for an easy fill and is reusable.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of such products. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any responsibility for the products from this firm or for any such items which may be available from other sources.


Important
Verify the fuel level in the fuel tank. The fuel level should be above ¼ tank before this procedure is started.

As a precaution, verify the oil level in the crankcase. Add the amount required to bring the oil level into the normal range.

It is recommended the vehicle be placed in a position so that the following are available:

A sanitary sewer -- not a storm drain, etc
A monoxivent system (if the outside temperature is less than 10°C (50°F)).
Hot running water


Notice
Due to the complexity of these procedures, the following repair steps must be strictly adhered to in order to achieve the intended results. Any deviation or substitution may result in sub-standard cleaning/flushing results or system damage.


Diagnostic Procedure
Install the Scan Tool. This will allow monitoring of the coolant temperature throughout the procedure.

Caution
As long as there is pressure in the cooling system, the temperature can be considerably higher than the boiling temperature of the solution in the radiator without causing the solution to boil. Removal of the radiator cap while the engine is hot and pressure is high will cause the solution to boil instantaneously - possibly with explosive force - spewing the solution over the engine, fenders and the person removing the cap. Under some conditions, the engine coolant is combustible.



Important
The installation of a NEW radiator cap at the beginning of this procedure and the second new cap at the end of the repair procedure is necessary in order for the correct pressure to be achieved and for the repair to be completed successfully.
The radiator cap is NOT a good indicator of the general condition of the cooling system. Typically the underside of the radiator cap will exhibit a greater amount of contamination than the rest of the system. It is important to evaluate the condition of the cooling system by checking the following before beginning the repair procedure:

Remove the radiator cap. Install a new radiator cap, GM P/N 15075565. A properly operating radiator cap is essential for this procedure to work properly. Be sure to wipe off all radiator cap sealing surfaces prior to installation.
Start the engine.
Using a flashlight or lead light, look into the radiator. From the right side of the vehicle, peer into the radiator toward the left side of the vehicle. Observe the top three rows (or tubes) of the radiator. (It may be necessary to drain off some of the coolant to see the top three rows of the radiator). If it appears the coolant is able to flow through the third row down from the top, the vehicle should be repaired using Procedure A. If it appears the coolant is NOT able to flow through the third row down from the top, then the vehicle should be repaired using Procedure B.
Stop the engine.
Repair Procedure A & B

Important
If available, use coolant exchanger Pro-Fill 42-75100-KM, Power Flush 211-07601/DEX (available through the GM Dealer Equipment program), or equivalent to evacuate the system of coolant. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for exchanging used coolant with new coolant. However, for this procedure, use water in place of new coolant. Be sure to exchange 1½ times the cooling system capacity of the vehicle with water. This will ensure that only water remains within the cooling system. Once the coolant has been displaced with water, drain the water from the radiator.
If you are located within an area which regulates the disposal of used coolant (check with your local water treatment facility), all coolant and coolant/water mixture must be captured until the water runs clear of coolant. Use a clean 208 L (55 gal) drum or similar to contain the waste coolant. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 00-06-02-006 for information on coolant recycling and removal services.

Drain and properly dispose of the coolant.

Caution
Any obstructions in the hoses to or from the coolant recovery bottle may cause over-pressurization of the cooling system. This over-pressurization could result in serious personal injury.


Inspect the following hoses in order to assure there are no obstructions and the coolant is able to flow freely:
The hose to the coolant recovery bottle.
The relief hose from the coolant recovery bottle.
Disconnect both coolant hoses to the heater core from the engine.
Back flush the heater core for 5 minutes after clear water is present. Pressurized water not to exceed 345 Kpa (50 psi), may be used.
Reinstall the heater return hose to the engine.
Install the radiator cap and properly tighten.
Install the "T" from the flush and fill kit to a 25.4 cm (10 in) piece of 19 mm (¾ in) heater hose. Tighten the clamp.
Install the hose to the engine. Tighten the clamp.
Install the other end of the "T" in the heater core inlet hose. Tighten the clamp.
Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the radiator. Properly position the hose, so the accessory drive belt or any pulley/belt cannot touch the hose.
If you used coolant exchange equipment, disconnect it.
Attach a garden hose to the "T" of the flush and fill kit. Turn on the water and back flush the cooling system for at least two minutes after the water runs clear.
Start the engine and continue back flushing the cooling system for five additional minutes.
Turn the engine "OFF".
Turn the water "OFF".
Re-attach the upper radiator hose to the radiator.
Open the radiator drain and drain all water from the radiator.
Remove the lower left water pump crossover bolt. This allows lowering the water level in the left side of the engine.
After the water stops running from the water pump bolt hole, reinstall the bolt.
Close the radiator drain.
Mix the Prestone® Heavy Duty Cooling System Cleaner, GM P/N 12346500, in approximately 3 L (3 qt) of warm water. Pour the mixture into the radiator. Top off the system with plain water and reinstall the radiator cap.
Run the engine at 1600 to 1800 RPM with the air conditioning in the maximum cool position. To achieve the 1600 to 1800 RPM, place a dime between the closed throttle stop and the screw. This screw should never be adjusted, under any circumstance. Its only purpose is to keep the throttle plate from sticking in the bore when the throttle is slammed shut. It is not a minimum idle (RPM) control adjustment screw.

