A quick break from politic.......Cold Bluing Twist

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Jan 23, 2008
Messages
438
Location
Ohio
My friend had a disaster .22 Savage semi-auto, left in a cellar to rust. Was gramps and he wanted to keep it. Normally, I would have stripped the metal and rust and polished the barrel and attempt a cold blue. Cold Bluing has always been marginal for me even when following directions to a T.

After scouring the web I combined a bunch of tips and it worked fairly well. I removed the rust leaving the old bluing on. Then reblued over the old blue.

Rust Removal:
*I soaked in ATF, kerosene and 1/2 ounce of oil of wintergreen, in a PVC Pipe with caps on the end for several days
*I used oil of wintergreen (wear gloves and mask as it is absorbed through the skin) with 0000 steel wool.

Bluing:
*Wore nitrile gloves and continualy rinsed them in the alcohol
*Soaked the barrel in 99% alcohol for a couple hours
*wiped the barrel down with acetone
*Heated the barrel with a torch to just past "warm"
*Applied the bluing
*Hit the bluing with the torch after it dried 5 minutes, and apply more bluing
*Repeated this 6 times, hit it with the torch and doused it in liquid wrench penetrating oil
*wiped it down with gun oil

Of note:
*The barrel was 75 % rust specked with two bad corrosion areas through the blu, came out OK for not polishng the barrel
*I used the cheap Bichwood Casey as I was too impatient for my Brownell's order to get here
*No rinsing between applications
*I polished with Steel wool before the second application of heating and bluing, but the blue seemed to build up/hold up better if I hit it with a torch without polishing
*I think the "torched no rinse/polish" approach may work on a polished barrel, and but I am excited to try it for difficult touch ups.
*I have pics, but how do you enter them from your computer?
 
Only cold blue I ever had that held up over time was Vans Gun Blue and only for touch ups.

I got sick of them for bigger pieces and learned how to hot water blue. Used Mark Lee and it is as or more durable than the hot dip method, but is only capable of a satin old school looking Winchester blue they used on the old nickel steel Winchesters. I have a Beretta 1951 and a WW1 era Frommer Stop 1912 pistol I have done this to and they look quite nice.
 
Using cold blue is like painting a car...its all in the prep work. Sounds like it turned out nice. Cant wait to see the pics!
laugh.gif
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top