What is lube control?
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Need? No. Want? Yes.
Lube Control fights oil oxidation breakdown, allowing the oil to due it's job: lubricate. All factors being equal, you'd see a lower "insolubles" level in an UOA when used as per it's directions.
I've been using it since last year. It's VERY cheap all in all, and can help many oils, including good synths, do a better job and last longer. There was someone who was going to go 10K on dino with LC and post a UOA. I wonder if that's in progress or not...
Auto-Rx is the thing to use to clean a sludge-ball engine. Essentially, Lube Control is used to keep an engine clean, Auto-RX is used to make it clean.
My thinking observation is this: after you use Auto-Rx to clean an engine, continue with LC for the duration that you own the car. You'll probably never need Auto-Rx again in that engine in my opinion. However, most won't follow the regimen like most of us BITOG'ers, so Auto-Rx may be warranted every 30-50K to keep things VERY clean. Especially in Toyota's 3.0L, Dodge's 2.7L, etc...
[ May 14, 2005, 05:11 PM: Message edited by: ToyotaNSaturn ]
Lube Control fights oil oxidation breakdown, allowing the oil to due it's job: lubricate. All factors being equal, you'd see a lower "insolubles" level in an UOA when used as per it's directions.
I've been using it since last year. It's VERY cheap all in all, and can help many oils, including good synths, do a better job and last longer. There was someone who was going to go 10K on dino with LC and post a UOA. I wonder if that's in progress or not...
Auto-Rx is the thing to use to clean a sludge-ball engine. Essentially, Lube Control is used to keep an engine clean, Auto-RX is used to make it clean.
My thinking observation is this: after you use Auto-Rx to clean an engine, continue with LC for the duration that you own the car. You'll probably never need Auto-Rx again in that engine in my opinion. However, most won't follow the regimen like most of us BITOG'ers, so Auto-Rx may be warranted every 30-50K to keep things VERY clean. Especially in Toyota's 3.0L, Dodge's 2.7L, etc...
[ May 14, 2005, 05:11 PM: Message edited by: ToyotaNSaturn ]
Yep, everything ToyotaNSaturn said is correct. Also,quote:
Originally posted by ToyotaNSaturn:
Need? No. Want? Yes.
Lube Control fights oil oxidation breakdown, allowing the oil to due it's job: lubricate. All factors being equal, you'd see a lower "insolubles" level in an UOA when used as per it's directions.
I've been using it since last year. It's VERY cheap all in all, and can help many oils, including good synths, do a better job and last longer. There was someone who was going to go 10K on dino with LC and post a UOA. I wonder if that's in progress or not...
Auto-Rx is the thing to use to clean a sludge-ball engine. Essentially, Lube Control is used to keep an engine clean, Auto-RX is used to make it clean.
My thinking observation is this: after you use Auto-Rx to clean an engine, continue with LC for the duration that you own the car. You'll probably never need Auto-Rx again in that engine in my opinion. However, most won't follow the regimen like most of us BITOG'ers, so Auto-Rx may be warranted every 30-50K to keep things VERY clean. Especially in Toyota's 3.0L, Dodge's 2.7L, etc...
Wow, that was fast!
Me too!
Yes but my manual states that you shouldn't use any oil additives and that they may void your warranty. Also, if a synthetic is great basestock oil w/ a robust additive package (like GC) why would you need this? Especially in a new engine. What exactly IS lube control? Is it a synthetic ingredient?quote:
Originally posted by ToyotaNSaturn:
Need? No. Want? Yes.
Lube Control fights oil oxidation breakdown, allowing the oil to due it's job: lubricate. All factors being equal, you'd see a lower "insolubles" level in an UOA when used as per it's directions.
I've been using it since last year. It's VERY cheap all in all, and can help many oils, including good synths, do a better job and last longer. There was someone who was going to go 10K on dino with LC and post a UOA. I wonder if that's in progress or not...
Auto-Rx is the thing to use to clean a sludge-ball engine. Essentially, Lube Control is used to keep an engine clean, Auto-RX is used to make it clean.
My thinking observation is this: after you use Auto-Rx to clean an engine, continue with LC for the duration that you own the car. You'll probably never need Auto-Rx again in that engine in my opinion. However, most won't follow the regimen like most of us BITOG'ers, so Auto-Rx may be warranted every 30-50K to keep things VERY clean. Especially in Toyota's 3.0L, Dodge's 2.7L, etc...
I understand that. If you feel that you need follow that, then that's fine. I really can't blame them for writing that as there are a lot of useless additives on the market.
To keep the oil doing it's job...lubricating the engine while keeping the junk at bay. The gunk that oils accumlate (namely insolubles) is lessened by LC's formulation. Thus, allowing you take the oil to MUCH longer drains. I feel that GC in many applications can go 15K with LC, though few ever do go that long.
Do owner's manuals allow for 15K? Some do, most don't. Either way, the engine is cleaner and deposit formuation is reduced to near zero levels.
I don't know what the chemistry is for LC. I just know it works in both my vehicles!
"Is this something you would need w/ a high quality synthetic? "
Good questions and equally good advice so far.