Important
It is imperative that all air pockets have been removed from the cooling system in order for the cleaning procedure to be effective.

Service Procedure A
For Service Procedure A, the cleaner should be left in the system for three hours (after normal operating temperature of the cooling system has been achieved). Normal operating temperature is when the coolant temperature stabilizes around 98°C (200°F). The best results are obtained when the coolant temperature is between 98°C (200°F) and 110°C (230°F). DO NOT EXCEED 113°C (235°F). Use the Scan Tool to determine when this point has been reached. When this temperature has been reached, start the clock. Periodically (every twenty minutes or so), monitor the coolant temperature and engine during the three hour run time. A half hour has been built into the actual labor time to cover for the time spent monitoring the engine, etc.

In order to achieve a constant temperature of 98°C (200°F) to 110°C (230°F) during this procedure, maintain the idle speed, turn on the A/C or partially close the hood.

Service Procedure B
For Service Procedure B, the cleaner should be left in the system for two and a half hours (after normal operating temperature of the cooling system has been achieved). Normal operating temperature is when the coolant temperature stabilizes around 98°C (200°F). The best results are obtained when the coolant temperature is between 98°C (200°F) and 110°C (230°F). DO NOT EXCEED 113°C (235°F). Use the Scan Tool to determine when this point has been reached. When this temperature has been reached, start the clock. Periodically (every twenty minutes or so), monitor the coolant temperature and engine during the two and a half hour run time. A half hour has been built into the actual labor time to cover for the time spent monitoring the engine, etc.

In order to achieve a constant temperature of 98°C (200°F) to 110°C (230°F) during this procedure, maintain the idle speed, turn on the A/C or partially close the hood.



Important
The vehicle should not be left idling outdoors when the ambient temperature is below 10°C (50°F). The flushing procedure relies on heat as a catalyst in order to be effective. Ambient temperatures below 10°C (50°F) do not allow sufficient cycling of the thermostat to effectively clean the cooling system.


Turn off the engine.
Remove the dime from the closed throttle stop screw. Do NOT remove the radiator cap. Following the procedure listed below will assist you in draining the cooling system thoroughly.
Place a drain pan under the radiator drain hose.

Caution
The cooling system and coolant are hot and under pressure. Loosen only the radiator drain until the pressure has been released from the cooling system and follow the procedures exactly in this bulletin, using normal safety precautions to avoid being injured by the hot coolant mixture.


Loosen the radiator drain. Drain approximately 1 L (1 qt) of liquid from the system.
After the pressure has been released from the cooling system, slowly loosen the radiator cap to the safety stop. Do not remove the cap (This releases the spring pressure on the secondary seal while retaining the primary seal to the top of the filler neck and will allow the coolant reservoir to be evacuated).
When the coolant reservoir is empty, re-tighten the radiator cap fully.
Remove the cap from the flush and fill "T". This will allow the coolant to be siphoned from the heater core and the engine block.
When the water has stopped coming out of the radiator drain hose, close the radiator drain. Do not place the cap on the "T".
Using Prestone® Heavy Duty Cooling System Cleaner, GM P/N 12346500, mix the neutralizer (from the bottom of the can) with approximately 3 L (3 qt) of warm (shower temperature) water.

Notice
Do not put cold water into a hot engine as engine damage may occur.

Under no circumstances should the neutralizer be left in the cooling system for any longer than ten minutes once the vehicle has reached operating temperature (thermostat open). The neutralizer is corrosive to aluminum and will damage system components if it is left in the cooling system for longer than ten minutes.


Pour the mixture from the step above into the radiator.
Completely refill the cooling system with warm to hot water through the "T". When the radiator is full, install the radiator cap to the safety catch. Continue to fill until the overflow reservoir is filled to the hot line on the reservoir.
Remove the fill hose and install the cap on the "T" and the radiator fully.

Important
It is imperative that all air pockets have been removed in order for the procedure to be effective.


Start the engine. After engine speed stabilizes, reinstall the dime between the closed throttle stop and the screw. With the A/C on, bring the cooling system back to normal operating temperature and follow the directions on the can.
Turn off the engine.
Remove the dime from the closed throttle stop and the screw.

Caution
As long as there is pressure in the cooling system, the temperature can be considerably higher than the boiling temperature of the solution in the radiator without causing the solution to boil. Removal of the radiator cap while the engine is hot and pressure is high will cause the solution to boil instantaneously - possibly with explosive force - spewing the solution over the engine, fenders and the person removing the cap.


Drain the cooling system, following the procedure listed in Step 24 above.
Do not close the radiator drain. Leave it open.
Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the radiator. Properly position the hose, so the accessory drive belt or any pulley/belt cannot touch the hose.
Attach a garden hose to the "T" of the flush and fill kit. Turn on the water and back flush the cooling system for at least two minutes after the water runs clear.
Start the engine and continue back flushing the cooling system for five additional minutes.
Turn the engine "OFF".
Turn the water "OFF".
Close the radiator drain.