YES LC is very helpful in ANY oil to date. Including syns and GC. Controls oxidation, is polar,reduces localized heating,cleans, disperses carbon to a level that it can either be filtered or converted to a lubricant and or burned in combustion ( I don't understand this effect either and was not paid to test for it). I see greatly reduced emissions and in oil analysis reduced oxidation and nitration ( components of insolubles).
I am under secrecy agreements with this company nor do I completely understand all the chemistry in LC and FP anyway.
I do know it is NOT synthetic, but the final product is NOT equal to its parts. LC has been described by Molakule as a NEAR ester and he is a chemist/physicist with lots of experience in this field.
Good questions and equally good advice so far.
YES LC is very helpful in ANY oil to date. Including syns and GC. Controls oxidation, is polar,reduces localized heating,cleans, disperses carbon to a level that it can either be filtered or converted to a lubricant and or burned in combustion ( I don't understand this effect either and was not paid to test for it). I see greatly reduced emissions and in oil analysis reduced oxidation and nitration ( components of insolubles).
I am under secrecy agreements with this company nor do I completely understand all the chemistry in LC and FP anyway.
I do know it is NOT synthetic, but the final product is NOT equal to its parts. LC has been described by Molakule as a NEAR ester and he is a chemist/physicist with lots of experience in this field.
I have been using LC&FP in my New Nissan for about a year & 1/2 now. Without naming who I read that when using AMSOIL to cutback or stop using these products. I am one who expects results and was a bit dissapointed by my first 1 year OCI. I followed everything to the letter even on the short OCI during breakin.So I went from S2K to The Amsoil 10/30 and re check at 3750. I am not saying these products caused these higher wear #'ers just the fact I got them will make me stop for a change. I will see in about 6 months if the car improves. Yes we can say it still is breaking in at 16500 but looking at other engines I expect better.
posted ny Mud -
What is a unscientific observation?
posted by Ranger
10,000 mile UOA with LC
It appears that LC performed just as Lube Control said it would.
railball,
Did you run the Amsoil without the LC additive?
I have a few UOAs with Amsoil 0W-30 & 5W-30 (ASL), and plan to do few more UOAs with the LC additive to see the difference in how the oil performs, then make a judgement on the benefits of LC.
Bill
Below is the first UOA of petroleum oil (Havoline) with LC for 10,000 miles.
10,000 mile UOA with LC
It appears that LC performed just as Lube Control said it would.
railball,
Did you run the Amsoil without the LC additive?
I have a few UOAs with Amsoil 0W-30 & 5W-30 (ASL), and plan to do few more UOAs with the LC additive to see the difference in how the oil performs, then make a judgement on the benefits of LC.
Bill
Very unscientific observation. I started using LC as a 6-8 oz additive about a year ago at each fresh oil change. This is for both dino and synthetic oils, OCI's at 4-5K miles. I started using it because I could see some varnish (no sludge) discoloration on the rocker arms, looking in the oil fill hole. This was on 3 of our 5 vehicles.
In every case, the varnish has disappeared and the metal is now very clean. I figure that if this is happening on these surfaces, it's also happening inside.
I also noticed that fresh oil did darken faster when I first started using LC. Don't really notice that anymore.
I'm sold on the stuff.
In every case, the varnish has disappeared and the metal is now very clean. I figure that if this is happening on these surfaces, it's also happening inside.
I also noticed that fresh oil did darken faster when I first started using LC. Don't really notice that anymore.
I'm sold on the stuff.
Mud,
Sorry, my boo boo, I should have figured that one out
Now I got it
Sorry, my boo boo, I should have figured that one out
Now I got it
No problemo - this site has probably the best group of knowledgeable folks that I have ever seen. I'm not in that league, so I figured I'd better preface my particular LC "analysis" with a disclaimer!
Stuff is great though - I really like the long term gentle cleaning effect of using it.
Stuff is great though - I really like the long term gentle cleaning effect of using it.
Another happy LC-20 customer after over two years, four vehicles (some more than 25-yrs old with oem, untouched engines), and more than 60,000 miles of use.
Be sure to get FUEL POWER FP-60, too.
I start a new [to me] vehicle with a 12-16 oz dose of LC and 2-3 ozs every 700-1000 miles until oil change. At that time I soak the piston crowns (search on "MolaSoak"), and, after changing spark plugs, run some Auto-Rx per directions.
Then, a change to a synthetic oil (REDLINE, lately), and a low-restriction high-quality filter. And, 6-ozs of LC-20 at same time, then as above.
See my second UOA (JEEP 242) from two years ago.
Be sure to get FUEL POWER FP-60, too.
I start a new [to me] vehicle with a 12-16 oz dose of LC and 2-3 ozs every 700-1000 miles until oil change. At that time I soak the piston crowns (search on "MolaSoak"), and, after changing spark plugs, run some Auto-Rx per directions.
Then, a change to a synthetic oil (REDLINE, lately), and a low-restriction high-quality filter. And, 6-ozs of LC-20 at same time, then as above.
See my second UOA (JEEP 242) from two years ago.
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