Important
If the repair is a Procedure A, go to Step 40.

If the repair is a Procedure B, remove the radiator and have it recorded and steam clean the end tanks. After reinstalling the radiator, continue to Step 40.


Remove the air cleaner housing and tube assembly from the throttle body.
Remove the two nuts holding the throttle cable bracket to the throttle body and position the bracket and the cables out of the way.
Remove the thermostat.
Remove the previously installed flush kit "T" and hose. Save for future use on other vehicles.
Install the heater inlet hose to the intake manifold and secure with the original spring clamp.
Inspect the thermostat opening and cover for foreign material. Clean if necessary.
Remove the left lower water pump crossover bolt to drain the left side of the block and the left cylinder head.
Install sealant to the bolt threads, using GM P/N 12346004 (Canada GM P/N 10953480), or equivalent and reinstall the water pump crossover bolt. Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 41 N·m (30 lb ft).

If available, use coolant exchanger Pro-Fill, Power Flush, or equivalent to fill the system with 50/50 DEX-COOL® coolant. If a coolant exchanger is not available, proceed to the next step now. Follow the manufacturer&s instructions for system fill/coolant exchange. If you are using coolant exchange equipment, you will need to install a new thermostat, GM P/N 12563335 and top off the system with clean drinkable water prior to exchanging. After exchanging, install the upper radiator hose and clean out the coolant recovery bottle. Proceed to Step 56.
Pour 5.6784 L (6 qts) of 100% (not pre-mixed) DEX-COOL® coolant into a clean container.
Using a clean funnel, pour as much of the 100% DEX-COOL® coolant that you can into the engine through the thermostat opening.
Install a new thermostat, GM P/N 12563335. Tighten
Tighten the bolt to the specified torque of 19 N·m (14 lb ft).

Hold the upper radiator hose in the straight up position and pour 0.473 L (1 pint) of the 100% DEX-COOL® coolant into the hose.
Install the upper radiator hose to the radiator and properly position the clamp.
Flush the coolant recovery bottle thoroughly.
Complete the fill of the cooling system with the balance of the 5.7 L (6 qt) of 100% DEX-COOL® coolant and top off with plain water. If the water is not drinkable, do not use. Water must be clean and fresh.

Important
The second new radiator cap must be installed at this point of the procedure. It is possible that small contaminants may have become lodged in portions of the first cap during the cleaning procedure.


Clean the radiator cap sealing surfaces on the radiator. Install the radiator cap, GM P/N 15075565.

Important
It is imperative that all air pockets have been removed in order for the cooling system to function properly.


Run the engine to operating temperature with the air conditioning in the maximum cool position for ten minutes.

Caution
As long as there is pressure in the cooling system, the temperature can be considerably higher than the boiling temperature of the solution in the radiator without causing the solution to boil. Removal of the radiator cap while the engine is hot and pressure is high will cause the solution to boil instantaneously - possibly with explosive force - spewing the solution over the engine, fenders and the person removing the cap. Under some conditions, the engine coolant is combustible.


Turn the engine "OFF" and let it cool.
Check the coolant concentration for a 50/50 mix, using refractometer J 26568 (Centigrade scale) or J 23688 (Fahrenheit scale). Follow the manufacturer's directions for using the coolant tester. Unless your coolant tester has a provision for temperature correction, it is imperative that the correct coolant temperature is achieved when testing the coolant. If the coolant is warmer or cooler, the reading may be incorrect.
Top off the radiator and fill the coolant recovery bottle to 2.54 cm (1 in) above the full hot mark on the coolant reservoir. Add the appropriate coolant mixture to come to a 50/50 mix of the DEX-COOL® coolant.

Important
To assure intended system performance, inform the customer that the cooling system MUST be maintained in a completely full condition.
 
No sealer is present that I know of The radiator was replaced and the thermostat cause of no or luke warm heat.Thats what made me think it HAD to be the heater core.I always flush the heater core both ways when I do it.So what does the SHOUT have that makes it work.I dont think it will work on the DEX SLUDGE !!!
 
Most people here have not seen a real dexcool disaster. It's like a thick gooey grease. Once its in the bottom of the water jackets it wont come out unless you hot tank the engine.
 
Ah, see, here's a question for you:

Is the bad nasty stuff that clogs your heater a hard granular substance (Dexcrud) or is it more of a greasy or gelatinous slime?

If it's proper Dexcrud, then the procedure mechanicx provided should work if you can somehow still find a can of the Prestone cleaner, otherwise you're back to pressure.

If it's slime it could be grease from a leaking radiator or head gasket or it could be sealer. Repeated flushing will get rid of sealer slime. If it's grease slime form a radiator or engine leak you can temporarily fix it with detergent or repair the problem properly by removing the source of oil contamination and then flushing with detergent.
 
Yeah tell me about it Chris GM sure did mess people over with that [censored].And then all the service bulletins and no recalls lol.The one guy with the GM fix the cleaner was a acid that why the neutralizer was needed.I think muratic acid and then a couple flushes might help.
 
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